Anyone do any trapping here?

[Adam10mm]

Looking to get into trapping. Probably coyote, fox, and whatever else comes along. Need to make money selling furs.

Looking to use the coil spring foothold traps. What are good brands to use? Any outfitter sites to buy from?

Thanks.

[home in oz]

Here is a start to your search: http://www.captaindaves.com/buckshot/

[JIMinPHX]

Most of the leg hold traps that I see are the flat spring type, not coil spring. Conibear is one of the big name brands in traps. Lately I'm seeing more Bridger brand leg hold from Taiwan though. They all seem to work.

The hard part is not getting yourself bit when you go to set them. You really want to set the trigger pretty lite unless you are in an area where a lot of leaves & branches get blown around. Setting them lite means pushing the trigger plate down until it aaaaaaalllllmost goes off. I suggest using a long stick for making that adjustment.

My local Sportsman's Warehouse has the import traps on the shelf. They're probably about $10 or so for a #1, but that's just off the top of my head. I'm probably off by a few bucks one way or the other. I don't know what stores you have up your way. Those things last a long time. The traps that my great grandfather used to use are still serviceable today.

One thing to be sure of is staking them down REAL good. A trapped animal is one motivated little critter when it comes to trying to get out of there. You might be surprised what they are sometimes capable of.

Before you get into doing that sort of thing with an eye towards making money, you might want to check around & see what the price of raw pelts is. I can't seem to find anyone that even want's to pay $5 for a raw Coyote pelt around here.

[Mr Peabody]

You can learn all you need from one of the oldest magazines in the country. It's called Fur-Fish-Game. I started reading it in the mid 60's and haven't quit. There's many advertisers and fur buyers; just type the name in your search engine.

[hickstick_10]

Conibears a body grip trap/kill trap, not exactly a name brand.

Fur fish and game is an excellent magazine so +1.

The money you make will depend on how well you skin and prepare prime pelts as opposed to how many animals you catch.

Easier ways to make extra cash, Mcdonalds is always hiring.

[DIRT Farmer]

When I was younger I traped a lot mainly coon and musrat, some mink and a rare fox. It was a part of growing up here. I still trap for the critters that need removed and will be setting for some beavers that need thined.
Start with your DNR and find the regulations. The best start is to find an old trapper. There are a lot of misconceptions about trapping but it is one of the better tools of wildlife management. You will learn a lot with your first skunk.

[Adam10mm]

Thanks for the info guys. I'll look into that link.

Mostly I hunt/kill coyotes simply for the thrill of a kill but figured to trap them and save the pelts might be better. There's plenty of them here. The area I can trap is private land, 140 acres of farm fields and cedar swamp. My in-laws own it, so I have 24/7/365 access.

These were the kind of traps I was referring to: http://www.fntpost.com/Products/Oneida+Victor+Coil+Spring+Traps/+1+Victor+Coil+Spring+Trap

The local gun shop might have a few traps but I don't know. He's the only gun shop in the county (I'm an FFL too though) and Gander Mountain is 2hrs away. I'll have to order online or put an ad in the paper here or craigslist for traps.

I'm not looking to make a living off trapping, just get some money in my pocket to keep paying on my debts.

The regs are pretty straight forward and surprisingly easy to understand.

I know fox, coyote, bobcat are around. Might find some muskrat by the pond.

[madsenshooter]

I'd run an ad and find some used traps. Amazing how many bunches of them are hanging around in garages and never get used now a days. There's a lot of work in dying and waxing those new traps. Here's an author for you, he's written several books on trapping: Stanley S. Hawbaker.

