Universal flat top punch for old SAECO Lubri-Sizer

I have an old SAECO Lubri-Sizer (black) and would like to use it. The problem is that for every bullet sized and lubed, different top punch should be used in Lubri-Sizer, and SAECO have their own with cone and thread, so RCBS/Lyman top punches, usually shipped with molds, cannot be used. Well, that means if I purchase some molds, I also have to look what kind of top punch from SAECO/REDDING will fit, if there is a match. Considering all those problems with top punches on SAECO Lubri-Sizer, I am even considering getting rid of it and purchasing RCBS Lube-A-Matic.

Well, this morning I stumbled upon video showing how to get around problems with different top punches. A gentleman has RCBS Lube-A-Matic, and instead of changing top punch for every different bullet, he made one punch completely flat and used it for every flat point bullet. I was concerned that alignment could be the issue, but he showed that even slightly canted bullet in sizing die will be straightened with flat top punch. Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlTSORbQbbY&t=82s . After 2:52, you can jump to 6:15, to see how self adjustment works.

Did anybody try the same method? Are bullets as good as when using specific top punch? Since I have one SAECO FP top punch for 45 bullet, I can just make it completely flat and it should be OK for every FP bullet. If that method works fine, it will save me a lot of frustration and some expense, and allow to use SAECO lubrisizing press (no cranking top punch for lube stick for every bullet ;) ) that I consider a step above RCBS or Lyman.

I would appreciate any advice or opinion!

Keith B (was The Perfessor here) runs Keith's Korner over on artfulbullet.com. He makes both flat punches and cup nosed punches that you can fill with epoxy to make custom nose punches for any boolit you need. I hope links to "the competition" are allowed… I have no affiliation with the man other than as a satisfied customer of a dozen or so cup nose punches I bought when he was still posting here.

https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.p...for-sale.3328/

Thank you Sir!

Please check your PM.

Regards,

Take a Top Punch ... clean the cavity ... fill with J.B. Weld and let set up .

Sand J.B. Weld dead level , wet-or-dry abrasive paper on a flat surface .
When done ... Flat Faced Punch .

You can also custom fit a boolit nose to a punch that almost fits with J.B. Weld Epoxy Putty... a small ball of epoxy putty in the cavity ... Take the boolit to be fitted and grease the nose (any release agents will work ) seat the bullet half way and let epoxy set ...when hard, remove boolit and you have custom fit for that boolit .
Gary

I can tell you that a flat nose punch is no guarantee of correct alignment with longer bullets. I was sizing some 200 grain 35 caliber rifle bullets last night and if they are not pretty much aligned correctly before pushing down into the sizer, the bullet will be size a LOT more on one side than the other. You have to really focus on aligning the bullet with the flat punch and it helps a lot if your press is close to the level of your eyes so you can both SEE the bullet and FEEL with your fingers to align it with the nose punch.

For short pistol bullets as shown in the video the flat punch works with little effort.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gwpercle

Take a Top Punch ... clean the cavity ... fill with J.B. Weld and let set up .

Sand J.B. Weld dead level , wet-or-dry abrasive paper on a flat surface .
When done ... Flat Faced Punch .

You can also custom fit a boolit nose to a punch that almost fits with J.B. Weld Epoxy Putty... a small ball of epoxy putty in the cavity ... seat the bullet half way and let epoxy set ...when hard remove boolit and you have custom fit for that boolit .
Gary

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You may want to mention to use some kind of release agent.

I have the same SAECO Lubri-Sizer and make nose punches on my lathe - but I've also found that a 60-degree cone works pretty well (in addition to the plain flat tip). The cone will leave a ring where it makes contact, but it's usually not objectionable. A cone will keep a bullet centered as it enters the die.

The epoxy method is a good one - but you'll need hollow nose punches to start with.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ben

You may want to mention to use some kind of release agent.

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Oh Yeah ... Thanks :drinks: !

that is kinda important to grease the boolit nose :)
Gary

NOE makes inexpensive flat nose top punches for saeco/redding

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Onty

I have an old SAECO Lubri-Sizer (black) and would like to use it. The problem is that for every bullet sized and lubed, different top punch should be used in Lubri-Sizer, and SAECO have their own with cone and thread, so RCBS/Lyman top punches, usually shipped with molds, cannot be used. Well, that means if I purchase some molds, I also have to look what kind of top punch from SAECO/REDDING will fit, if there is a match. Considering all those problems with top punches on SAECO Lubri-Sizer, I am even considering getting rid of it and purchasing RCBS Lube-A-Matic.

Well, this morning I stumbled upon video showing how to get around problems with different top punches. A gentleman has RCBS Lube-A-Matic, and instead of changing top punch for every different bullet, he made one punch completely flat and used it for every flat point bullet. I was concerned that alignment could be the issue, but he showed that even slightly canted bullet in sizing die will be straightened with flat top punch. Here is the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlTSORbQbbY&t=82s . After 2:52, you can jump to 6:15, to see how self adjustment works.

Did anybody try the same method? Are bullets as good as when using specific top punch? Since I have one SAECO FP top punch for 45 bullet, I can just make it completely flat and it should be OK for every FP bullet. If that method works fine, it will save me a lot of frustration and some expense, and allow to use SAECO lubrisizing press (no cranking top punch for lube stick for every bullet ;) ) that I consider a step above RCBS or Lyman.

I would appreciate any advice or opinion!

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My opinion is I have used flat top punches in my several Lyman 45 and 450s, and they do work BUT not so well on round nose and most long, pointed-type bullets. What I have done instead is take a length of steel rod and hack it to rough total length of a top punch with a hacksaw. I then chuck it in my UniMat Lathe and cut hack-sawed end flat. I then turn rod about, and do same with this end. Finally, I put a steel countersink in a tool holder, and cut into the steel rod until there is but a rim roughly 1/8" thick left. The "bad" is it DOES -- with some bullets -- print a ring/distortion -- on them. But, imho this is offset -- the "good" in that it keeps things on center. (I have over 200 commercial top-punches -- using my modified flat ones, as described here above -- as a last resort only. (The obvious exception are for wascutters and similarly moulded bullets)).
geo

SAECO makes flat point top punches, and markets them as blanks. They have a suffix designation of 200, so a flat point top punch for 45 caliber is 45200.

I have several appropriately sized bolts, fished out of one of my spare screw/bolt junk bins, that have been successfully repurposed into becoming flat top punches for a RCBS lubricizer. Several are allen head bolts with in various diameter heads. They work fine for flat nose boolits.