How to clean antique double barrel (or if I should)

I acquired this old percussion double barrel. Based on the Proof mark (which is kind of worn) it is a Manufacture St.Eteinne (maybe mid 1800s):
Attachment 301504


To be clear it is not in great shape. I would not fire it on a bet (Barrel is very thin at the muzzle) but I was looking at cleaning it up for display. I do not plan on selling it but would prefer not to destroy whatever value it still has if any.

The problem I see is that it appears someone tried to paint it. Not sure if it is brushed on paint or a poor attempt and cold bluing. I am looking for a recommendation on how to clean it or even if I should tor clean it as I don't want to devalue it even more. Below is a photo, you can see what almost looks like brush marks and runs right up to where the handguard is. They apparently did not bother taking it apart to paint/blue it.

Attachment 301505

Hello--welcome to the Castboolits Forum. Glad to have you with us.

The question: First, it is about 100% certain that the barrels are joined by ordinary soft solder, so you don't want to use anything that will attack that joint and leave you with two single barrel shotguns! ;) I believe, given the description of the problem, I'd try some kerosene and steel wool. If you can't make any headway with that switch to paint thinner (not paint remover). Probably, with enough elbow grease you can get the paint off and any active rust. Then, if you want to reblue it Belgian hot water blue would be a good choice (requires a hot water tank) or Brownell's Oxpho Blue for a cold blue.

DG

Just for safety sake and you may have already done this, but a high percentage of old muzzle loaders were left loaded, and for that matter, new ones too. A cousin had a pawn shop gun shop and he learned this real fast. Take a ramrod or dowel rod - lay it on the outside and mark it on the rod at the end of the barrel when the other end lines up at about the base of the barrel, then run it down the barrel and see if it makes it down close to your mark. If not use a worm type attachment to pull wadding, shot, etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager

Hello--welcome to the Castboolits Forum. Glad to have you with us.

The question: First, it is about 100% certain that the barrels are joined by ordinary soft solder, so you don't want to use anything that will attack that joint and leave you with two single barrel shotguns! ;) I believe, given the description of the problem, I'd try some kerosene and steel wool. If you can't make any headway with that switch to paint thinner (not paint remover). Probably, with enough elbow grease you can get the paint off and any active rust. Then, if you want to reblue it Belgian hot water blue would be a good choice (requires a hot water tank) or Brownell's Oxpho Blue for a cold blue.

DG

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Thanks I appreciate it. Did not really know where to start.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoeJames

Just for safety sake and you may have already done this, but a high percentage of old muzzle loaders were left loaded, and for that matter, new ones too. A cousin had a pawn shop gun shop and he learned this real fast. Take a ramrod or dowel rod - lay it on the outside and mark it on the rod at the end of the barrel when the other end lines up at about the base of the barrel, then run it down the barrel and see if it makes it down close to your mark. If not use a worm type attachment to pull wadding, shot, etc.

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Thanks, I took the ramrod (which is only about 1/2 and inch longer than the barrel) and ran it down both sides to verify.

If you want to remove paint, get a can of lacquer thinner, a pair of old socks and some aluminum foil. Do this OUTDOORS, away from any source of ignition, LT is flammable!

Remove the stock and forend. put the part to be stripped into one, or bth, of the old socks. Lay that piece on a sheet of foil and saturate the sock(s) with LT. wrap the foil around it to make it as airtight as possible or the LT will evaporate really quickly. Go do something else for ten minutes. When you come back, use a plastic scraper or some fine steel wool to remove the bubbled up paint. You'll want tp wear a pair of nitrile gloves for this step. You may need a little LT on the steel wool, maybe not. Repeat as needed. Worked like a charm for me on a couple of Bubba'd "Tac-ti-cool" shotguns that I picked up cheap! If applied to the wood surfaces you'll need to re-finish them.

I generally use Hoppes #9 and 00000 steel wool to clean the grime off the steel parts of old guns. If you're careful the original finish, if there is any, should not be harmed.

Good luck and post pictures.

You are (IMO) looking at the orig bbl finish on the metal that was underneath the forend and was protected by the paint job.
The 'browning' was the standard finish of composite metal shotgun bbl's on muzzle loaders,,( damascus, twist, laminated, etc.)

It also looks like there is that same orig browned finish still underneath what ever paint or coloring was applied to the bbls.

I would try to save that orig brown finish over all.
Using a solvent like alcohol to start with,,see if it will disolve that colored painted on coating.
It may just be colored shellac in which case alcohol will disolve it easily.
The main thing is not to wreck the browned finish underneath.

If alcohol doesn't do it,,step up to something like mineral spirits.
Then to laquer thinner if that doesn't work,
Then perhaps acetone..

Keep any of these solvents away from the rest of the gun especially the wood surfaces as they will remove old finish and destroy the age appropriate look of the gun,,the so called patina they accululate from hanging around in attics, smoke filled rooms, being used, sometimes abused, shot and carried.

None of those solvents will hurt the browned finish on the metal,,it's just controlled rust that has been stopped.
Avoid the use of things like steel wool and other abrasives on the metal. Removing that browned finish is not what you want,,just the 'paint' on top of it.

You are not making it look like new,,just conserving and that's actually what true restoration is all about.

I have a few of the double barrel shotguns manufactured at St Étienne. Mostly 16 gauge. You need to decide how much time and effort you want to put into this gun. Many of these guns were not blued. They turned out being kept in the white or browned with a salt and oil mixture rubbed on the guns surfaces. This is not that different from bluing, because they both form a corrosion that holds oil and helps protect the metal a long as oil is frequently applied. If there is real paint on it I wouldn’t hesitate to remove it with a paint remover. Follow this with steel wool and mineral spirits until you find the results you want. Don’t forget the inside of the bores. You want to get them cleaned up and shiny. Perhaps with a bit of lapping.

Check you tube for anvil gunsmithing. Multiple topics on conserving, converting, etc. research before attempting to clean any old finish.