[Suo Gan]

Call your state Dept of Wildlife and have them send you a brochure of legalities and procedures. The people at F&T should go a long way towards helping you out, I would call them and tell them your situation. Talk to them, buy Hawbakers book http://www.fntpost.com/Categories/Trapping/Books+Videos/Trapping+Books/Trapping+Books+%28Listed+by+Author%29/S.+Stanley+Hawbaker/, which is old, but will tell you the fundamentals. Get a few traps that Stanley recommends, join your state trappers association, talk with trappers in your area, attend some seminars, and you probably will be in fur pretty soon. Another good magazine is Trapper and Predator Caller. As far as used traps go, I consider them, much like once fired brass, a pig in a poke at very best, buyer beware. Realize also that just because it is cold outside does not mean fur is prime...

[home in oz]

Find out too, whether you need to take a "Trapper Education" course, and the various permits needed to trap and sell your catch.

[Adam10mm]

Trapper Ed is optional but the manual is available free online. Nothing needed to sell the hide, just to buy it. I've got a list of buyers in Michigan.

[edsmith]

Almost any of the traps nowdays are ok, the victor is is best but kind of pricey, use the coil spring or bodygrip traps, the long spring takes up more area, always adjust jaw type traps fron the under side,and most bodygrips have a safety hook. do use them, if they don't get some. as for getting bit by a trap, I have been trapping on and off for 60 years, and I have never been bit, I make it a point to never put my hand or fingers where the trap can grab them, also you might want to get some trap setters, on the body grip traps you will need them. you can make them, look at a few catalogs to get an idea. real pain in the butt to set a body grip by hand. Ed

[Trifocals]

There is an amazing lot to learn to become an accomplished trapper. Hawbakers book is a good place to start. Check with your local DNR people to see if they have a state trapper in your area. Most times a state trapper is a person very well versed in trapping skills and will be glad to let a novice tag along as he goes about his job. Also check with fur buyers in your area for names of trappers living near you. Generally trappers will help a newcomer get started. Another good magazine to subscribe to is "The Trapper And Predator Caller". They publish contact information for state trappers associations. They as well as FFG, publish the current trends for fur prices. Very few trappers make there total income from trapping, but use it as an income supplement. Expect an ongoing learning curve, long hours getting dirty and smelly as well as skinning and preparing your furs to sell. You mentioned trapping coyote. They are one of the wariest critters to trap. Probably the easiest critters to start with are muskrat and coon. LOL

[hoosierlogger]

I set traps to catch the neighbors cats...er I mean to catch raccoons. We then turn the coons loose and put a walker pup on their trail. Always wanted to try trapping for pelts, but never had enough time to check them every day.

[woody1]

Anyone do any trapping here?

Not this year

http://www.trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/postlist/Board/1/page/1
http://forum.sullivansline.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi
http://www.nafa.ca/trapper/forecast/2011_WF_Forecast_2010-09-29.pdf
http://trappingtoday.com/index.php/category/fur-prices/

A few places you might want to check out. Good luck. Regards, Woody

[nighthunter]

Freakshow .... I'd like to suggest that you contact the Michigan State Trappers Association. They probably have a web site if you Google it. A membership in a state association usually includes a monthly magazine or newspaper that lists hundreds of dealers of trapping supplies and fur buyers. The information you can gain from these publications is nearly endless. It takes a lot of experience to learn to successfully trap furbearers. Trapping is also a lot of HARD work if you are going to do it on a large enough scale to show a profit. I hope you have success.

Nighthunter

[Bret4207]

Check and see if snares are legal in your state. For coyotes they work great. Ditto on http://www.sullivansline.com for info and FFG.

I've had good sized coyotes take 1.75 traps apart. I finally bit the bullet and bought some MB 650's. This is a very good trap, but they run about $25.00 each. A good #3 coil or longspring will hold a coyote, sometimes a #2 will if laminated and properly adjusted.

You really need to do some research. I suggest any of Charles Dobbins books like "The Dirt Hole and it's variations", "Adjustment of leghold traps", etc. Very good and pretty understandable guides. Watch a few videos on making sets and bedding too. I could never picture just where the coyote stood in relation to the trap and scent/bait till I watched a video. I was always putting my traps way too close to the hole.

