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I am re-barreling a Ruger 1/3 with an octagon barrel in 38-55, and need a sighting system for it. I was thinking about a tube type sight, but to stay legal in some competitions it cannot have any magnification. Does anyone know of a supplier for these types of sights?
If memory serves ? Montana arms or Buffalo arms ? had something like these years ago ?
I used to use a Kings Tube Sight when I competed in sillywett, but do not know if they are still in business.
Aside from the mounts it wouldnt take a lot to make one.
a piece if seamless tubing the length you desire it to be. A couple inserts pressed in with threads and the mount for the inserts. Here they would need to be in a ways to be in the shade.
A small piece of brass for a pope rail if needed.
some brass round stock for the eye piece and objective bell. remember these will thread in to lock the inserts also.
A set of the mva mounts or DZ mounts.
Im currently thinking thu one for a rifle Im building, Heres how far Ive gotten from the eye piece forward.
press a tube into the tube 1 1/4" long and face ends square
Cut a very fine thread in it,
Eye piece will be threaded to fit this sleeve
A thin slot needs to be cut to match the desired inserts 3/4" forward of the end
If needed attach the pope rail make sure the screws dont stick thru the tube
At the front end press a 2" tube in and thread. then face square
The objective will need to be a longer stem.
I am thinking 36 threads per inch but may go to 48 for the objectives
Cut the ID threads first you can bore a step to major dia to see when thread is done then fit to the males.
Cut the slots in the same set up. If your machine dosnt have the travel use a v block clamped out of the way to repeat set up.
Last is the stop ring.
Looks like around 70.00 worth of materials for the tube itself. Not sure what the mounts are going for. This is for a 34" long tube.
Just a idea for the tube. I got into the scope making craze a few years back and for the outer tube I found a piece of 4130 aircraft tube. Number one son was in the aircraft restoration business at the time and was buying it in 20 foot sticks. It is perfect in size and works easy. I don’t know all the sizes that are made but I used 3/4” which was a very common size in tube scopes in the day.
It may take a little imagination to find it but it’s out there.
Wow, I would not have thought of that, but I can do it. I really need a plan to see it all though. Can you draw a sketch and scan it here? Small lengths of tubing can be sources from Aircraft Spruce.
While the aluminum will be cheaper ir will be harder to finish out Having it anodized will add to the sizes.
Ill try to draw something up this evening and post it
For the insert cuts you will need to decide what inert your going to use as there are different styles.
One thing I may ad is a knurled ring part way down the tube around 1 1/2" long with a fine knurl just as a spot to grip and return the scope to the stop after each shot.
The outside can be polished the inside will need to be a very matte finish to avoid glares and reflections.
It is rough but should help with what I was describingAttachment 313418
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaguy
I think there might also be a Wicks aircraft supply? The 3/4” 4130 I used really made a nice looking scope. I polished the outside bright then gloss blued it.
Today while in the shop I came up with an easy way to do the slots for the inserts. Cut the slot in the tube to depth then on each side solder a ring around outside of tube. this will leave a gap between them an o ring can then be used to seal the slot and hold the insert in. This will require the pedersoli style inserts
We would like to see pictures of the finished project.
O.K. For my education how do you adjust and use a tube sight.
I assume
The rear has an indent spring and ball which takes up the adjustments of the rear knobs.
The front has to either pivot some how or the tube would bend during adjusting.
What does the ridged flat stock on the underneath front of the tube do?
Does it float on recoil and you have to push the scope back to a front stop for each shot or is the scope fixed in position once set.
I understand the apertures and insert tube idea well enough.
I have seen pictures of them but that’s about it and once or twice in movies.
Excuse me for my ignorance
Barra
The adjustments at the rear are either a spring loaded plunger and 2 adjusting micrometer heads ( DZ and unertal style) or a slifing sleeve type (malcom and MVA)The front sits on 2 bosses and spring plunger.
The flat stock is a pope rail and limits rotation of the tube.
Yes it floats under recoil and needs to be pulled back against the stop ring every shot unless it has a recoil spring installed.
In use they are similar to a malcomb or unertal scope. You sight and fire pull the scope back into battery load and sight again.
Thank you all clearer now.
In lieu of a Pope type rail, you can install a single screw or post near the front mount, and then use a ring that clamps to the tube with a V notch in it that indexes on the post or screw. A few old scopes I own use this system, and it works well to return the crosshairs to upright when you pull the scope back.
Not for a project as nice as your's but in support of concept, I'll tell you what I did to introduce an old lady to shooting her single shot 20 ga. shotgun. She had never fired a gun of any type but wanted one to have because crime in her area was launching out of control.
I mounted a 1/2" PVC pipe on her H&R shotgun. It helped her in developing mounting and aiming habits. She became extremely good with the thing and significant practice made her quite formidable. I was very surprised in the almost foolproof nature of the tactic. When removed, her skill set remained and she had become very good with her set up.