Whats the traditional direction to REMOVE a winchester dovetailed front blade or buckhorn rear? I believe it is left to right when viewed from the rear of the sights but I'm not sure. I am specifically talking about a vintage high wall with original dovetail (I think it is 0.375).
It’s left to right as you look down the barrel. I’m pretty old and owned a lot of guns and I’ve never seen it any other way. I’ve been told others have, but I think it’s from someone else beating them out the wrong way.
Winchesters are left to right looking down the bore..Done hundreds in my time of collecting, shooting and helping others. Some will have a set screw so be sure to loosen it first..Also use a brass punch to tap on the site base, do not use steel..
Left to right looking down the barrel from the breach or the muzzle side?
Like you’re aiming the gun……your left to your right.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1886nut
Is the premise here that Winchester dovetails were/are tapered? That would be both difficult to machine in production, and windage adjustment would reach a point where the sight binds and stops moving in one direction, or gets too loose to stay in position
Now, I can see whoever fitted them might file some clearance on one side of the sight(s) to more easily start in the barrel dovetail because it’s less risky to adjust the sight than file on the barrel.
It’s not a “premise”, if you buy anyone’s dovetail sight you can measure it before installation and it’s wider on one side than the other. That’s by design. It gets tighter as you tap it in. Most aftermarket replacements are made oversized to allow for the slot having been expanded from previous removal. I’ve installed quite a few. There are some other tricks gunsmithsuse to tighten them up also.Quote:
Originally Posted by HWooldridge
Like I wrote, I can see it on the sight but not the dovetail - too hard to mass produce.Quote:
Originally Posted by NSB
Don't be so picky about where the taper is, just realize that there is a taper and there is one correct direction to remove or install the sight.Quote:
Originally Posted by HWooldridge
I work in a high volume machine shop so the production process interests me...Quote:
Originally Posted by ulav8r
I did some research last night and about half the people out in the internet world believe there is no taper machined into the barrels and the other half says the opposite. There are some "authorities" in both camps - BUT I did find an old drawing that was purported to be a Winchester print (although no title block so could be anybody). That drawing stated the dovetails were nominally 0 degrees 30 seconds of taper. That is almost no draft, but if the drawing is really from Winchester, the engineers clearly had a plan to produce that way. Before CNC machines existed, it might be easiest to cut it with a broach, since that process would be pretty fast once tooled up properly. The next question is how they measured the results. I suspect they either used GO and NOGO gages to check the cut or a couple of gage wires with a micrometer.
When someone asks you what time it is, telling them how to make a watch isn’t the best answer. Just saying.Quote:
Originally Posted by HWooldridge
The Devil is in the details but point taken - some folks just want to know the time. I'll keep it to myself next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by NSB
No the dovetail cuts are never tapered. But the sight bases always are.Quote:
Originally Posted by HWooldridge
If you ever check barrel dovetails it's easy to see this is the case. If barrel dovetails were tapered, and sight bases were also tapered, the sights would stop hard once both tapers met along their contact areas. It would make drifting a sight to center it impossible.
This is the way I understand it to be done as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinman93
Chris.
You can satisfy your curiosity via actually measuring the I.D. of the female dovetail(s), removing the sight, if needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by HWooldridge
Tough to measure the dovetail with any measuring device. But I've use pop cans and my micrometer to do so. I cut strips from the can and trim them until they just slide into the bottom of the dovetail, then check both sides from left and right to compare. Once you have the correct width I easure the strip with my micrometer to get actual readings.Quote:
Originally Posted by pietro
Little hammers, very nice punches and a good attitude can fix a lot of things.
Cut a couple of pins from drill rod, about 1/16 in diameter, and put one against each side of the dovetail. Measure between them with a caliper, then use a gage pin or jo block to check for parallelism.
Even 1/16" pins wont get into the corners of the dovetail cut so you have to calculate what is leftover. It's so much easier to use scissors and soda pop cans to get it exact, and just measure them. Just holding 1/16" pins, and trying to accurately measure their spread takes two people to do so.Quote:
Originally Posted by ulav8r
don't. I for one, appreciate the information. thanks for your contributionQuote:
Originally Posted by HWooldridge