Printable View
My RCBS seating stem is putting a ring around the nose of my Lee 358-158RF boolits. It doesn't seem to mark my 358-125's. Probably doesn't affect anything other than looks. What are you guys with RCBS dies using to seat the 158's? I can't shoot so my ammo might as well look good...
Expand the case neck properly. Turn the nose punch around and use the flat end.
I use a dab of hot glue along the seating end of the seating stem to press an impression of the bullet I am seating. Good thing is it easily peels or cleans off if I need to change profiles.
Sent from my SM-A136U1 using Tapatalk
Make the RCBS seating stem flat, like the bullet. Hacksaw or grinder?
Thanks for the replies
That's what's surprising. Range lead w/a splash of tin, 2 cts of Hi-Tek, sized to 0.358". NEW Starline brass, sized, expanded w/NOE 360x356 expander. Boolit has a slight bevel and fits into case halfway to the bottom of the lube groove before seating. You would think it would seat w/o marking the nose. Flipping the seating seat isn't an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by popper
I tried the hot melt with a 9mm stem a while back. Seems like I had concerns about getting the nose imprint in the seating stem square. Maybe I'm over thinking it.Quote:
Originally Posted by guzma393
Since the nose is flat, that may be the way to go. I hate to permanently modify the stem but I could always buy another. I'm thinking about chucking the stem in a drill and trying to break that sharp edge on the inside with some sandpaper. Wish a had a lathe. If that doesn't work I'll try to print a thin disc to glue to the bottom of the stem to make it flat. That's about the limit of my 3d modeling skills. If that doesn't work, it's going to get the belt sander treatment.Quote:
Originally Posted by 243winxb
Thanks again for the ideas.
I need to do this for another project using very pointy bullets, and have been thinking on just how to keep things square.
My solution is to use a drill press and vise. Chuck one part in the drill press then lower it into the vise and lock it. Release from the chuck then put the other piece in the chuck. Apply release agent to the bullet, hot glue or epoxy to the other then bring them together. Let sit until cured.
I think it will work, no guarantees though.
Robert
What seating stem is in the die now? My RCBS 38/357 dies came with three seating stems, RN, SWC and WC. I am using the same bullet and the RN punch works without leaving marks.
If it was me, I’d load a few And if the bullet did what I wanted it to do I wouldn’t worry about it. I know aesthetics bother some people but I’ve always figured can’t see a minor imperfection add X feet per second traveling down range. But that’s just my view. I’m sure other opinions will greatly differ.
I had a similar problem with a 38/357 Lyman swc seating stem and my 358429 bullet. Cut a ring down from the nose of the bullet when seating. I took an old Forster deburring tool that someone had broken one of the legs off the outside deburring end and cut the sharp edge out of the nose of the seating punch. Wasn't worried about hurting the messed up deburring tool, but was really surprised on how easily it cut the sharp edge off the seating stem. The cutter steel was considerably harder than the punch. Eventually changed to a Lee die for that bullet and used the Lyman die with the round nose seater in a head for jacketed bullets. Extra sets of dies are cheaper than frustration and wasted time.
SOLVED!
I like the possibilities with a drill press. Never thought of using one to center things up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk42gunner
Duh, never thought to use the RN. Tried it and was still slightly marking the bullet. Looked on the RCBS website and only found RN, SWC, and Sil. I did put the SWC in my cart I was going to sand it flat on a belt sander.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich/WIS
Yes, yes, & yes. If it was only that simple Poppy. It's a curse I tell you.Quote:
Originally Posted by poppy42
Curious, Liked your idea of using a cutter. Much quicker than trying to sand it down. Didn't have an outside deburring tool to sacrifice but I did have something to use as a cutting tool, a drill bit. Had a time trying to chuck the steating stem in the drill w/o a bunch of runout but got it close. Used a 5/16" bit to break that sharp edge. Had some chatter marks which I sanded down with the wet or dry and it looked pretty good. Loaded another 25 rounds with zero marks from the seater.Quote:
Originally Posted by curiousgeorge
Thanks for all the ideas.
Glad you got it sorted out. I too do not care for the seating stem or top punch modifying my bullet nose profile. I don't understand the concept of spending my money, time, and energy making bullets and then get right to the end and just slop it and not worry about it.
I modify my seating stems to be more flat, or full flat. I generally like to procure another, but flat is what I need most of the time.
I was having trouble with a Lyman 30-30 die set. I couldn't get Lyman to send me a #8 seating stem. After a couple of attempts, I took the #465 RN stem they sent, which I already had one of, and faced it off flat. I don't have a lathe, but I do have a drill press. I was able to chuck it up and grind it off gently while it was spinning, using just a plain angle grinder. I then squared it by lowering it against a sheet of sandpaper that I laid on my drill press table. It worked like a charm.
Glad you have it solved.
How old are your RCBS dies? I use the same two boolits for my Henry rifle. I bought a fairly new set of RCBS dies that a guy had and they came with a RN & FN seating stems. The FN stem doesn't give an issue at all. I load in a single stage so I put split rings on my dies and once set up for 38, use a shim to seat the dies higher for 357. I do seat and crimp in two different operations. Another solution I have used is to buy an old Lyman AA DA die - advertise for one on here or find one on fleabay and if it has a FN stem, just convert it so the end is completely flat so that it only pushes on the flat nose portion of the boolit.