Linotype in Lee Molds?

[Krieger82]

Wish I had found this group/site a year or two ago. Started casting with a manual in the blind, been a fairly trying process. I've gotten decent enough to cast shootable boolits with all of my molds. Sometimes, if I wink the right way I can get real gems that cast size and weight perfect right out of the mold.
I am still at the entry level point, with a whole set of Lee molds, smelter, sizers, etc. Not enough money for the higher end stuff. I have two 55 gallon drums full of linotype. tried just using that, but didn't go well, so I cut the stuff down to a BHN 14-16 and normally can get good results. lately though, i thought i'd try again with pure linotype (want some higher velocity boolits for my surplus guns, just for experimentation).
I've tried three or four sets of casting and I CANNOT get those molds to throw good casts with pure Lino. i've tried anywhere from 500-700 temp, fluxed the stuff good, prayed to any number of foul gods, different hold speeds for the casts, nothing seems to work. they come out with lines, blemishes, etc (normally very small, but enough to be rejects). Anyone else had this experience? My old man uses Lyman molds exclusively, says Lee's aluminum molds just don't retain heat well enough, he uses pure linotype all the time. Any thoughts?

[2wheelDuke]

I think your best bet would be to ingotize and sell or trade some of that lino for softer lead. Mix that linotype with pure lead to make casting alloy. Rotometals says that their "hardball" alloy is basically 50% linotype and 50% pure lead.

I'm not quite an expert at this, but I'd think a mix like that would be good for rifle boolits and high speed pistol boolits. You could probably go 2 or 3 parts pure per 1 part of lino for lower speed handgun.

[LongPoint]

Howdy,

Have you tried running a Bic lighter flame in the cavities? Just a second or so, it don't take long. Seems I read on a forum or two ago, it insulates the melt from the mold metal just a little giving a little better fillout before it freezes. Whatever it does, I'm glad it does it. If it don't work, it don't cost much. If it does work, don't say anything or be prepared for the a## eating of your life by some folks here. Welcome and Good Luck.

LongPoint

[Rangefinder]

Several things come to mind. "smoking' the mold is good, but before that, make sure it is extremely clean. A good dunk in boiling water, a little dawn dish soap, etc. Even the faintest amount of oil residue will make a mess out of any would-be great looking boolit. Also, are you preheating your molds? And if so, are you preheating hot enough? A cold mold will not fill out well no matter how hot you get your alloy. It should take about 5-6 seconds for your sprew to solidify if your mold is at good running temp.

Welcome aboard, BTW!-

[madsenshooter]

Lino cools from it's liquid state very quickly. Increase the temp to increase the time it takes to solidify. Don't be afraid of 800-825. Aluminum molds have a higher thermal coefficient than steel or brass. They transfer heat quicker, both the heat from the molten lead into the mold block, and the heat to the outside air out of the moldblock.

[leadman]

Although a Bic lighter will work to smoke your mold be very careful around hot metal with it. These turn into mini bombs. A stick match works as well and much safer.
Sounds like your mold is not hot enough if you are casting good bullets with your other alloy.

[shotman]

you are going to mess up good molds Al molds will NOT stand the hi temp lino is not a good chioce by its self. mix 50 -50 wheel w and you will get a hard B and get KROIL

[deltaenterprizes]

Where are you? There may be some members close to you willing to help!

[Tazman1602]

Krieger82 --

Cut the linotype 50/50 with wheel weights man, heat up the Lee mold on a hotplate before you cast, and if you're having problems with "wrinkly" bullets, cast fast to keep the heat up until the bullets get "frosty" then back off a bit.

I've had best results with smoke by using kitchen matches although a bic lighter works just as well -- if you're not having problems dropping the bullets it probably won't help much.

Pure Lino is too hard for most shooting. I mix 75/25 WW/Lino and they are plenty hard for driving to 2200fps with gas checks.

Keep talking to us, we'll get you straightened out but hang on to your wallet man! You've got the addiction now!

Art

[Krieger82]

Yeah, I got the bug for sure....Now that the weather has gotten cool and wet, been sitting over the smelter for hours fiddling around, looking at other molds etc. I'll try some of your recs on the pure stuff and see what happens, then try cutting the mixture down to a lower BHN. Try and get pics to so it'll be easier to see what i'm dealing with. As for the tape thing, yeah, i'd definitely get someone with a camera to help...that would be particularly hilarious to see.

