Star sizer air mod

[Tmaloy]

Hi all,

I have been pm'ing Frozone about his theory on pressurizing the Star sizer lube body for an air feed of the lube. Thanks to Frozone and my shooting buddy Rudy who had a lathe for coming up with a prototype. I have uploaded a video to youtube. I am looking for input on and suggestions so we can get something going. Any comments appreciated.

Here is the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04oGfv_iOMQ

[Ugluk]

Very clever sir!
I'd be all over that if I didn't already have the air cylinder.

A good instructional video too.

[Tmaloy]

Thanks Ugluk,Frozone should get most of the credit I just assembled what he mentioned in a forum post and made a prototype. I am drawing up a sketch of a internal plunger that I would like to try in it also. Maybe it will help improve the operation a bit more.

[Tmaloy]

Hi all,

I have finalized modifications to my Star Sizer for pressurizing the lube reservoir. This addition does not require plugging the vent hole on the lube reservoir. I have uploaded another video to youtube for details.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRW1meXnT_s

I will be giving it a full testing when I cast some boolits this weekend.

This is a list of parts used that I was able to find at the local Home Depot.

Air Pressure Regulator $16.79
Male to Male 1/4" air fitting $1.99
5/8X18tpi bolt $2.75
Male to Female Swivel 1/4" air fitting with quick disconnect $12.99 (Optional if you already have other fittings)
Fluidmaster Tank to Bowl Repair Kit Part #6101 $2.99
O-rings 50¢ for the one inside the lube cap. On the bolt head 23¢ (It would be best to bring the bolt and lube cap and match up for the best fit.)

Please bear in mind that I'm in Guam, and these are common parts that most major places should have.

Of course Harbor Freight or another budget hardware store may have all these items for cheaper.

The youtube videos have the instructions on how I assembled everything, but if you know someone with a lathe or if there is a machine shop nearby they should be able make the tapped bolt or machine a one piece unit for you. I am going to ask my shooting buddy Rudy to make a one piece part out of either brass or aluminum when he has the time. When that is done I will post some dimensions for a one piece part.

Now I need to learn how to use the Star with an air lube feed.:-D

[garandsrus]

Tmaloy,

Great video's... I had always wondered what purpose the air cylinder served. It looks like none... I plan to make one of these :) The only thing I think I will do differently is to add a quick disconnect between the cap bolt and regulator. This will allow me to easily remove the regulator assembly and hoses as one unit. Then only the cap will turn.

John

[Tmaloy]

Hi John,

I'm glad you liked the videos sorry for the poor quality but I used my iphone and shot it with one hand while demonstrating how it all came together. Maybe we can sticky this for the other forum members.[smilie=1:

Your mention of using the disconnect in another location is a great idea. It may even cost you less to build!!! Hope you have as much fun making yours as I did mine.

Troy

[HATCH]

The air cylinder was just a plunger.
Sucks I already ordered a air cylinder, but glad it was only $30.

I wonder if you can retrofit this design to lyman 45/450 style.
Just have to figure out how to attach a sealed cap to the top.

[Tmaloy]

The air cylinder was just a plunger.
Sucks I already ordered a air cylinder, but glad it was only $30.

I wonder if you can retrofit this design to lyman 45/450 style.
Just have to figure out how to attach a sealed cap to the top.

Hi HATCH,

I hate to say this but I just threw an old Lyman sizer in the trash because it was trashed. I'll go pull it out and see if I can think something up for you. I can't make any guarantees though, but I'll try.

Troy

[Tmaloy]

Hi HATCH,

I just thought of a way to possibly get a pressure feed for the Lyman, it's 2:42am here on Guam. So I need to get some sleep. I'll give your more details as soon as I refine what I have come up with so far.