This is a very labor intensive hobby with a steep learning curve. I would suggest getting a half dozen 110 body grips for muskrat and a few 1.5 or 1.75 for coon and start there.

[krag35]

I have been a fan of the Montgonery "Dogless" coil springs, don't know if they are still around or not. A 1.75 4 coil makes a good Coyote trap, but the should be center swiveled IMO. I sold most of my traps and got out of it several years ago, was not a money maker. I have a few traps still, part of my SHTF collection. #1 coils for Racoon and smaller, #1.75 coils for Coyotes, and sone # 3 and #4 Long springs for Cats and Beaver. Snaring is another option, lighter, less expensive to get into, and less work to make work in most weather and situations.

[RugerFan]

This is a very labor intensive hobby with a steep learning curve. I would suggest getting a half dozen 110 body grips for muskrat and a few 1.5 or 1.75 for coon and start there.

Good advice. Muscrat and coon are easier to trap. fox/bobcat/coyote are a bit trickier. It would be best if you could find someone to actually show you how it's done. It really is a lot of fun when you start having success.

I caught this gray fox a few days ago. I haven't trapped in years, but my son wanted me to show him how it's done, so I dusted of my old trapping gear. I made one set and caught this rascal in a Victor 1 1/2 double coil with a grappling hook type drag.

http://i331.photobucket.com/albums/l449/wolf913/fox.jpg

[fishhawk]

140 acre's isn't a very big place to trap, the lines i used to run were miles in length. steve k

[The Double D]

Here is something you might want to review http://www.furharvesters.com/saleresults.htm

Don't look at the high price, look at average.

[76 WARLOCK]

Since all the CA refugees moved here they have banned any leg hold traps in CO.

[Dean D.]

Freak, if you have never trapped before you might want to try and find a local mentor.

From past experience I can tell you that fur preparation is the key. You can trap a bunch of critters but if the fur is not fleshed and boarded properly you will be looking at bottom dollar for your fur. It is amazing how much a fur buyer will cut prices on furs that have minor nicks or look greasy. Prime fur handled poorly will only bring bottom dollar at times. Something to think about.

[Mk42gunner]

I'll second adjusting the pan from the bottom. It will still startle you the first few dozen times you go to far and the trap shuts, but at least you shouldn't catch yourself. be careful when covering the pan also; I saw my buddy get a #3 Northwoods jumptrap across his knuckles one day, ouch.

Northwoods and Victor used to be good brands, I don't know for sure who is still making traps. The farm supply stores around here carry a few steel traps for $8.00 and down, which is getting kind of expensive. Placing an ad for used trapping gear sounds like the least expensive option.

We used to spilt straight grained ash to make trap stakes, about 1 1/4" by however long you want to drive into the ground. It is kind of late this year to get everything together, but you could still learn the basics.

Cubby sets work well for coons along creekbanks.

Once you set a longspring trap, you can twist the springs back close to the jaws to make a more compact set.

Be forewarned, running a trapline of any length is a lot of work.

Robert

[scb]

When I was trapping coyote, fox, and bobcats in Colorado I used #4 Newhouse jump traps and Victor #3 long spring traps. We tried coil springs but in freezing weather they proved to be problematic where we were trapping. The #4 was my favorite.

[Adam10mm]

Freakshow .... I'd like to suggest that you contact the Michigan State Trappers Association. They probably have a web site if you Google it. A membership in a state association usually includes a monthly magazine or newspaper that lists hundreds of dealers of trapping supplies and fur buyers. The information you can gain from these publications is nearly endless. It takes a lot of experience to learn to successfully trap furbearers. Trapping is also a lot of HARD work if you are going to do it on a large enough scale to show a profit. I hope you have success.

Nighthunter
I saw their forum and it looked dead so I didn't pursue it further. I'll have to look into it a bit.


