bent full length sizing stem Lee 7.5x55 swiss

some years ago, I bought on the forum a used die kit for 7.5x55.
I neglected to check them the time of arrival. And now I see that
the stem (not sure what it is called, to be honest), is bent and out of center.

I checked on lee site, and found, I think the part that I need

https://leeprecision.com/fl-size-die...5-swiss-parts/

it is part number SE2024, it seems.

But when I click on the link it brings me to
https://leeprecision.com/ez-x-exp-7.62x39.307.html

Does it mean, that these two things are interchangeable in these 2 calibers, or there is a mistake on the site?

Also what's is the correct name for this 'stem' thingy, and is it replaceable with other parts manufactures, or this kind of stuff Lee specific (asking for more general education, not because I plan to mix and match stuff).

And finally, one more general question (or let me know if I should post it separately): is there a check list that I can use to check over quickly my dies or, if buy, used dies -- for any 'usual' problems? This way I can do better and periodic inspection rather then to wait till I start using them.

It is listed as:
LEE SE2024 EzXExp 7.62x39 .307 DIAMETER

Steel factory replacement pin for use with the Lee 7.62x39 and 7.5x55 full length sizing die.

I have always called it a Neck Expander Mandrel

I would recommend that you disassemble new (or new to you) dies, clean, lubricate and inspect them.
Run a piece or two of brass through them and check the result.

Hello worker,

Lee does use the same item on many different applications.

AntiqueSledMan.

I have bent a few over the years. The die manufacturer replaced them from what I remember.

I managed to bend the stem on a Lee Universal depriming die (Berdan primer).......now THAT takes some doing! I ordered two.........one for replacement and one for a backup.

That rod is a decapping stem. It may or may not have a neck expander plug (or mandrel) but it's primary function is to hold the pin that punches spent caps out.

Most stems get bent when they're set too deep and hit the case web when the ram is raised; it's hard to bend a Lee decapper in normal use. Note Lee's un-threaded collet nut that holds the stem in place is expected to allow it to slip and be pushed up rather than being bent; that's a good idea but a lot of people think it's all wrong; not!

Buying and pricing used dies: I have bought several used and even damaged dies over the years and restored them to good use. Most serious damage will be from rust and that's pretty easy to see. Rust on the outside is generally irrelevant and can usually be removed easily enough with a steel wire brush. Internal rust in a sizer die is more significant; a light rust coating can be easy to remove but deep rust means the steel surface itself is gone and no amount of polishing can put it back.

Bent decap stems in used dies are fairly common but off-center pins ARE common and rarely matter in use (off center pins will NOT pull necks out of line, the stems just aren't that rigid). Bent stems can be corrected or replaced but you should factor in the cost of new parts when haggling over price.

Most other external damage will be plier marks on places that shouldn't have been pliered; that's just cosmetic and doesn't hurt the function but it does down grade what I'll pay for used dies.

My pricing guide is easy; if used dies appear perfect they probably are and they're worth about half of new retail price; any more than that puts them too close to buying new dies from one of our on-line sellers. Obviously damaged dies get no more than half of the normal used price from me unless the damage is slight AND if I really want the dies.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 1hole

Note Lee's un-threaded collet nut that holds the stem in place is expected to allow it to slip and be pushed up rather than being bent; that's a good idea but a lot of people think it's all wrong; not!

---

I can't tell you how many of those blasted Lee stems I've had to tackweld to the nut because they slip for a nothing. Usually pull loose when pulling the expander up through the neck. Good idea? NOT!!!!!

Main reason I won't buy Lee sizer dies anymore unless there's no alternative.

It's hard to set the tension right on the decapping pin. Start loose then tighten it up a little.

I've broken a few tips on lee decapping pins - Berdan primers, stuff in the case, case not all the way into the shell holder ( I have a pretty good stock of them)

when I accumulate a few broken lee items I mail them to Lee and they replace them free of charge. IF you order them, the part is free (for the first one) they will ding you shipping and handling so pick up a spare sprue plate or? with the order to offset the shipping/handling cost :)

I have found that if you remove the collet nut and stem. Clean them of all oil and reassemble dry they hold just fine.
Leo

The Lee decapper pin setup is fantastic when used right. The RCBS threaded style is super fragile, but works. The Hornady style, bumpy for lack of a better term, is no fun at all.

The Lee is basically a collet. If it slips, tighten it, that simple. Once tightened properly, I've never had one slip until something jammed it. Usually if they bend, something caused it to go in crooked. Either a shell is crooked, or the flash hole was way off center, or some other problem.

