Bees wax lube

Many years ago I made some lube with Randy Rats bees wax, red dry gas and I think there was another ingredient. Recently I read that beeswax lubes should be tumbled with corn cob and lemishine before shooting .308s because the beeswax lubes do something to chamber and maybe the brass????. This is news to me, is this a concern or just one mans personal process. I have started reloading for my SOCOM 16 and really don't screw it up or any of my AR platforms especially the wildcat pistols. Thanks in advance ,Bill

never heard that at all.... some rcbs stick lubes are partial beeswax

In the many years you’ve been using your lube, what deleterious effects have you seen on your brass and chambers?

I suspect it is the same as everyone else that uses beeswax based lubes… none.

beeswax has been the #1 wax added to bullet lube since the dawn of time. There's rounds from the 1800's lubed with simple beeswax/tallow lubes that are just fine. I'm not sure where you read that from, but it's false.

Well well well, looks like I had 2 birds with one stone, first what I did and still have: 1 LANOLIN and alcohol not beeswax, and 2: that beeswax thing had to be a YouTube thing. So far nothing detrimental caused by beeswax in this forum. Thanks to all who contributed in this quest, Bill

JB, I like to add a few % anhydrous lanolin to my beeswax based Emmert’s lube. Makes it stick to the bullets better and helps polish the bore. Regardless, beeswax is the basic element of every bullet lube I’ve ever made. The late Barry Darr was convinced that his Paraffin and Vaseline concoction was as good or better, but Charlie Dell went to his grave believing paraffin and cast bullets don’t mix. He always used beeswax.
Froggie

CORRECTION: A Lanolin doesn't polish the bore... I throw in a little carnauba wax for that purpose, but not too much because it is hard (as waxes go)!

Isn't the lanolin and alcohol used as a case lube before sizing the cases?

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Originally Posted by Dusty Bannister

Isn't the lanolin and alcohol used as a case lube before sizing the cases?

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Yes it is. Lanolin is used for many purposes. Case lube, bullet lube, skin emollient and more.

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Originally Posted by just bill

Many years ago I made some lube with Randy Rats bees wax, red dry gas and I think there was another ingredient. Recently I read that beeswax lubes should be tumbled with corn cob and lemishine before shooting .308s because the beeswax lubes do something to chamber and maybe the brass????. This is news to me, is this a concern or just one mans personal process. I have started reloading for my SOCOM 16 and really don't screw it up or any of my AR platforms especially the wildcat pistols. Thanks in advance ,Bill

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What is red dry gas?

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Originally Posted by just bill

Well well well, looks like I had 2 birds with one stone, first what I did and still have: 1 LANOLIN and alcohol not beeswax, and 2: that beeswax thing had to be a YouTube thing. So far nothing detrimental caused by beeswax in this forum. Thanks to all who contributed in this quest, Bill

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Oh, are you taking about case sizing lube?
I assumed you were talking about boolit lube, since this is posted in the Boolit Lube sub-forum.

In regards to Rifle ammo, you want a clean case, with little or no residual case lube left on the case. You want the case to grip the chamber during peak pressure.

No doubt the same source would claim shooting cast bullets was bad for your gun, also.
Most folks that process honey comb advise running raw comb through cheese cloth to remove impurities, for making bees wax. That has nothing to do with bees, more like possible contamination during the gathering of the combs by humans.
Doubt if a worker bee that brings any contamination to the hive survives very long. Plus from the beginning of recorded history, bees wax has been used to preserve metals, make medicines and lotions.

I don’t think straight beeswax would work. It wouldn’t sluff off on the bore. Need sumpthin with a little lower melting temp. And fluidity.

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Originally Posted by Gobeyond

I don’t think straight beeswax would work. It wouldn’t sluff off on the bore. Need sumpthin with a little lower melting temp. And fluidity.

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used straight beeswax in a 32/20 for many years it worked fine (smokeless powder loads) the best smell after a shot!!!
Need some natural oil in it for blackpowder to soften the crud 50/50 give or take depending on temperature