Auto Ejector - Who knows anything about this?

[BwBrown]

I saw some pic of these some months ago. Reading here on this site, as well as THG, a fellow was selling plans to them. I have sent PM's to him and a few others, but no response.

I would be happy to buy plans for these. Might be interesting to put some together for us swagers, old and new.

Bob

[ReloaderFred]

I bought the plans from him a couple of years ago, but never built one, as I don't have the machinery necessary. I had some of the C-H style ejectors made that work for me. I'll see if I can remember where I put those plans and let you know.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[BT Sniper]

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/P1030097.jpg

http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu87/BTSniper/P1030552-1.jpg

How about this one?

[ANeat]

A setup like BT's is a long proven design.

Here is the same thing Swagerman (RIP) whipped up for his Classic Cast (2005)

http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=1829&highlight=classic

http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/picture.php?albumid=153&pictureid=2969

[sargenv]

Yep, BT's works pretty darn good.. I went from 13 to 23 per minute with my 9's into 40's just installing the ejector..

[dragonrider]

I've seen the one in BWBrown's post before, I may be wrong but I think Swagerman may have made something like it. ? about it, as you are using effort to swage the boolit you are also using effort to compress the spring, yes.? Do these two efforts create considerably more effort when combined in use when swaging?? Thus making swaging good boolits harder to achieve. I like BTSNIPERS
design in that the energy use to compress the spring is translated to the downstroke to eject the boolit. IMO this method puts two energies to more efficient use. Meaning they are not opposing energies. Make sense or am I wasting brain cells.???

[BwBrown]

If I'm guilty of anything, it is over-thinking, anticipating the arrival of my dies. My S press is set up and ready, and I've been reading and (hopefully) learning for what seems like months.

I have looked at both designs. Each has strengths.
The design shown on BT's press does indeed split the forces into both the up and down stroke, while the spring ejector would require more effort in the swaging operation - that spring looks pretty hefty!

The issue I'm guessing could be the design of my S press. There is precious little space between the upright guides (barely a few inches), and it would appear (in my mind) that it could get congested in there, especially for those of us who are a bit more ham handed than others.

A second issue could be the time difference in changing dies. The spring ejector could be produced in numbers and left on each die.

I am anxious to:

1) see the plans/specs for the "springy thingy."

2) get my "hand on the handle" and actually squish some lead into cores and try each one.

Bob

[BwBrown]

Fred,

If you find the plans, I'd be happy to buy them from you, or maybe work out a trade. I do have access to some machines.

Bob

[RP]

Just getting into swagging as soon as my dies get here Iam sure I have alot of ? just dont want to start with them until I get hands on time. The more I look here the fewer ? I have but one thing I cant get a stg answer on is annealing cases. Some are just heating and some are heating and then water cooling. If I understand it right if you dont water quench your cases they dont soften up as much. Any one seen a clear answer on this.

[BT Sniper]

Doesn't matter on the water quinching vs. air cooling for annealing. Each produces same results just one cools the case a bit faster is all :)

When you do anneal just make sure the case glows a bit. I like dirrect flame of some sorts.

BT

[BwBrown]

Annealing is changing the strength of metal with heat and controlled cooling.

Ferrous metals - iron based, steel, etc:
To harden you heat then quench with water or oil, some blends of steel are air hardening.
To soften, or anneal, you heat to a specific lower temp, then cool slowly.

Non-Ferrous metals - brass, copper, aluminum, etc
To harden - these metals work harden, bending, forge, hammer, swage etc. Cases harden a little each time they are sized.
To soften, or anneal, you heat to a temperature approaching 1/2 melting temp, then cool. With non-ferrous metal, it does not matter how fast you cool it.


This much I know - and this question is way Off Topic:
What I DON'T UNDERSTAND, is the claim that cast lead bullets, dropped from the mold into water get harder!?!
Lead is non-ferrous - or is there some other quality about lead that allows it to harden when quenched in water like an iron based ferrous alloy ?

Bob

[teddyblu]

Yes It is alloyed with antimony, arsenic, and tin.
Larrys

[NoZombies]

Yup, it's the alloying agents that allow lead to harden.

[a.squibload]

I like BT's so much I kinda STOLE it!

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23672&d=1279095464

Not necessary to remove auto-ejector to change dies.

[BT Sniper]

Yep that will work. Notice the lonely hammer now laying unused on the bench :)

Swage On!

BT

[a.squibload]

I use that to keep the cats off me!

[scrapcan]

The spring box type ejector was also Swagerman, Jim passed away awhile back, he was a great guy.

I thought another member here made them for Jim. It may have been Sundog, but not sure.