Troy

[Springfield]

The air cylinder DOES serve a purpose, as a reserve air tank. If you run your Star from a non-tanked compressor like I do(I use a small 250 psi compressor from Sears) you will need the Magma air cylinder. The official Magma air cylinder also uses the original plunger seal but without the spring, so you can fit about 50% more lube in the tube. The same air tube Magma uses can be bought from McMaster-Carr. There are many ways to do the same thing.

[Frozone]

The air cylinder DOES serve a purpose, as a reserve air tank. If you run your Star from a non-tanked compressor like I do(I use a small 250 psi compressor from Sears) you will need the Magma air cylinder. The official Magma air cylinder also uses the original plunger seal but without the spring, so you can fit about 50% more lube in the tube. The same air tube Magma uses can be bought from McMaster-Carr. There are many ways to do the same thing.

There is no difference in the air cylinder and the one created by using the sizer tube. both are a sealed tube with piston. Great wet blanket job, Springfield. You can only fill it with lube to the vent hole either way.

Track down an old scuba tank (paintball)/reg set and you have a non compressor air source that will last for years! A dive shop will fill that bottle for ~ $6.

[garandsrus]

I want to use a portable air tank without a compressor. It just seems like a better way to go for this application. For a tank, I was thinking that either a paintball air tank or even an empty small propane tank would work, the kind you use for a hand held torch. The paintball tank would probably be better as there would not be any residual gases other than maybe CO2, which wouldn't matter.

John

[Tmaloy]

I will be testing out a theory concerning the vent port, mainly I am wondering if when the lube reservoir is almost out of lube, the top of the plunger will release the air pressure through the vent port, hence letting you know that you need to refill with lube. Kind of like an early warning system.

Also, if you pressurize the lube body and place a cutoff before the disconnect wouldn't that hold the pressure already contained in the body?

[HATCH]

thats the same deal with a air cylinder.
If you have a cut off at the top of the air cylinder then it would hold pressure as well.


But if you always keep a boolit in the sizer then it should keep pressure 24/7/365

[Tmaloy]

Hi all,

I was casting some boolits today, about 1000 9mm and when I was almost finished I heated up my Star. The air pressure held steady and I had no problems with my setup right till I was down to the last 20 boolits, at that time I heard a slight hissing noise coming from my sizer, the top of the plunger had gone below the vent port. I finished up the last 20 as the sound got louder with each stroke. Finished with the sizing, I disconnected the air and went to place a new stick of lube into the reservoir. I grabbed my last stick of Magma red lube and put it in the tube. I seated it with the plunger and found that I still had about of inch of lube in the tube. I removed the lube stick and placed it back in a baggie for next time. So if you use this system, when you hear the hissing noise it will mean you have only that much lube left. In the future I will be trimming my lube sticks to about 3" so I won't have a problem with seating the plunger in the body.

I like the idea that the vent port gives you that much space to let you know that your just about out. When I drop a new trimmed stick in and re-pressurize the tube it will have time to warm up and soften.

All in all, I am happy with how this has all turned out. For the record I had no leakage of air at all for the sizing session till the lube ran short. Now I gotta finish up that Magma lube and get my Carnauba Red on order.

Hatch, I came up with something for the Lyman and will try and get something drawn up in the next couple of days. It will take minor machining to make the parts but does not modify the Lyman at all and will use solid sticks of lube. I will post it when I finish my drawing.

Happy Thanksgiving and Regards to all,
Troy

[HATCH]

I got my Star in on Saturday.
I am awaiting one part to attach my Air Cylinder to it.

If I were to pressurize the star using your method then I would use a hose clamp and a piece of rubber to block off the vent tube.
Then I would increase the amount lube that I put in the cylinder.

The Star is pretty impressive when it comes to reloading. I had 600 41 mag boolits casted up and I had them done in a hour after setting everything up.

Whats funny is that the Lyman universal heater has threaded holes that match up to the Star yet doesn't have any threaded holes to match up to the Lyman 45!