Check and see if snares are legal in your state. For coyotes they work great. Ditto on http://www.sullivansline.com for info and FFG.
Snares are legal but there are a host of regs with them. I figure this year is all about researching and I'll try my hand fall of 2011 when the season reopens. Being a "landowner designee" I can trap or hunt coyote on private land (in-laws' farm) without a license.


140 acre's isn't a very big place to trap, the lines i used to run were miles in length. steve k
Not very big, but the beauty of the location being 300y from Lake Superior is the deer herd up in the woods there (like 200 plus deer). That draws in the coyotes to pick off the weak/young and the fox to cleanup the remains. There's a water source nearby, a pond on the property, and plenty of cover. Coyote and fox love to mouse in the hayfields too. Bobcat are harder to find but they're around. I know for hunting you get two free kill tags but I don't know about trapping think it's the same.


Freak, if you have never trapped before you might want to try and find a local mentor.
Hmmm, come to think of it, I think redneckdan traps. I've seen beaver parts laying on the back of his truck. I'll give him a call.


From past experience I can tell you that fur preparation is the key. You can trap a bunch of critters but if the fur is not fleshed and boarded properly you will be looking at bottom dollar for your fur. It is amazing how much a fur buyer will cut prices on furs that have minor nicks or look greasy. Prime fur handled poorly will only bring bottom dollar at times. Something to think about.
Makes sense. Thanks.

[Bret4207]

For coyotes cut some 3/4" rebar stakes about 2 foot long and weld a big nut or washer to the top Your flat swivel or double swivel goes under the nut. A 50-60 lbs coyote can turn the typical 14 ga "trappers wire" on a wooden stake into so much metal confetti in an hour or two.

Nothing worse than finding the trap, the stakes and the coyote gone.

[Adam10mm]

I've been reading about the rebar stakes. Also some have added a double swivel in the chain to allow the trap to turn with the animal, reducing damage and preventing tangles.

That trapper blog is a wonderful source of info. Very cool ideas I will try out for sure.

I'll have to raid my work for some buckets to make some coon traps.

[azcruiser]

used to trap but it was to much of a hassle. When you have to check your traps every day- When I had to carry can spray can of raid and plastic bags and do the old put the dog in the bag and spray to kill the fleas and ticks -Last straw was here in Arizona finding that some illegal alien were
clubbing and eating your catches -or atv riders running traps over -Plus liability insurance questions. But in cold Mich on private land guess it could be different but guessing it's not a money making job when you pay for gas and supplies . Plus you never know what your going to catch I strongly suggest getting a big wicker laundry basket so you can cover up and pull the leg out from under it to release anything you need to set free . Here it those darn javelina are a type of wild pig they get a little angry when traped and you have to let them go .Had a fish and game warden watch me release one said that the basket way worked well he was watching my trap line to make sure it was checked every 24 hrs .That's the rule here.

[dk17hmr]

If your anything like me when you get your traps home you might as well set one and then stick your fingers in and push down the pan, get that out of the way right away so you remember in the field to adjust the pan from the bottom and keep your fingers clear of the jaws.

The guy that would buy the few coons and deer hides I had every year told me if I brought them to him skinned and let his guys do the fleching and stretching, instead of me mess them up I would get a better price, which I ussally just traded him for a couple pairs of buckskin gloves he had in stock in his store.

I really liked trapping, I never had a long line, just 5 or 6 sets behind my parents house but it was fun. I would like to run a trap line out here in Wyoming but Im to busy working and the cost to run a line out here wouldnt be worth it.

[Bret4207]

I've been reading about the rebar stakes. Also some have added a double swivel in the chain to allow the trap to turn with the animal, reducing damage and preventing tangles.

That trapper blog is a wonderful source of info. Very cool ideas I will try out for sure.

I'll have to raid my work for some buckets to make some coon traps.

