Gas Check seating - effects of smaller punch on gas check

OK....so here it is.
I use a Star for sizing and lubing, and I recently cast up some 2500 Lee Group Buy 6 cavity 135gr GC 38 bullets. I bought this on a whim many years ago.
They have been sitting in a container unsized since then. So now finally I get to these.
Very nice little bullet. I am going to load them below maximum with WW296 for a nice 357 load.
First, as a Hensley & Gibbs casting snob :) , I have to say the Lee 6 cavity mould (the only one I own) is easy to use and DOES produce a lot of bullets in a short time. The weight is not bad either. I must say that my opinion of Lee moulds changed after that. I just wonder how it would hold up to casting, say, 10,000+ bullets. With H&G you can NEVER wear one out.
So to the sizing and lubing: apparently my top punch is a 30 caliber flat punch. So....when I seat the gas check it kind of has this nice little ridge around the edge. Visually it looks just fine. The check still seems to seat very nicely and tight.
I am wondering if this makes a difference in the accuracy of the bullet. I don't shoot competitively and my guns will always shoot far better than I can, so my question is one of curiosity.
Your thoughts?

What does this bullet look like
(Flat nose of any significant dimension?)

As to Lee holding up... if you don't abuse/slam the block/pins together (i.e., close by hand) ... a Loooonng time.

If you think seating them that way will improve accuracy ... CHOOT EM' ...

Myself , after going to so much trouble to make good boolits ... I would get a 35 cal. flat punch.
You can always make one by filling a nose cavity with J-B Weld and sanding it flat.
I just don't see where wonky seated gas checks will aid accuracy .

My Dad would tell me ..." If somethig's worth doing ...then it's worth doing right . "
Gary

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gwpercle

If you think seating them that way will improve accuracy ... CHOOT EM' ...
Myself , after going to so much trouble to make good boolits ... I would get a 35 cal. flat punch.
You can always make one by filling a nose cavity with J-B Weld and sanding it flat.
I just don't see where wonky seated gas checks will aid accuracy .
My Dad would tell me ..." If somethig's worth doing ...then it's worth doing right . "
Gary

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I didn't think it would help one way or the other. I guess my question was WOULD it hurt?
I really never noticed before.
I did order a 35 cal top punch from Lathesmith.
So I guess it is a moot point.

There is over 100 years of research demonstrating the nose changes have very little effect on accuracy, base issues have a huge impact on accuracy. Don't worry over much about nose issues unless shooting for super accuracy.

FWIW I think he’s sizing nose first.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS

SNIP...

I am going to load them below maximum with WW296 for a nice 357 load.

Your thoughts?

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My thoughts...
I can only state the obvious, which you probably already know, but will mention it for anyone else reading this.

If close inspection shows any irregularities, especially crooked GC (crimped higher on one side, than the other) or the mark from your top punch (ridge) is not centered. Then you could get some instability when the boolits leaves the barrel. Now if shot in a pistol at typical pistol range distances, I can't imagine an accuracy lose, but if shot in a rifle at distances beyond 75 yds...well maybe?

Also, I can't imagine a Star sizer (with threaded top punch) would make the irregularities, but I mention these irregularities, because I have see them when sizing and crimping a GC in a reloading press using push through dies. I was doing 243 boolits and GCs, but all I had was a 223 punch...which when mounted in a shell holder, it had a bit of wobble.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FISH4BUGS

I didn't think it would help one way or the other. I guess my question was WOULD it hurt?
I really never noticed before.
I did order a 35 cal top punch from Lathesmith.
So I guess it is a moot point.

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There's really only one way to tell if your seating method will help or hurt ...
Seat some with the 30 cal. punch ... then seat some with the 35 cal. punch ... and CHOOT EM' .
I'm betting the checks seated with the 35 cal. punch will be slightly more accurate ...
a wonky base ridge can't be helpfull ... But Who Knows ... maybe you have just stumbled on a accuracy improving trick no else has thought of ... Let us know how the testing goes .
In my mind boat-tailed bullets shouldn't be accurate ???
Gary

In a star going nose first use the largest pin that won't hit the sides of the die. The dies that Magma makes are tapered top and bottom. The check doesn't get crimped on until about 1/3 to 1/2 down. Most times I can start a check with finger pressure. If I have a burr or a tapered shank I hand seat and tap the check with a rawhide mallet while the nose is on a piece of wood, then size.
Keep in mind if you are checking pointed nose bullets, the point of the following bullet will make a divot in the preceding check. Not to worry the divot will not make any difference in accuracy, at least out to 100 yds.(As far as I have tested).
Now having said all that, a crooked check will make a huge difference and too small a drive pin might allow the check to ride up on one side if the boolit is not perfectly centered as it goes down.
Tony