Had my old tire disintegrate in the middle of a job so ordered a new neioprime tire for it. This will be the first tire change for this saw. Wheel is already scraped and cleaned, is now ready to get the 12"x3/4" replacement tire.
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Had my old tire disintegrate in the middle of a job so ordered a new neioprime tire for it. This will be the first tire change for this saw. Wheel is already scraped and cleaned, is now ready to get the 12"x3/4" replacement tire.
Are you just making a comment or do you have a question?
Where did you find a replacement Tire"? I have a 25 year old Delta Table Top Band Saw with the Rubber Tires on the Wheels all cracked.
Lightly warm the new tire to install makes it go on easier.
Check with the tool supply shops in your area for tires you will need the size of the wheels Check with Mac Master Carr, Graingers, and Shars. Also Grizzly and Jet may have a machine with the same size wheels that will interchange. In a bind you can cut a strip of neoprene the right thickness with angled ends and glue it in. A skived joint makes it much stronger.
You can get by for a short period of time by using black tape around your wheel if you go down because of a bad tire.
It sounded like a statement to me, why he made it I don't know.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1hole
To see if he could get comments on nothing, 6 of us fell for it:2_high5:Quote:
It sounded like a statement to me, why he made it I don't know.
I know nothing about bandsaws, so saying you ordered a tire for a saw sounded like ordering a screen door for your fish tank - didn't quite add up right away. On the other hand, with the mesquite tree I had cut down in my back yard, a bandsaw WOULD come in handy cutting down the big chunks.
I've rebuilt several bandsaws, the largest was a a 36" Doall with three wheels. When I replace the tires I use urethane tires from Sulfur Grove Tool. Urethane tires are much better, and last longer than rubber bandsaw tires. Here's a link: https://sgtool.com/product-category/...acturer-model/
I have a Rockwell Delta band saw -- for 93 1/2" saw loops. Purchased new in early 1970s my top tire succumbed to age and cracked/broke. I removed all and cleaned wheels thoroughly, and then had difficulty keeping the new, replacement tires on! Reading a tip in Fine Woodworking magazine, I brushed on a very thin coat of Contact Cement. I, per suggestion, put a sawloop on and ran it for about one minute; removed sawloop; and left it untouched overnight. Next day I put a sawloop on, and nary a problem. This has been ten to twelves years -- and the new tires w/ contact cement trick has worked!!! For what it's worth, I do not recall brand, etc., but the black rubber tires which came on the saw's replacement are almost clear, translucent, silicon rubber.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapier
Good luck!
geo
Join the old woodworking machines forum and search their band saw tire threads. Most of them prefer neoprene to the modern stuff.
A google search will also turn up lots of sources.
Started a conversation with good data as a result. Nothing wrong with that.
I wondered what in the world is a band saw tire.
So I searched “ band saw tire” and learned something that I didn’t know….Carry on!
Was a comment on stuff only breaks when you need it. Kinda like finding something in the last place you look.
Plus the new neoprene tire will replace the old rubber tire on an old 1 hp Craftsman that has seen many, many stock blanks cut out on it. Was going to get a new, modern saw, but, the frugal Scott part of me, got the better of me.
The new neoprene tires do not require glue. And with three hand clamps that crimp at the tip or flat you can install the new tire without removing the wheel from the saw. That tire edge break threw the bade center off, so had to stop and check the blade, found the messed up tire.
But since I have the saw down, I will block sand the table with wet and dry plus a light oil then degrease it and wax it. Heat the cast iron table with a heat gun, then apply bees wax to the warm iron, buff it, lasts a long time, with no rust and is slick for moving wood around.
Amazon has several neoprene tire sizes for saws, just make sure you get the correct diameter, thickness and width. Found the exact size I needed, from measuring my wheel, the wheel trough not the outside edge, the width, the diameter and the depth.
I usually use a 1/8" blade but I decided to try a 1/4" new blade, if that does not work ok,
I will polish an old 1/8 blade with a piece of wood scrap with short streight cuts. I have the 358 Win Mauser stock to cut. Doing this 96 Mauser build start to finish.
If you have a good flat stone available use it with a light oil mineral spirits or kerosene. Finish with an aluminum plate and fine lapping compound.
Usually on a saw table once the burrs are removed it comes in very quick,
Also be sure to bevel the edges of the cuts and grooves nice and smooth after finishing the table
My Dad had a cabinet shop, my first job was to clean the shop, then clean the hand tools, then the machines, then do the door sanding, then the style sanding, then do finishing and hinges, in that order. I got to put together boxes, while I resting, almost from the very start. Dad did the cutting and router work.
Do appreciate the advice, but been working in saw dust making for 70 years. Oh; On the weekends I got to go hang and install cabinets.
If you put blue Dykem on the cast iron top, it is easier to keep it level and true, when all the surface just get bright. If polished corner to corner, then side to side, then end to end with long even pressure strokes using a long flat wood block, making sure the surface stays true when the surface gets to be 100% bright with the last stroke. Degrease, heat and rub down with bees wax, buff with a soft cloth. Surface stays rust resistant and slick. Bees wax penetrates into the pores of the steel when melted, lasts a longer time than other wax. My cast iron top table saw is now about 20 years, without speck of rust. My Dad was a WD guy, I had to sand his Iron table tops here in FL near about every week.
First time I saw a bees wax treated cast iron machine top I was just flabbergasted, to think I had spent hours and hours sanding top after top.
I've never heard of beeswax treated tops. Thank you for that tip. I've been using Johnson's Paste Wax, but it doesn't last very long. Then I end up with rust here and there. I normally just scotchbrite it off and reapply the JPW.
What is the procedure for applying the beeswax? You heat the castiron top, and... Do you melt the wax? Rub the bar against the warm top?
Heat the top so it is warm enough to melt the bees wax, rub it on by a block, it will go into the pores. Then buff it off so it is smooth. You could heat it to buff it. The trick is to get all the rust off, then the oil off before applying the wax.
I got the tire in yesterday afternoon, Brushed and wiped the wheel with acetone and installed tire today. Used the "installed in place" method as I had four of the small wood clamps in the shop. It does take a bit of finger strength for the last 8 or so inches, but the neoprene tire snapped on without heating the tire.
Got the old 1/8" blade reinstalled, center, then adjusted on the top and bottom rear guide wheels for 1/8" rear flex. ran 10 one inch cuts to clean the blade on some oak scrap. For some reason, the 1/4" blade would not fit, was too large, regardless of what the package said.