The double stake swivels on this page are what I was referring to. Very handy.

http://www.minntrapprod.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=215_121


here's the ultimate coyote trap as far as I'm concerned-
http://www.minntrapprod.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=204_596_4&products_id=9

You choose inside or outside laminated, etc.

[firefly1957]

I do a little for pest control have had a problem with cats and dogs getting in them dogs usally pull out of smaller traps cats are feral and are composted. Had trouble in old house with porcupines I caught 6 before I got rid of them.
Those coil spring traps hold real well but I have trouble setting them three years ago one snapped on my thumb I still has a sore spot on the bone.
I bought all my traps at yard sales one lady offered me double back when I told her I was putting them back in use! They range from about two to 6 inches across the jaws and none of them will hold a coyote or bobcat.

[gray wolf]

Keep in mind I think trapping is cool and have friends that are heavy into it.
Years ago I got into trapping Fox, I thought it was great.
I had all kinds of traps, leg hold, tail hold, grab em by the ear hold--you name it.
Made my own sent, I loved it. Caught Mr. Gray fox off guard plenty times.
OK long story short--the end of my trapping day's came one morning When I found a young Coon in one of my leg holds. Not a baby just not a full grown guy.
I walked up to him and was about to send him to Coon heaven. He looked at me and I looked at him, I lowered the 22 RF and got a little closer. He still looked me in the eye
Like he was saying " Now look *** you did " He held his paw up at me like a pet dog.
I swear there was no anger in the Animal and I felt like ****, and that's not like me.
Not that I can't feel like ****, I just never had on the trap line.
I put my gloves on and grabbed the drag that was attached to the chain, and Mr. Coon hopped along behind me for about 10 feet. I found a tree that had forked at the ground and
pulled him into it. His body wouldn't fit through it but I could pull his paw through and work on it. He couldn't reach me with his head.
He just stood there while I released him from the trap. He went up about ten feet into the tree and just licked his paw. I stood under that tree for a while and was not happy with myself. Don't know--guess I just had one of them moments.
I hung my traps in the basement on a nail from one of the floor beams
and never trapped again.
Just me I guess, like I said, I got nothing genst trapping, it's fun and many times needs to be done. But I leave it for the other guy's now.
Just a little story.


Sam

[hickstick_10]

Another thing a good mentor will teach you is HUMANE trapping. Which is a big thing to the fellas who do a fair bit of it. Yet another reason for the trapper education course.

You can do a set wrong, and leave an animal to a mighty miserable death. Or forget about the location or loosing some of the muskrat drowning sets that will keep killing wastefully like an old lobster trap. Coyotes with snare/trap wounds is a pretty upsetting sight.

[Dean D.]

I know what you mean Sam. That is where a good catch pole comes in mighty handy. Try releasing a female bobcat you didn't want to catch... lol

Lots of tips and tricks you pick up as you go through your trapping career.

[Suo Gan]

A 50-60 lbs coyote

Do they really get that big back there? The ones out here have four inches of fur on the bottom, four on top and two inches in between. 40 pounds would be a big one.

[Bret4207]

You'd feel a bit differently after finding 30% of your lamb crop missing Sam. Or find your best, expensive chickens carcasses surrounded by coon tracks. Trapping's not for everyone.

[gray wolf]

Bret4207

By all means yes --I agree with you and have never disagreed. At the time of my little story I had no issue with the animals and they had none with me.
They left me alone and I chose to leave them alone.
BUT,BUT,BUT, What you are talking about is a whole different story.
and I would and have done what is necessary to defend the flock.
I have helped rid a friends chicken and Egg farm of rats. I mean 100 to 150 of them a night when they tried to take over his Egg business, at least 2 times a year.
Had a friend that raised miniature Horses and we had to patrol his farm when the
Little Horses dropped there young. The smell would bring in packs of wiled dogs.
I have seen what one or two Weasel could do to a coop of chickens in one night.
I have put down many Ferrel animals around the camp.
We do what we have to do in order to protect what is ours.
I understand what you are saying 100% and don't have a problem with it.
I also don't have a problem with trapping for sport, none at all.
I just chose not to do it anymore for sport, but I would not hesitate for a second if
If it meant protecting my flock, human or otherwise.
At the moment we have a bad Coy dog problem, they are decimating our Deer.
Friends are trapping and we shoot on site. So I have a small idea of what you are talking about.
Sorry if I gave the wrong impression with my little story.

