primer pockets

[kbstenberg]

Once again i have to show my limited knowledge of Hand-loading. I just got my first .223 handy rifle. Now i have to start loading for it. If i purchase 1X military brass are the primers kept in the primer pockets in a special way that need a special technique for DE-priming an re-priming?
Is there anything i have to look out for in buying military brass? Are the cheap foreign made brass re-loadable?
If i buy brass for commercial sales (ie Fed., Win., or whoever) Can i just load those cases as i normally would.
Kevin

[cheese1566]

Most military brass primers are crimped in so they don't back out. Look at the brass near the primer edge and you will see a "stamped" ring around the hole.
Punch out the primers and you will feel a burr around the primer hole. On commercial stuff, the edge will be smooth and round.
To install a new primer this burr most be either swaged (special tooling) or removed.

You can usually use a regular sizing die and remove the primer. Some people have bad luck and break decap pins. I like to use a decapping die made only for removing primers. They are built strong just for this operation. Look into the brass and make sure it isn't Berdan primed (two small holes). Boxer primed will have one hole.

Most companies make a small tool to remove the crimp. One common item can be using your chamfer tool that is used after trimming cases, or a steel countersink bit froom the hardware store. Just enough to remove the burr edge, and slight chamfer so the primers install without a hitch.

[fryboy]

+1 !!
my fav is the hornady , while the single bit is out of stock at midway here's the link to the combo ( which is in stock )

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=804809

[kbstenberg]

Thanks guyes Kevin

[mike in co]

for small primer pockets,THE TOOL, is the lyman vld inside neck deburring tool. midway carries the tool. it has a very narrow angle. it has no cutter in the end to mess up the bottom of the primer pocket, it cuts a vary narrow slight angle at the top of the pocket...where the crimp is/was.
job done when tool bottoms out.
cost 12 bucks or so
can be mounted in a power source..drill, drill press, lathe...or by hand

as for brass...try for one lot/headstamp...if accuracy is the name of the game.


mike in co

[noylj]

Or, you can use a pocket knife.
I bought 100 rounds of new brass and figure that will last me for years—but I'm not stockpiling rounds.

[kbstenberg]

Ya I'm not a high volume shooter. After i get loads established a few for Coyotes would be enough.
Although i may have to stockpile if the Canadians start coming over the border.
Kevin

[bkbville]

I use a countersink; spin it a couple of times and the crimp is gone.
Works great.

[zuke]

I also use a countr sink, but mine's chucked in a small drill press.
Take's a split second and their all done.
Not bad for a Canadian :killingpc

[Shiloh]

I also use a countr sink, but mine's chucked in a small drill press.
Take's a split second and their all done.
Not bad for a Canadian :killingpc

A countersink works perfect. Just don't get over-zealous. The crimp ring ONLY needs to be removed. I have seen brass where half the promer pocket wall is removed.

This is WAY too much. Just the crimp ring.

Shiloh

[felix]

Actually, it makes little difference when too much is taken off. I used to worry about the case not handling the pressure desired with a short pocket, but that worry has been proven a waste of time, even when hot loads mash the primers. The criteria is how tight the pockets are when compared to those pockets not having been cut. ... felix

[casterofboolits]

I load .223 in large volume, usually 1,000 rounds at a time and use once fired military cases. Traded for a five gal. bucket full.

I use the RCBS pocket swage tool in my Rock Chucker and this has worked well for me for over thirty years.