[b2riesel]

I built an auto ejector based on the one BT has pictured above. I have a problem with mine though. On the upstroke...I'm moving away from the point of the linkage that has all the leverage and it is tough for me to kick out he boolit unless I mount the bottom plate really low on the ram and leave just enough room between the bottom punch and the mouth of the dies to get the core to set on top of the punch.

I use a Rock Chucker IV and there is a lot of travel in the linkage. It's all one big case iron piece but do I need to make another bottom linkage piece and make the hole closer to the ram to decrease the travel of the ram and increase my sweet spot for my swaging? Or do I need to install a longer handle to get leverage that way?

Thanks for your help guys...You guys have really opened my eyes up so far to what is possible and I'm having a hell'uva good time.

[a.squibload]

Think the Springy Thingy would take some of the "feel" out of swaging?
Seems like a lot of spring force would be necessary to kick the boolits out of the die,
and that force has to be applied while swaging to "set" the spring.


B2:
I was just looking at my old RC and wondering about moving the hole,
if the RC4 is built the same way I'm not sure how easy it would be,
or if there would be clearance.
I guess you could grind away the tab where the original hole is.
Not sure if you would get enough added leverage to make it worth it!

Just re-read your post, if you are making a whole new link it could work.

I just "moved the hole" on my Lee Classic Cast, I can feel the leverage improvement
but the travel is a lot less.
When the ram is down I just have room to insert a 44 boolit.

One thing that really helps is to lube each round!
If you forget to lube one it really lets you know, gets real hard to pull out of the die.
Some of the force on the handle tries to lift the reloading bench (I screwed mine to the wall).

Edit: Sorry to run on, here's my LCC in another thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?p=1263621#post1263621

[gabe123]

OK I have got to say this is a great site for someone new to get info!!
I was looking for an ejector system for Corbin R dies and I found 2 threads. I had found the same photo with the spring ejector and thought it wiould be pretty neat.

ReloaderFred, I would be interested to know if you found the plans for this device or where I could obtain one. And cost for either.
It sure sems like there are lots of mechanically talented folks on this site.

thanks:bigsmyl2:

[Utah Shooter]

May be mistaken but I think the thread you got the ejector from was started and made by Swagerman (RIP). I may be wrong however.

[kenjuudo]

The spring box type ejector was also Swagerman, Jim passed away awhile back, he was a great guy.

I thought another member here made them for Jim. It may have been Sundog, but not sure.

Jim's original design used a long tube to house the spring. the problem was getting a strong enough spring that would fit in a reasonable length of tubing. I helped him out by modifying his idea to the spring box, building him half a dozen along with the tooling needed for the calibers and boolit styles he wanted.

It's simply a piece of 2"x4" tubing, a soft punch blank, a 1" gold die spring, stop collar and a 5/8-18 bolt. The punch blank is threaded to accept the nose forming tool, and releaved for the stop collar.

jim

[scrapcan]

kenjuudo,

I have been looking for your input on this as I just found the old post where you made those for swagerman.

Thanks for weighing in.

[ReloaderFred]

I sent a copy of the plans that I bought from Jim to BWBrown. He's going to make some as soon as he gets his shop built.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[BwBrown]

Man, the pressure is building!

I do expect to have some of these this summer. The springs are available in a million (well, maybe half) strengths. I'm thinking they can be "custom tuned" to the particular dies/calibers being swaged.

Should not be too expensive to make. I'm looking forward to the project, maybe I will have something constructive to contribute for a change. It would be nice to be able to make a contribution.
Bob

[kenjuudo]

Man, the pressure is building!

I do expect to have some of these this summer. The springs are available in a million (well, maybe half) strengths. I'm thinking they can be "custom tuned" to the p[articular dies/calibers being swaged.

Should not be too expensive to make. I'm looking forward to the project, maybe I will have something constructive to contribute for a change. It would be nice to be able to make a contribution.
Bob

Nothing weaker than a Gold (high pressure) die spring was effective in that particular setup. about 500 lbs. at 30% deflection. Around $4 in smaller quantities. Caliber didn't matter, .357, .44, 45...same same. Weaker springs wouldn't return without a tap to overcome the inertia of the swelled slug.

jim

[BwBrown]

While still in the mental planning stage, I've been conjecturing that a stronger die spring might be needed for longer rifle caliber, especially bore sizes .30 and up, bullets. I won't know for sure until I actually get my hands on some real life parts.

We'll keep in touch - I appreciate your information - any more thoughts about these things?
Bob

[gabe123]

BwBrown
Would it matter what kind of dies are used? I am planning on ordering the Corbin R dies. I do not know much about swaging but am learning quite alot on this forum.
Thanks Gabe:coffee:

[BwBrown]

Actually everything matters: annealed brass or not, hardness of the lead core, caliber of the bullet being made, length of the bullet, point shape, type and amount of lube...

Beyond all these variables I have no more information until I actually start playing with them.
Bob