[Tmaloy]

The Star is a great sizer, here's a little history on mine, it was originally owned by my shooting buddy's uncle, my shooting buddy is also the one who helped me machine the air adapter.

The Star came in from San Diego brand new in the 50's, along with a Star reloader and was quickly put to use for sizing boolits for bullseye shooting. In 1973 a young guy by the name of Jeff Nelsen offered to buy it and he started to use it to start up his reloading and shooting range business, in the mid 80's, it was bought by another person who also had a small reloading business. He retired it in the late 90's after getting some commercial casting and sizing equipment. I was picking up some powder from there and noticed it sitting on a shelf. I asked about it and he didn't really want to sell it since it was such an old piece from the original manufacturer. I told him it would rust away if nobody used it. He took it down off the shelf and started playing with the handle and checking the parts and everything was working like it should. He told me 100 bucks and its yours. I paid him and off I went to pick up a couple of molds from my shooting buddy Rudy. I told him I just picked it up and he took a look at it. He gave me an odd look and told me that he used to watch his uncle Ernie load for his bullseye guns with boolits run through this sizer when he was a kid back in the 60's. He also taught Rudy alot about reloading and shooting, in fact I was there to pick up two molds he inherited from his uncle after his passing. A H&G 4 cav #68 and a Saeco 8 Cav 230 RN mold. We kind of thought it was funny that this sizer had come full circle after changing a few hands and sizing boolits it used to back in the day. Rudy even showed me his uncle's .38 Special Colt 1911 bullseye gun that uses the DEWC seated into the case.

All in all the Star I have now has sized who knows how many boolits and is still working without fail every time. I was thinking about cleaning it up and painting it, but that would take away from its character. Here I am with a tool that has stood up to the test of time and is still ready for more. Like I said in my video, "A testament to the durability and reliability of the Star". I'm sure this thing will outlast me.

[cajun shooter]

The weep hole may be covered with nothing but the solid part of a hose clamp. No rubber or anything else is needed.

[Springfield]

Frozone: I said the air cylinder serves a purpose IF you don't have a pressurized tank. I don't. I didn't say it was required for everyone. I run my Star off a small Sears tire inflator compressor. It goes to 200 psi and takes up almost no room. And I don't ever need to worry about running out in the middle of a large sizing session and the local tank refiller is closed 'cause it is a holiday or midnight or whenever. I prefer to be more self sufficient. And in the long run my 29.99 compressor will pay for itself as I will never have to pay anyone to fill my tank. And I CAN fill my lube past the vent hole, not sure what you were talking about. I can get 6" lube sticks in my Star, and I can use the whole thing, not run out with an inch of lube to go when the seal passes the vent. I do mostly Big Lube groove Blackpowder bullets, and I really prefer to not be changing out the lube stick every 125 rounds like the 3" stick would have me do. Anyone who wants to run their Star with a remote tank, fine, I just like my system better for how I do things. As this site proves every day, there is more than one way to do most anything.

[AbitNutz]

So this is an inexpensive replacement for the air pressure system that Magma sells for a $100.00?

[Tmaloy]

So this is an inexpensive replacement for the air pressure system that Magma sells for a $100.00?

Yes, this is more of a do it yourself project, if you have an air compressor or air tank it emulates the Magma air cylinder.

[D Crockett]

well I got the chance to get to Lowes today got all but 2 parts for the set up had to go on a a friends house stop by a hardware store they had the other 2 parts I needed so the machine parts are not needed you just have to mix and match the whole thing cost me $23 and change I do want to thank those involved in the brain work and for sharing all there knowledge they have saved me a lot of time D Crockett

[D Crockett]

I started on the air tank today really did not like the compressor running in the house or I should say the wife did not like it got all but one thing for it out of my junk box so far total cost is $0.00 and I like that D Crockett

[Tmaloy]

D Crockett, could you post the the parts you used to a make a completely bolt in setup for the other members that are looking to do the same? If you found a bushing that fits into the lube cap that would be the the most important part of the upgrade to the Star for air pressurization.