Your friend

Sam

[Adam10mm]

I've been doing a lot of reading and watching videos.

I think I'll start with foothold traps. There is a farm cat on the property but it usually stays around the buildings and doesn't wander too far from the house and barns. My concern is if I set a conibear, I might get the cat (I couldn't really care less if a cat is trapped, but this one isn't mine so I have to be mindful). If I set a foothold at least I can release it with little injury and send it on its way.

I've been reading some beginner articles on trapping and one theme that seems to be apparent is look for the roadkill in your area to see what animals are being killed. That indicates there are a lot of them and will most likely be the animal trapped. Up here it looks like raccoon and skunk.

[watkibe]

I used to trap succesfully for mostly water-related critters: beaver, muskrat, racoon, and mink. I also tried trapping for coyotes, but I was never successful. I was successful calling and shooting them, though. I sold almost everything I caught either to a local fur buyer or at the annual Trappers Association auction.
Speaking from personal experience, it's pretty darn hard to actually make money trapping. You see, trapping is not free; you have to invest money in fuel for the truck and the boat, and all your supplies like wire and scents, stretchers for your skins, etc. Plus if you value your time, it's way less than minimum wage. The time I spent preparing furs for sale was probably much more than the time I actually spent on the trapline.
I am really glad that I was a trapper. It was a fantastic experience. How many people can say that they trapped nuisance beaver for the Dept of Wildlife , eh ? However, I have no plans to ever start up again. It was hard work, not to mention sometimes dangerous. And I never showed a profit. Trap for fun, but not for money.

[Adam10mm]

I don't factor time for hobbies of mine.

[405]

Looking to get into trapping. Probably coyote, fox, and whatever else comes along. Need to make money selling furs.

Looking to use the coil spring foothold traps. What are good brands to use? Any outfitter sites to buy from?

Thanks.

Kinda wanted to stay out of this thread but "whathehey".
Been a long time, but used to do it to supplement a paltry income and also did it professionally. I do not know the current manufacturers of traps but there is a huge store of older, good traps sitting out there in one and two dozen lot groups in folks' barns, sheds and storage. The problem is finding them. Some WTB classifieds in certain markets could find some. Make no mistake, the standard Victor #3 and #2 double long springs will do most everything you may want to do. Also, there is no doubt the various coil spring models, especially the beefed up double coils are faster in jaw speed but that comes with a price.... to me they were always much more difficult to set and with critters that were trap shy they were very much more difficult to set without wobble. The other big downside to especially the double coil traps with the super high jaw speed is that in areas where you may want to release non-target animals that jaw speed translates into more leg injury. Traps should function not on the theory of jaw closing energy but on the theory of non-reversing HOLDING. Try to use appropriate sized traps. A really strong, fast coil trap that is oversized can cause crippling loss with smaller fur like foxes. Foxes tend to really go hyper when caught, can break a leg with too big a trap then wring out and escape (raccoons and badgers may be worse). Nothing provides more ammo for the anti-trapper crowd than three-legged fur running around or maybe worse, non-target catches with severe injuries. A good chain, grapple drag and something like a # 1.5 single coil or # 2 double long spring is PLENTY for fox. A #2 coil or # 3 double long spring is about right for coyote and bobcats. If you are around water may pay to learn how to use drown sets with the leghold traps- solves lots of problems. Or use conibears if legal for beaver, muskrats, even raccoons ... but very tough to catch coyotes or foxes in conibears!! NO large conibears where pets, kids frequent for obvious reasons.

