Ball dia - 44 cal BP pistol

[daschnoz]

I've been bitten again - looking at a 44 caliber BP revolver. Cabelas has some Rem 1858 Army models in the $200-$250 range, and Christmas is just around the corner :grin:.

In reading some of the other threads, I understand that you sheer a small ring off of the ball as you load the cylinder. Most recommend a 0.45x" ball. This should sheer about 0.010" or so from the ball as it is seated.

I already cast 0.490" RB for my rock lock. Could I use the same mold for the 44 cal revolver, or is that just too big?

[docone31]

Get the .454 RB mold from Lee.
I cast with pure lead, but a mix with wheel weights will work also. I mix my lube from 50% olive oil, and 50% beeswax.
No leading, no issues, and I love it.
You will be impressed with the revolver.

[44man]

When you get the Remington, you will get a ball size recommendation in the instructions.
The Remington has a small cylinder ideal for the round ball. If you shoot a boolit, the gas from fired cylinder will cut the heck out of the next boolit.
Gas will also blow lube from in front of the next ball if you use too soft a lube. Stay away from Crisco. I use a stiff BPCR lube in front of the ball.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Take the nipples out of the clean cylinder. Tap a lightly lubed oversized ball a little below the surface of the cylinder for each hole. Most cylinders have a number or alpha stamping to use as an index mark in recording your findings . Use a short rod through the nipple hole to knock the ball out. Record. Add a little for required ball size to seal correctly. While you are at it, slug the barrel. .

Then you will know and have an idea of accuracy potential based on cylinder, ball and bore info. With the cylinder fitted back and empty, slowly pull the hammer to full cock and look down the barrel for cylinder hole alignment by using a light.

Factory recommendations have little to do with reality. BvT

[Dframe]

The Baron provides some sage advise. Manufacturing tolerances and the pressures of mass production often cause differences in internal dimensions from gun to gun. Factory recommendations are based on generalisations and NOT exact measurements of your specific gun. Using the method Baron describes will give you the correct ball size for YOUR gun. Getting the correct sized projectile will pay big dividends.

[daschnoz]

Thanks guys.

[NickSS]

I have several Cabella's 44 Remingtons. They are all made by Piatta and shoot well. I generally use either a .451 or .454 ball but have used .457 balls as well. All shoot about the same in my revolvers. My most used revolver has had approximately 3500 rounds through it and has yet to have a need for anything other than replacement nipples when the holes get too large due to gas erosion. I mostly shoot 8 gr of FFFG powder.

[fryboy]

i actually like the ball-etts in mine as well as lee's conical , with either i use a wad ( saves grease but not greasing - if that makes sense ) when using a plain round ball the ball size isnt as critical as in say a centerfire rig , one only has to recall that they were designed to shave/swage the ball in the cylinder and use a oversize ball ( however if the chambers are too tite for bore they can be reamed out a bit if needed ) the lead shaving part helps seal against crossfires as does the wad/grease , not sure if your .490 ball will swage that far , i believe it will be hard on the loading lever even if pure lead balls are used , the lee conical is one of the few boolits i pan lube , currently using pearl lube but have used alot of emmert's but even crisco straight works ( it's also why i call these " the self lubricating guns " lolz ) in the old days the accepted and standard ball sizes was .451 for colts and .454 for remingtons and .457 for rugers ( when they came out ) the italian copies i've had decent luck using .457's in the rem's but not as much in the colts ( one broke a loading lever screw trying to do so ) of course your mileage will vary , one thing to keep in mind while the brass frames are cheaper they arent as durable ( will last longer with lite loads ) and for misc. parts and info i highly recommend dixie gun works here's a link to one of dixie's pietta's in 44 ( complete with specs and loading data
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_187_189&products_id=4098

[cajun shooter]

I remember when I purchased my first C&B in 1970. After my first trip out to fire it I had found the reason that the cowboys in the movies of the time threw the gun after it was empty.

[nascarkent]

I've had good results with "454" in mine

[Dale53]

These guns were designed for PURE LEAD balls. Harder balls puts too much stress on the rammer and can actually cause serious damage. Resist the urge to use WW's.

Cast with pure lead and no more than 1% tin to provide for easier casting without materially hardening the lead.

Use a lubed wad over the powder. It solves the lubrication problem, will GREATLY reduce the possibility of a "cross fire" and will allow you to reduce the powder charge a bit.

Only put enough powder into the chambers to allow slight compression of the powder (again, you don't want to damage the gun).

You DO want the ball large enough to properly seal the cylinder holes. Soft lead allows a slightly oversize ball without stressing the gun. Further, the ball needs to be rather tight so that recoil of another shot does not allow the ball to creep out and tie up the gun.

Dale53

[coopieclan]

I just shot my Pietta 1858 (using black powder) for the 2nd time today.
I have been using 25 gr. Pyrodex fffg, a wonder wad, a .454 ball and topped off with some bee's wax. The 454 gives the tiny lead ring, it feels right.
It gives much less recoil than the cartridges I have tried... Remington .45 LC in a conversion cylinder pops the loading lever open. This is bad.
Black powder is AWESOME! This is how the Cabella's Italian reproductions should be shot.

Go a head buy the gun

Coopieclan