Troy

[Bob J]

D Crockett, could you post the the parts you used to a make a completely bolt in setup for the other members that are looking to do the same? If you found a bushing that fits into the lube cap that would be the the most important part of the upgrade to the Star for air pressurization.

Troy

Troy, I built mine like you recommended earlier using the threaded section of a disassembled pressure coupling I picked up at harbor freight...

Bought a Vermont American die off of amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CD1MRU/ref=oss_product) for just under $7 and used it to rethread it to 5/8-18. If you take it slow and use a good amount of cutting oil it rethreads pretty cleanly and now fits the Star Lube cap very nicely.....

Still thinking how I want to supply pressure..... Space is very much an issue so I really need to think this through.... Have been thinking it would be awesome if I could adapt a CO2 cartridge tire inflator similar to this http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/product/HP-TOOLS-CO2-TIRE-INFLATOR-KIT-CLEARANCE/?id=103039

From what everyone has been saying the air consumption is pretty low and something like this would be small enough to mount directly to the cap fitting.... That would be pretty sweet.....

I assume the knob is a pressure regulator but have ordered one to check it out.... Will post what I find when it arrives.....

[HATCH]

just buy something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-Gallon-Portable-Air-Tank-65594-/230557644856?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ae4e7838

it will last you a long time.

I just ordered a air cylinder for $30. Gonna order a part from Magma for $12 and then I will have a complete air cylinder setup.

[Bob J]

just buy something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/5-Gallon-Portable-Air-Tank-65594-/230557644856?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ae4e7838

it will last you a long time.

I just ordered a air cylinder for $30. Gonna order a part from Magma for $12 and then I will have a complete air cylinder setup.


What part are you ordering from Magma? [smilie=s:
Was looking at the pigs and small compressors at harbor freight but they are all pretty big.... I could park it on the other side of the room and run a hose but given the slight consumption would rather have a small tank or source right at the star..... Paintball stuff is nice but pricey....

Will have to continue to keep my eyes open and think about it....

[HATCH]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v506/DrugRunR/air.jpg

Part #af107 and af108

I bought the air cylinder from MSC supply for $25. (they price matched a local supplier)
The air regulator from harbor freight for $7.
The fittings from the local supply house for $4

AF107 will cost $12 according to the nice lady I spoke to last week.
My brother Robert was going to make one but he is very busy.
I am buying the screw because why not, since I am already ordering from them might as well get the screw too.

I figure I should have about $60 in the whole deal.

[D Crockett]

Troy I just went to the hardware store the first piece is brass the 2nd is a reducer that is cast iron the kind old water pipes used to be made out of next is a male to male brass fitting that goes into the pressure gauge on top of the gauge is a male swivel air connect bought 2 o rings one to go into the piece that you screw into the star lubber first and one small one for the top of the air gauge I will try to get a friend to send a picture of it I took a air tank took the hose off and refitted it to where you could hook up a hose to it filled it with air it seems to work just fine the hardest thing was to get all the leaks to stop leaking next time I am in lowes I will get the names and sizes of the parts I bought and post them I hope this helps D Crockett

[Bob J]

Troy I just went to the hardware store the first piece is brass the 2nd is a reducer that is cast iron the kind old water pipes used to be made out of next is a male to male brass fitting that goes into the pressure gauge on top of the gauge is a male swivel air connect bought 2 o rings one to go into the piece that you screw into the star lubber first and one small one for the top of the air gauge I will try to get a friend to send a picture of it I took a air tank took the hose off and refitted it to where you could hook up a hose to it filled it with air it seems to work just fine the hardest thing was to get all the leaks to stop leaking next time I am in lowes I will get the names and sizes of the parts I bought and post them I hope this helps D Crockett

D Crockett, I use this to seal all my threads..... Does a really good job preventing air leaks......

http://www.homedepot.com/Plumbing-Plumbing-Accessories/Rectorseal/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbql8Z5yctlZ1qs/R-100116773/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

[D Crockett]

I just used teflon tape that worked for me I just had to put on and off a few times D Crockett

[DirtyJack]

I have compiled a list of most everything needed for the mod. I have a parts list for the tank and tankless setup.