For strong animals like coyotes I'd forget the trapper's wire or short chain static tie down methods or even stakes with short chains. The best for coyotes in my opinion and experience is about a 6 foot strong kinkless chain and a quality two pronged grapple drag. That way they leave the open trap site and get tangled and hidden after the catch. They will then settle down some and be less visible to two legged trap thieves and vandals. Run leghold traplines daily then you'll have no trouble tracking them down and dispatching them or releasing non-targets with minimal injury. If you use the drag method move slowly as you check because you can walk right on top of a caught fur. By moving slowly you can watch and listen and the animal will get nervous and start moving as you get closer. You just don't want to stumble on top of one.

If you are trapping where you may have to do some release of non-target animals a GOOD catch pole is very handy. And, avoid areas where people frequent while walking their dogs! Nothing gets on the front page of the local paper faster than a picture of a trapped pet! For dispatching trapped fur nothing beats a well sighted-in 22 rifle with a center of brain shot- front on it's just above the eye line and centered. Don't even pay attention to those who may tell you something like, "Don't shoot em, it'll damage the fur, just whack on the nose to stun em then choke em or stomp their chest with yer boot." Trust me, bad plan! Anyway good luck.

[Adam10mm]

Thanks for the tips.

I'll be trapping on private land. I want to get a catch pole just in case. Not interested in dealing with certain animals, but they might be better off killed and used as bait or simply fertilizer. I have a taxidermist friend that might be looking for something too.

Thinking of trying some conibears in the bucket set for raccoon and a few foothold traps for fox and coyote. Michigan's snare regs are a PITA so I'm not going to bother. Also going to try one of those "dog proof" coon traps that work like a Chinese finger trap (pull out it constricts). For coyotes, I read a lot of guys use 30 inch rebar stakes and double stake them.

I have an old Stevens bolt action tube fed .22 LR rifle I'll be using for trapping kills. Going to have the barrel turned down a bit to lighten the weight and refinishing the stock after I repair the split a bit better. Was my grandfather's gun.

I'll be able to check traps twice a day if needed (state law is once every 48hrs in the UP only; 24hrs in the LP).

I found a guy at work that used to trap. Said he made a pitchfork tool with two prongs to pin their head down at the neck. He would put their head on the ground and get a brain shot through the ear. Claimed to never have a standard velocity 22LR exit the skull.

[Dean D.]

Also going to try one of those "dog proof" coon traps that work like a Chinese finger trap (pull out it constricts).

There used to be a trap sold called an "Egg Trap". I've used them and they work awesome for Coon. Basically a plastic egg shaped device with a hole in one end and a cable on the other end to anchor it. Bait goes inside and when they try to reach in and get it the trap trips and pins their paw inside. They worked great baited with marshmallow and strawberry jam. The thing I loved about them was they were very species specific, not much chance of catching anything other than a raccoon.

[Bret4207]

Do they really get that big back there? The ones out here have four inches of fur on the bottom, four on top and two inches in between. 40 pounds would be a big one.

Sorry I'm late, yes, and larger. Ours have wolf DNA in the blood according to the experts. A typical dog might run 45, a big one...well you hear stories of 100 lbs but I think 65-70 is more like it. 75 lbs would be exceptional. probably one located near a carcass dump off a large dairy.

[Adam10mm]

There used to be a trap sold called an "Egg Trap". I've used them and they work awesome for Coon. Basically a plastic egg shaped device with a hole in one end and a cable on the other end to anchor it. Bait goes inside and when they try to reach in and get it the trap trips and pins their paw inside. They worked great baited with marshmallow and strawberry jam. The thing I loved about them was they were very species specific, not much chance of catching anything other than a raccoon.
Yeah, the egg trap. That's what they call those. Good to hear they work well.