Before you buy one, email lee and say you bent one. There is a very good chance they will ship you one immediately free of charge.

My first reloading experience was 7.5 Swiss ...
I learned the hard way what a Berdan Primed case was!
I called Lee and they replaced the stem for free , sent a new one in the mail while I tried to find 7.5 Swiss boxer primed cases .
Give Lee a call or Email ... they will probably help you out.

As far as mixing and matching die parts ... a few will exchange but by and large most parts will not .
They are not all the same and makers even change their dies over the years .
Another thing I try to do ... use the die makers shell holders! Every once in a while swapping shell holders throws the die settings out of whack and causes problems ... but not every time but watch out for it if you are having a problem and can't find the cause ... the shell holder might be the fly in the ointment .
Gary

The Brit 303 and the 7.62/54 R are also the same. If you want the 54R you have to order the Brit 303 one. Why lee does this I don’t know. They are the same but when you put in for a stem on Lee’s site for the 54r it comes up with the Brit 303 one making you thank you are getting the wrong one.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by megasupermagnum

The Lee decapper pin setup is fantastic when used right. The RCBS threaded style is super fragile, but works.

---

Correct for both Lee and conventional decapper pin systems. No offense intended but nothing works well if it's misadjusted and/or otherwise used improperly.

Quote:

---

The Lee is basically a collet. If it slips, tighten it, that simple. Once tightened properly, I've never had one slip until something jammed it.

---

Correct again.

Ref. securing that un-threaded decap stem & collet, I can't imagine welding what a couple of wrenches, properly used, can and obviously has been used by tens of thousands of us happy Lee die users for decades. But ... maybe we just don't quite know what we're doing?? ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 1hole

Ref. securing that un-threaded decap stem & collet, I can't imagine welding what a couple of wrenches, properly used, can and obviously has been used by tens of thousands of us happy Lee die users for decades. But ... maybe we just don't quite know what we're doing?? ;)

---

Well after 55 years in mechanicking, machine tool building, and manufacturing, I guess I do. Large wrenches twisted to the point of stripping the flats on the nut don't do it. Welding does. Case closed.

Yes, I'm offended.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gwpercle

... makers even change their dies over the years.

---

Die makers have different designs for many things such as lock rings, de-cap/expanders, and crimping but they all adhere to the same SAAMI specifications for the internals of FL sizers; it would be foolish if they did not and our die makers aren't fools!

Quote:

---

Another thing I try to do ... use the die makers shell holders! Every once in a while swapping shell holders throws the die settings out of whack and causes problems ...

---

The internals of standard shell holder dimensions are designed to match the specified internals of standard dies, specifically that means the maximum deck height of our shell holders will be 1/8th inch/.0125". Of course all manufactured parts, including dies and shell holders, must have a tolerance range of at least a few thousants of an inch. IF, in the luck of the draw, you get a minimum sizer and a maximum shell holder, there can be a marked difference between a sizer and holder that go the other way. Thus, the normal variation between "identical" manufactured parts on any assembly line, not the maker as such, would be why you experienced the difference you refer to.

I ALWAYS adjust my bottle-neck FL sizer dies (with any maker's shell holder) before use and that takes care of any small differences.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 1hole

Ref. securing that un-threaded decap stem & collet, I can't imagine welding what a couple of wrenches, properly used, can and obviously has been used by tens of thousands of us happy Lee die users for decades. But ... maybe we just don't quite know what we're doing?? ;)

---

You're offended? Do you mean that mentioning your welding solution to the Lee stem slipping in it's collet is different from the rest of the reloading world is offensive to you and we really don't know what we're doing? If so, that's okay, I'm not easily offended.

But, as much as you obviously know, I still suspect that if you properly degrease Lee's collet and stem - as mentioned above - your well trained wrenches would probably work as well as lessor folk's wrenches do. ??

If he wants to weld the pin to the nut, more power to him. That works, and is still replaceable if needed, although with a new nut as well.

I know I've said it many times before. I take Lee products out of the box, read the directions, and put them to use. I can't really say that about another brand until you get into high end stuff. I've never degreased the Lee mandrel pin. I take it out of the box, and if it slips, I tighten it. I counted the other day, I think I have 14 Lee die sets in rifle calibers with an expander mandrel. I've never had to do anything to them, and once tight, never slip. Its not like I'm about to strip the things out either. I just use the old german torque spec, goodntite.