For Tankless setup

From Homedepot:

1. 1/4" Air pressure regulator - Husky 401-877, $21.95

2. Connector Kit, contains 1 female quick connect, (1) 1/4"x1/4" connector, and (2) hose connectors - Husky 417-564, $5.99

3. 1/4" swivel connector - Campbell Hausfield MP1038 - $6.99

4. Watts 3/8" Flare x 1/4"MIP - Watts A-182 - $2.29

5. Teflon tape - $.99

6. 1 1/2" hose clamp - $.59

7. Scrap hose to cover cylinder vent hole.

O-rings I had on hand except for the 1 1/4" will have to go back to Lowes.

Homedepot does not carry the fluidmaster tank to bowl kit #6101 in my area.
Lowes only carrys the fluidmaster tank to bowl kit with tank gasket #6102 - $5.49


To Duplicate the Magma Pneumatic Air Cylinder Setup:

You will need a 1/8" air pressure regulator and a 1/8" female npt quick connector for the air supply.

If you cannot find a 1/8" air pressure regulator you will have to find a 1/8"male npt x 1/4"male npt adapter.

Optional fitting might be a universal swivel adapter depending on your setup.

Magma uses the SMC 1-1/16 air cylinder, 6" stroke, #NCMB106-0600

Other Pneumatic Air Cylinder Sources:
Description: PNEUMATIC CYLINDER, ROUND STAINLESS STEEL, 1-1/16 BORE, 6 IN. STROKE, DOUBLE ACTING, FRONT NOSE MOUNT, 5/8-18, 50-99psi

1. Automation Direct #A17060DN = $21.75 - $13.55 to OKLA

2. Cylinder SMC Coast Pneumatics #NCMB106-0600 - $25.15 - #13.87 to OKLA

3. Graingers - air cylinder - #5TGA8 - $45.10 - $15 shipping instore pickup $23 home (per sales counter)

4. McMasters & Carr - #6498K186 - $30.44 - unknown

*****BEST CHOICE*****
5. Amazon - from SMC (amazon prime) $32.81 - search SMC NCMB106-0600 OR 1-1/16" air cylinder, 6" stroke (This is the best deal if you have amazon prime, ships in 2 to 3 weeks it says.)
************************************************** ************************************************** **********
I chose Amazon because there are no handling fees. Shipping is free if you have amazon prime.

6. Magma Engineering - Total Parts for everything from Cap down
Air cylinder part numbers
#S109 - Pressure Screw Nut - $12
#AF107 - Piston - $12.50
#S107 - Hycar Washer - $7.95
#AF108 - Hycar Washer Mounting Screw - $2
#AF109 - #10 SAE Flat Washer - $.20

prices subject to change..


There are other sources for the air cylinders and lots of options. The air cylinders are not "normal" shelf items and there my be a short lead time. There are some stocking distributors but most say two or three days for build. I also ran into several distributors who charge not only shipping but handling too. So don't let the low price of a cylinder make up your mind, you might be surprised that the shipping can exceed $15. McMasters shipping for small packages will run about $6 according to order desk, but you won't know for sure until you are billed.