[405]

freakshow,
If raccoons are your primary target then there are numerous options... even large live traps like the Havahart-type will work and provide the most options for release of non-target animals. Raccoons are not difficult to catch. If you decide to set some steel traps and your targets are fox and coyote..... still the #2 double longspring for fox and the # 3 double longspring for coyote are the best I found. Now if you get into those coydog or coywolf hybrids that's a different story. Those things may be the most destructive predators out there for both livestock and other wildlife. A 75lb coywolf would be the worst possible combo- adaptive like a coyote and big like a wolf- yikes!

Forgot to mention in the earlier post that when you see those rusty junk traps hanging around in antique stores.... many are nothing more than modern types left over from the fur boom of the 1970s and 80s. Also, if you get a chance to snoop around, try to find an example of one of the "coyote" Govt traps from the early to mid-1900s.... most will be "modern" type like the 3N Victor but will be set up in the right way- some may even be the older, more valuable Newhouse. Most will have riveted frames and pans, cast and rounded jaws with an offset built in. They will have long kinkless chains attached to the trap with a strong link and a heavy barrel swivel. They will have either an Ayers-type dognot heavy stake or a heavy two prong grapple. Without a doubt they were the most effective, durable and practical coyote catching system ever developed.... much superior ethically to the most effective canine poison known, 10-80, and much safer than the cyanide device called the Coyote Getter.

If you do get some steel traps of whatever kind and they are not offset, it is a good idea to either file or grind the jaw mating surfaces for a small amount of offset (1/8-3/16") and to a rounded profile. Also when looking/shopping for traps, be aware the numbering system was/is not standardized. That's why I refer to sizes specifically like the #2 or #3 double long springs for the foxes or coyotes. About 1970 a whole host of modern coil spring traps hit the market. Most if not all were larger in jaw spread than the same numbered long spring traps. The #1 1/2 coils were about the same spread as the #2 dbl longsprings and the #2 coils were about like the # 3 dbl longspings and so on.

In the end- experienced, ethical, local trappers will be your best source for information on equipment, seasonal fur quality (prime fur), fur handling, marketing and techniques.

[10 ga]

Longtime trapper. If you're in it for the $, 140 acres will only make you weep. That would be a good start for a kid to learn on in the out of school holidays but... In order to make any decent $ you need lots of territory to trap, lots of traps and lots of experience. Otherwise it's just a hobby or pastime that can pay it's own way but profit? You got all the links you need to pursue but get some copies of the trapping magazines to get a real hint of how to trap. I have about 25 years worth of copies of 3 different mags. If you want some shoot me a PM. 10 ga

[Mk42gunner]

One other thing I thought of. Skin any coyotes you get before they cool down to much. It always seemed to me that it was about 30 bazillion times easier to skin a warm coyote than a stiffened up or frozen one.


Robert

[JIMinPHX]

Funny, I go the other way when skinning coyotes. I wait a while, then slit the skin at an ankle, then stick a compressed air gun in there & blow them up like a balloon. After that, the skin just falls off.

[Adam10mm]

Longtime trapper. If you're in it for the $, 140 acres will only make you weep. That would be a good start for a kid to learn on in the out of school holidays but... In order to make any decent $ you need lots of territory to trap, lots of traps and lots of experience. Otherwise it's just a hobby or pastime that can pay it's own way but profit?
There is quite a bit of game nearby and on the property. I'm not in it for the money as a priority. I just hope to trap and sell enough fur to pay for the traps. This isn't going to be my living, just extra income to save up for a rainy day fund.

[Mk42gunner]

Funny, I go the other way when skinning coyotes. I wait a while, then slit the skin at an ankle, then stick a compressed air gun in there & blow them up like a balloon. After that, the skin just falls off.

I'll have to try that the next time I get a coyote. Back when I was coyote hunting a lot, I didn't have an air compressor handy.

Robert

[JIMinPHX]

I throw an air caddy in the back of the truck before I go. I don't usually wander off all that far from the truck when I go coyote hunting.