Looking to get a 30cal lee mold for 30-06, advice?

So I'm headed down the path less traveled. I reload for several cartridges and cast for a couple now. I am looking to add 30cal for 30-06 to the mix. I have used traditional lube and gas checks, I am getting into powder coating, and I am wanting to try paper patching with the 30-06 along with the other methods.

I am looking at the lee molds mainly because of cost.

1. I have been reading reviews, the more recent ones are saying the 30cal rifle molds are having some quality control issues. Is this accurate? It has me a bit concerned, but my pistol molds from them have been fantastic.
2. Is there a preferred bullet weight for 30-06 with cast lead? I see 160, 180, and 200 which are all in the common weight ranges. but I was not sure if there was a go to weight for lead.
3. Why all the flat points and 1 ogive radius designs? I only see 1 modern style, and its a 230g for 300blackout, anyone try this in 30-06?
3. My alloy is unknown, but it is melted down brazos pistol bullets. Around 13bhn air cooled from what I understand. Will this be hard enough with gas checks and lube and or powder coat? I still need to get a BHN tester, but I could water drop if needed.
4. How hard can I push these? Most of the reading I have done was in the 1800-2200fps range max.
5. Anyone tried Paper patching with 30-06? Most of the articles I have read and videos I have watched are more than 5yrs old. I know its not terribly practical, just really cool, want to try it.

It is always nice to know what your goal is if being asked to suggest a bullet weight. For me, and casual paper punching, and not hunting, the 180 grain cast bullet works well. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition has data. Do not select a bullet and then find a shortage of data.

Given the alternatives you mention, HT and quench for a harder bullet, or powder coating, just be sure to retain the gas check if you explore higher pressures. You may have problems trying to paper patch a standard sized cast bullet. Your research in paper patching 30 cal should have shown you that often the body of the bullet is closer to .301" and then paper patched to bring up to correct diameter. I understand the wish to "try it and see". Good luck on that.

Your concern about quality of the mold is not necessarily a deal breaker because if the nose is too small, powder coating will increase that diameter for a better fit. If the nose diameter is correct, shoot with the conventionally lubricated bullets. Perhaps a clear description of your goal will get better suggestions.

Depends what you want it for. For hunting I prefer a 180 min, but think 200gr is better. Flat point for sure, with a GC. This style /weight bullet does not need to be pushed at high velocity to be effective on deer size game. 1600 to 1800 fps second, & your effective, easy to 100yds.

Lee doesn't make a paper patch mould for 30-06.

There was an old mould called an NRA mould specifically for this.

You need a .301 mould like this, it'll need three wraps of paper.

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop...llets-25-pack/

Your 13 BHN lead is fine for paper patching.

the Lyman 311299 is one bullet design that seems to work real well in most stock factory 30-06 hunting rifles with the most common 1-10 twist rate barrel. the lee 309-170 flat nose is another that can yield good results and there are many many more.
a good place to get your feet wet and you will most likely have good results at about 2000 fps max with a gas checked bullet in 30-06. might want to start out with some lee molds as the cost of a bunch of different molds can add up real quick.
as far as your questions, I'm no expert but can give you my opinion
1, quality control issues, I think the molds made these days are more consistent than in the past. lots of great mold makers these days. I would not generalize with any statement about quality control. in the past, a decade or few back, it was not uncommon for some Lyman molds to drop undersize bullets
2 + 3+ 4, preferred bullet weight, that's up to you, since there are limiting factors in cast bullet velocity out of factory stock rifles, if that 230 grain bullet is not too long and will stabilize fired from your barrel then its good.. I don't think your going to get a cast bullet going to 3000fps in your 30-06.. Its more realistic that you can put together an accurate load with velocity in that 1800-2200 fps range with your factory stock hunting rifle, a gas check bullet cast of easy to find clip on wheel weight alloy.
5--I dont know anything about paper patching.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dusty Bannister

It is always nice to know what your goal is if being asked to suggest a bullet weight. For me, and casual paper punching, and not hunting, the 180 grain cast bullet works well. The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition has data. Do not select a bullet and then find a shortage of data.

Given the alternatives you mention, HT and quench for a harder bullet, or powder coating, just be sure to retain the gas check if you explore higher pressures. You may have problems trying to paper patch a standard sized cast bullet. Your research in paper patching 30 cal should have shown you that often the body of the bullet is closer to .301" and then paper patched to bring up to correct diameter. I understand the wish to "try it and see". Good luck on that.

Your concern about quality of the mold is not necessarily a deal breaker because if the nose is too small, powder coating will increase that diameter for a better fit. If the nose diameter is correct, shoot with the conventionally lubricated bullets. Perhaps a clear description of your goal will get better suggestions.

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This will be a plinking load.