[rodsvet]

I have never seen the Magma in person. The cylinder that they use is the 1 1/16 with a 6 inch stroke. If the 1 1/2 has the same size nose thread it should work also. You don't plug the bottom port. If you did then the piston would have air trapped in front of it and it would be working against itself. When you want to retract the cylinder, you simple disconnect the air from the top port and apply air to the bottom port. Some guys just pull the whole unit out to add lube and push the piston back up by hand. I don't think the spring return works well. Maybe some one who has tried it will chime in. You already have the S109, S107,AF108 and AF109. Those items are part of the spring setup of your Star. Just pick up the air cylinder, piston, gauge, and various fitting you want and you are there. Good luck, Rod

[ronbo]

I have the magna factory cylinder, you do not want to retract the cylinder by using 120lbs of air pressure, ask me how I know, it really hammers up without any resistance. Better to just pull it up and out by hand with the air pressure disconnected.

[DirtyJack]

I have the magna factory cylinder, you do not want to retract the cylinder by using 120lbs of air pressure, ask me how I know, it really hammers up without any resistance. Better to just pull it up and out by hand with the air pressure disconnected.


(Ronbo)
I have seen options for the air cylinders that offer cushions as an option. But for this application, as you point out it really isn't needed.
Could upload a decent closeup of your cylinder? I still haven't seen a really good pic of the factory setup.

(Rodsvet)
Thanks for the info...I only listed the parts from magna so a person could have a choice to purchase new components or to at least know which parts they are using from the manual plunger. There are several threads where the air mod is the topic and the material list is scattered at best. I am trying to put it all in one place with part numbers and reliable sources so a person can find everything in one place. This thread is the best because in another part of the thread there is a parts breakdown from magna.

For myself, I am going to go ahead and purchase the piston components new. My lubricator is probably mid 50's and the screw that holds the hycar washer is absolutely locked tight. Who knows is may have loctite under it or old lube that is locking it in place. I don't feel like trying to put any heat on it as I would probably destroy it in the process. So I really need to puchase or fabricate a plunger/piston I would also like to see a good photo of your cylinder.

I installed all of my parts last night, plugged the vent hole and charged my luber with air. I pressured it up to 60psi and went to eat my dinner. Came back in an hour and the pressure was still 60psi so I think I have a decent seal. I will get the air cylinder tho and duplicate the factory setup.

[DirtyJack]

Well I got off the phone with Mary at Magma and wound up buying the whole assembly and a pound of lube. After 5 days of trying to source a cylinder that cost less than $45 delivered I decided to go ahead and get the whole thing. It turned out I wasn't going to save that much in the end. So I have $35 in parts that I spent on the other setup. Who knows I might need them for something else. Anyway, It's done and over with.

In sourcing the cylinder I found that for the specific bore size of 1-1/16", 6" stroke, and front nose mount, there are numerous options that can be ordered. You have to be very specific about what you are buying as these cylinders are mostly made to order. Only the most very basic cylinders are stocked.

I spoke with one supplier today who was very helpful and I asked him today who had the best cylinders. His shop supplies Parker cylinders. He told me that the SMC cylinders were very close in quality to Parker. He also noted that Speedaire and Norgren are very good. He told me it takes a couple of days to build and that would be typical from most suppliers.
I hope this helps those who want to build their setup.

[buffdriver]

I'm interested in attempting this modification; however, I can't see how to remove the lube cap from the pressure screw. This is the 5/8 x 18tpi screw. The cap doesn't appear to be removable at either end. Must the screw be cut or modified in order to remove the cap?

[buyobuyo]

buff, there is no cutting/modifying required. The flat washer on the end that pushes the piston down is pressed onto the shaft. Just unscrew the shaft all the way and the cap will push the washer off. There will be some resistance, but it will come off.

[buffdriver]

buff, there is no cutting/modifying required. The flat washer on the end that pushes the piston down is pressed onto the shaft. Just unscrew the shaft all the way and the cap will push the washer off. There will be some resistance, but it will come off.

It is as you say :smile:

Thank you kindly, sir.

