Anyone used the Tubbs Firelapping system for .22LR?

I am going to rebarrel my 10/22.
Has anyone had any luck with the Tubbs Firelapping system?
I was thinking of just rubbing Clover on 20 .22LR bullets.
It is a .920 24" match chambered barrel.

I use the LBT compound and have always had improvement.

I've used the Tubb's "Final Finish" system in .223, 22 Hornet, and 30-06, but not in .22 LR. Don't know for sure about the rimfire, but the centerfire bullets they sell are a totally different thing than putting Clover valve lapping abrasive on boolits. The Tubb system polishes the bore; even the coarsest of the 5 abrasive grades in the kit is a very fine powder, that does not feel abrasive on your fingers.

I must say, I've had very good results with it. Much better than I've had with firelapping the traditional "lead boolit" way.

+1 for the LBT compound. I've lapped a couple of 22's with it and got some accuracy improvement both times. Just dip the tip of the bullet in the compound, chamber, and fire.

I used the TUBBS system on a Remington 300 Short Action Ultra Magnum and it would put 3 all touching at the 100 mark. The system used by Veral Smith and Beartooth bullets is alot different from the tubbs system. Infact Beartooth implies in the book that the Tubbs system is not any good. Go to the Beartooth site and get the book if you are interested in this lapping project. He is a friend of Veral's and they both express the same line of thought on breaking in a new barrell for top accuracy.

Yep. I used the Tubbs on my S&W 22A pistol. It was a tedious exercise -- bit of pain to do in an autoloader. Wouldn't extract reliably. Had to tap a high percentage of the cases loose with a cleaning rod.

The end result was worth it though in the pistol. Cleans much easier now and cut group size in half.

Have not used the Tubb's system but a much less expensive alternative is the Wheeler Engineering "Bore Lapping Kit" which MidwayUSA sells. It contains the following grits: 220, 320 anc 600.

I have used it combined with special ammo: Aguila .22-SSS which is a "sub-sonic" 60gr bullet on a "long" case. This "slower" ammo is ideal for firelapping and the longer lead slub takes a good load of grit.

I would not use the coaser valve grinding compound.

In fact, I have also used LBT compound, JB Bore Cleaning compound and Flitz polish but never anything coarse.

Another tip that I never see mentioned is using the .22-SSS rimfire with a .223 sub-caliber adapter to fire lap .223 rifles into a .22 bullet trap (yes indoors & yes only when SWMBO was safely gone from home). I monitor the polishing progress the best way -- visually, using a Hawkeye bore scope. Go slow and of course YMMV.

"It is a .920 24" match chambered barrel."

docone31, If you're rebarreling your 10/22 with the aforementioned bbl., why do you need to fire lap it?

It is from Numerich Arms.
Sometimes I get zingers, sometimes I get ringers. I got a .45 caliber octagonal barrel from them once and it was bent.
I am wondering just in case.
I am doing this for the wife. She finds the 10/22 boring. I am hoping to help her really respond to a challenge.
I built her a .243 match rifle, thinking she might not handle the recoil of a .308. As it turned out, the .243 took two full years to make. I built my .308 in under five weeks. That was the first she fired of any rifle. She never fired the .243. It just takes up space. She test fires my .308 paper patches. She loves the caliber.
I figuired that .22LR that is more than a tinker toy might expand her horizons.
I also like cheap ammo. I am hoping, if the Remington Thunderbolt ammo I use is a little tight in the chamber, I might just expand it a tad.
Who knows.

Most all barrels need to be lapped regardless of what is said by the maker. Look down a new barrel and if you don't see tooling marks, turn up the power. If you want any firearm to shoot to it's full potential it needs one or both of the following. A correct break in or barrel lapping. When I was a Police sniper I had a rifle built by McMillan. It came with very strict rules on barrel break in. After doing this,my rifle would place 5 shots in one hole at 100 meters. The targets are on record.

That is also what I am figuiring.
My Enfield had hammer marks in the bore. I paper patched and fired 20rds with Clover rubbed on them. It immediatly tightened up the groups!
It has been there ever since.
I figuire the same with the 10/22. I am planning on rolling the bullets in some Clover, wipeing the left over off.
A little bit will do.

Are your fliers on the first shot from the magazine? I had this problem until I pinned the firing pin. Rimfire Central has a lot of good info on the 10/22

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/

Crabo, great forum on the 10/22!!!
Many thanks. I already have ideas.