From my research it showed 2 wraps with a thinner paper. sizing the bullet around .308 and sizing to .309 after wrapping with a light coat of sizing wad and a spring back around .310.

I was planning to get a .308 and .309 sizer to start with. Even if I need to go smaller I can still use the .309 for the GC/lubed and GC/PC loads starting out.

Good thought on the load data, my lyman manual is the only one with cast bullet data, for 115, 160, 170, 173, 190, 200, 210

Quote:

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Originally Posted by farmbif

the Lyman 311299 is one bullet design that seems to work real well in most stock factory 30-06 hunting rifles with the most common 1-10 twist rate barrel. the lee 309-170 flat nose is another that can yield good results and there are many many more.
a good place to get your feet wet and you will most likely have good results at about 2000 fps max with a gas checked bullet in 30-06. might want to start out with some lee molds as the cost of a bunch of different molds can add up real quick.
as far as your questions, I'm no expert but can give you my opinion
1, quality control issues, I think the molds made these days are more consistent than in the past. lots of great mold makers these days. I would not generalize with any statement about quality control. in the past, a decade or few back, it was not uncommon for some Lyman molds to drop undersize bullets
2 + 3+ 4, preferred bullet weight, that's up to you, since there are limiting factors in cast bullet velocity out of factory stock rifles, if that 230 grain bullet is not too long and will stabilize fired from your barrel then its good.. I don't think your going to get a cast bullet going to 3000fps in your 30-06.. Its more realistic that you can put together an accurate load with velocity in that 1800-2200 fps range with your factory stock hunting rifle, a gas check bullet cast of easy to find clip on wheel weight alloy.
5--I dont know anything about paper patching.

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The 230 is this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010217751?pid=938614

According to Midway bullet length is 1.363, and plugging that into Berger's stability calculator it should be stable at 1600fps and up.

If it's just for plinking, I'll second the Lee 170 FP. Gas checked and simply lubed with LLA.
Won't set any speed records but launched with "The Load" of 13 grains Red Dot it's plenty
accurate to 100 yards from my old Savage 110. Why hassle with the paper patch for plinking?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chutesnreloads

If it's just for plinking, I'll second the Lee 170 FP. Gas checked and simply lubed with LLA.
Won't set any speed records but launched with "The Load" of 13 grains Red Dot it's plenty
accurate to 100 yards from my old Savage 110. Why hassle with the paper patch for plinking?

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Why paper patching. It give me another option over traditional lube, powder coating, and gas checks. From what I have read some say you can push paper patched bullets to gas checked velocities, or even possibly jacketed velocities. Mainly though it just looks super cool to me, asthetics.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shadow9mm

Why paper patching. It give me another option over traditional lube, powder coating, and gas checks. From what I have read some say you can push paper patched bullets to gas checked velocities, or even possibly jacketed velocities. Mainly though it just looks super cool to me, asthetics.

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IIRC, Col. Harrison’s book that was published by the NRA has a good article on paper patching the 30-06. I have it around here somewhere but finding it may be a chore.

I have used the Lyman .11041 (173 gr.) and the Lee 309-170F in the 30-06 with very good results. If you're only wanting a plinking load, keep your velocities 12-1300 or less and you won't need a gas check. At this velocity you have, essentially, a laege bore 22rimfire. Loads of fun to shoot, quiet, cheap and generally pretty accurate. If you're going 1300+ then you'll need the gas check.

Your alloy will be fine. If you want to harden it, water drop the boolits directly from the mould.

How fast can you go? With a 10" twist '06, you'll probably be limited to 1800 to maybe 2000 fps. Maybe. Depends on how well the load matches the rifle, there's a lot of things that come into play when you start pushing 2000 fps.

Some reading for you:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...Rifles-Article

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...g-edge-failure

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-rifle-boolits

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=rpm+threshold

Quote:

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Originally Posted by centershot

I have used the Lyman .11041 (173 gr.) and the Lee 309-170F in the 30-06 with very good results. If you're only wanting a plinking load, keep your velocities 12-1300 or less and you won't need a gas check. At this velocity you have, essentially, a laege bore 22rimfire. Loads of fun to shoot, quiet, cheap and generally pretty accurate. If you're going 1300+ then you'll need the gas check.

Your alloy will be fine. If you want to harden it, water drop the boolits directly from the mould.

How fast can you go? With a 10" twist '06, you'll probably be limited to 1800 to maybe 2000 fps. Maybe. Depends on how well the load matches the rifle, there's a lot of things that come into play when you start pushing 2000 fps.

Some reading for you:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...Rifles-Article

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...g-edge-failure

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-rifle-boolits

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=rpm+threshold

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Thank you! So far I have found the last 2 the most interesting. I really enjoyed the hunting info. And while the RPM stuff was a bit deep, I got the basics, and will got through it some more to try and really understand it.