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Well the #1 I have coming is a 416 rem mag. Does anybody have experience with paper patch in this gun? I'm looking at a mold from accuratemolds. #41-420CG What do you think of this design? I think I'd like to patch an as cast boolit but it seems that most people size first. Why is that? What diameter would you recommend? I read that bore diameter should be .408 so I was thinking .410 Thanks for the help.
Roy
Have you done much patching up till now? I would advise against getting the #41-420CG mold, but would say the #41-420C a better choice as it is a flat base mold. The #41-400 P is already a PP mold, although it lacks gripping grooves that Tom can add if ordered. When wrapping a patch it is advisable to have a flat base rather than a GC rebated base. I know people use GC molds and like to patch them, I`m only giving my .02 cents on it. My custom PP .416 flat base mold by Richard Doughty casts at .411" Dia. with 3 gripping bands .100" wide on the body to better grip the patch. The finished weight of boolet, patch and a wipe of JPW comes in at about 395 Gr. +/- using my 50/50 alloy. I final size the patched boolet in a custom made .417" sizer. Out of my .416 Taylor I get very respectable accuracy at 100 yds., haven`t shot it farther out yet. Send an E-Mail to Tom at Accurate and ask about modifying a mold design for your purposes.Robert
I designed the 41-390P for my .416 Taylor. It looks like it does because the reamer I used has a very long throat and I built the rifle on a Winchester M70, which has a short magazine. That bullet seats to the base of the neck, touches the rifling, and feeds through the magazine. Your #1 won't have any such limitations to it, so once you get the rifle in your hands you can make a chamber cast and see what exactly you will want for a bullet. It will be about .409" - .410" in diameter, parallel sided from the base of the case neck to the leade, have whatever nose on it you feel appropriate, and small gripper grooves for the patch to grab.
You will find that the Rigby works exceptionally with paper patch ammo, allowing full power with good accuracy and no leading using soft lead bullets. It is also big enough to allow good use of slow 50BMG gunpowder if you desire something less than full ballistics. Enjoy!
-Nobade
I have rolled a few but not a lot. .308 worked good .338 win not so good. Why do you prefer the flat base? I have read that it is easier to twist the tails without tearing them on a gascheck design.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardcast416taylor
Roylowell the bore will be 0.408 but the groove will be around 0.416". Accurate 42-310B & 42-400B are my designs for my wildcat based on a 300 WSM case I do not paper patch so no help there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by roylowell
As I said that some people patch a GC boolet and get decent accuracy, I don`t fall in with that crowd. I have tried doing that way, didn`t like the way the tail came out or for that matter how they shot. A flat base give a better gas seal immediately on firing than a GC wrapped boolet does and I believe better accuracy. Perhaps you aren`t leaving enough over hang of patch on the flat base and can`t make a decent tail "twist", or your patch is too damp and tears when doing a tail.
I designed the Accurate #32-200P mold with Tom for my 8mm Mauser, it really made a difference in my Mausers. I wrap .30 cals up thru the 7.62 Mosin Nagant round. I patch .338-06 and .338 Mag. with good results. The .375 H&H is the next to largest I patch. For the .416 cal. I have experimented patching "Fat .40 cal." boolets with decent results. The .416`s I patch for are the .416 Taylor on a Model 70 action and a .416 Russian Express which is a MN case necked up to .416 on a Nagant action.Robert
Do a chamber cast. The throat on both my #1 .416 rifles are tight.
That makes sense! Never thought about the space where the GC usually goes giving the flame/powder granules a chance to destroy the paper tail before the bullet can 'upset' in the bore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardcast416taylor