[Krieger82]

Oh, and I live in SW Washington

[runfiverun]

just get your mold hotter

[Echo]

Krieger, rest your mold on top of the pot as it warms up. And what the others have said is right on. I'm guessing you mold is too cold - but then it can also get too hot! When I find the sprues breaking when I cut them, I figure the mold is too hot, and turn it upside down on a sopping wet rag and let it steam for a few seconds. I have the most problems this way with 6-banger Al molds. They hold a lot of alloy, and get hot fast, and when casting fast, the mold CAN get too hot. But I don't think that is your trouble - It appears that your mold is too cold, if I read you right.

[Papa Jack]

Interesting Thread... I cast my FIRST Lino today. I wouldn't call it a success . I was using my new Ranch Dog 6 cavity .432-265 mould and a new Lee 30cal 170 grn FP mould...
I have had wrinkle problems all weekend ( with Lead/Tin alloys) , scrubbing and de-greasing haven't helped much. I did infact remove the "smoke" from the cavities when I cleaned em for the 5th time.
The Lino was I thought hot enough, Lyman thermometer said over 700*F, I had a big mess of pop corn looking slag on top the molten metal. I fluxed several times with Marvelux, couldn't get it to mix so I left it there to cover the metal.
I was using brand new LINO, out of the packages...( type letters..)
Wrinkles, the lube grooves were all messed up, but they came out of the moulds OK....
I think next session I will mix the Lino with some WW's or Sheet lead and see if it helps. And add a little light smoke to the mold cavities........
Sorry to jump in here, not my thread ....thanks for the info ! Papa Jack

[MtGun44]

Geez, don't waste the lino on PISTOL boolts! Cut it 50-50 with pure lead and you
will have a great alloy. Trade or sell some of that valuable lino.

Hotter and cleaner. Scrub the mold with Comet and a toothbrush run hot.

Bill

[Rangefinder]

Geez, don't waste the lino on PISTOL boolts! Cut it 50-50 with pure lead and you
will have a great alloy. Trade or sell some of that valuable lino.

I second that! Really, straight WW alloy makes great pistol bullets, even diluted a little works wonders. Lino is a precious alloy rich in antimony that goes a long way in sweetening softer alloys. Using it straight is kinda like chugging pure southern moonshine right out of the jug--it just hurts to even think about! But you'll get a lot more pleasure out of it by cutting it with a little lemonade, coke, ice tea, etc. :D

[HangFireW8]

W
I've tried three or four sets of casting and I CANNOT get those molds to throw good casts with pure Lino. i've tried anywhere from 500-700 temp, fluxed the stuff good, prayed to any number of foul gods, different hold speeds for the casts, nothing seems to work. they come out with lines, blemishes, etc (normally very small, but enough to be rejects). Anyone else had this experience? My old man uses Lyman molds exclusively, says Lee's aluminum molds just don't retain heat well enough, he uses pure linotype all the time. Any thoughts?

Put away the false idols, Lee-ment the mold, preheat the mold AND the sprue plate substantially, turn up the pot to 740, cast a few and do the bull-plate thing, once it starts casting turn down the pot a bit and keep going.

-HF

[Cowboy T]

+1 to turning up the pot a bit, and that's regardless of your alloy. I've got a mould that is not happy until it hits 800 deg, but when I get it there, the mould gives perfect boolits every time. Another one is happiest at 750, another one at 650. Depends on the specific model of mould. BTW, this is with either wheel weights or a 50/50 lead/Lino mix. Straight Linotype should behave similarly.

[Jech]

Hello Krieger82 and welcome to the forum! I'm in The Dalles, OR...as the crow flies, how far away might you be? Maybe we could work together a bit.

From your original post, it sounds like you just aren't running the alloy and mould hot enough. I have some experience dropping lino from Lee 6-bangers as well as lee-menting both 2 and 6 cavity versions, what have you done to true up the moulds before casting?

[leadman]

Cut your alloy with pure and drop your bullets in water. A bullet does not need to be real hard to shoot well if it fits the throat properly. Waterdropped wheel-weight alloy works well for me in 30 caliber up to at least 2,400 fps. with no leading and great accuracy.
I only use lino if I want to shoot 22 cal. at 3,000 fps.