[DirtyJack]

I received my air cylinder Saturday. For those who don't read the fine print. Your cylinder assembly is does not include S-107, S-109, and S-130 which is the pressure screw cap, the hycar seal and #10 washer. You are supposed to re-use the parts from the manual screw. My sizer is very old and the pressure cap will not come off without damaging (that's what Magma told me and that I shouldn't try) and the screw that holds the hycar washer in place is frozen in place and I would probably destroy it trying to remove it. I had to order the parts. So your setup will cost you another $25 to make a complete drop in assembly.

Sourcing the parts yourself you will spend approximately $92 for a complete drop in air cylinder assembly.

If you purchase from Magma ALL AT ONE TIME.
You will spend:
$100.00 - AF105 Air Cylinder Assembly....
$ 26.00 - S107, S109, S-130 - If you don't re-use your manual screw parts
$ 18.95 Shipping and handling
Total:
$144.95

Don't forget to buy lube if you don't already have a good supply - Its $15.00/lb. They ship in a flat rate box so you can put alot of lube in with your cylinder.

If you are a little more patient than myself you can save around $50 for a complete drop in unit by building the kit yourself. I added a 5 gal air tank from Northern Tool that was on sale for $24.99. I re-used one of the quick connectors from the tankless setup and I replaced the hose with one off of a pneumatic ratchet I had. I am now good to go.

[nspctr7]

I ran into issues with the rubber washers provided in the toilet tank assembly hardware. After I pressurized the system, the rubber washers would not provide a tight enough seal in the lube cylinder. (they must have changed the sizes of the washers) I pulled my hair out trying to find washers that were the correct size and would hold the pressure. I finally ran across a 1" Auto/Marine Plug at a local Menards. (Part # 84031). Its basically a compression plug. You can crank down on the nuts on both sides of the rubber plug and it expands to make an really nice seal. Best of all you can take the rubber plug and use the 5/16 bolt, nuts and a washer from the toilet tank hardware, as your new Piston. (it will totally replace the manual piston setup.) See pic attached. If you trim down the bolt you can now get almost a full 2 sticks of lube in the sizer.

[HDS]

I tried to do the simplest version of this modification after I got the part that you originally had to machine yourself. I put the o-ring on the cap, put the brass part over the cap and then hooked up the pressure regulator to that. Also tied off the air hole like the first video shows.

It didn't work, tried from 20-80PS and no difference. I if I waited a few minutes then I would get one squirt of lube coming out but no more. Eventually I just put the original twist system back on and went back to lubing normally.

Any idea why this didn't work for me? Do you need to modify the plunger as well somehow?

I know that the first time I used it, I screwed it on too hard and the plungers threaded portion screwed into the soft brass connector that goes into the cap, so I bored out the ID of the brass part so they would not touch each other. That didn't help either though... I even tried heating the whole sizer but my lube isn't very hard.

[nspctr7]

I tried to do the simplest version of this modification after I got the part that you originally had to machine yourself. I put the o-ring on the cap, put the brass part over the cap and then hooked up the pressure regulator to that. Also tied off the air hole like the first video shows.

It didn't work, tried from 20-80PS and no difference. I if I waited a few minutes then I would get one squirt of lube coming out but no more. Eventually I just put the original twist system back on and went back to lubing normally.

Any idea why this didn't work for me? Do you need to modify the plunger as well somehow?

I know that the first time I used it, I screwed it on too hard and the plungers threaded portion screwed into the soft brass connector that goes into the cap, so I bored out the ID of the brass part so they would not touch each other. That didn't help either though... I even tried heating the whole sizer but my lube isn't very hard.

Hello HDS,
I ran into the same issues you are describing and discovered the rubber washers were leaking and allowing the pressure to build up on both sides of the piston keeping it from moving down the piston. Once I changed to the plug with a tighter seal it fixed the problem. I think it cost $2 .

[HDS]

I don't have any rubber washers at all though in my setup. I only saw that in the 2nd mod and it looked like a good idea though. But I decided to go with the mk1 for simplicity sake. Maybe the piston itself is leaking, it felt like it was making a solid seal though when I removed it.