Barrel Obstruction removal

[Papa Jack]

A friend of mine brought over a Rem 700 30-06 yesterday, belongs to his son.
The brass case was stuck in the chamber, primer removed... It was unkown if there was a powder charge or if the bullet had been discharged.
The barrel was obstructed about 8" from the muzzle, unkown what was in there but later found out it was a wood dowel .
I poured KROIL into the open primer hole to hopefully kill any powder charge, and drilled and taped the base 10-24, screwed in a piece of 10-24 all thread and a nut and washer and attached my small slide hammer and gave it a couple wacks and the case came right out.
The case was full of wood fibers, no powder or bullet.
The wood in the barrel and throat is packed in SOOOOO tite I can't get it to budge. I have tried brass rods, but don't have anything bigger than a brazing rod.
From the looks of the Chamber, it was pretty rusty, looks like maybe they loaded it (factory round) and fired it, and the brass stuck to the rusty chamber.

Any ideas....????? :popcorn:

Thinkin about pullin the barrel off and just getting it rebarreled, but I'd kinda like to see what the condition is first.
People who WORK at ruining a good rifle should be shot with it !
Thank's Guys !! "Papa Jack"

[Tom-ADC]

Papa Jack can't you drill the dowel out thru the middle then tap it out with a cleaning rod or ?

BTW brother was a helo crew chief with Company A 227th Assault Helicopter Battalion
I think 66-67 I was there last time 70-71

[Charlie Sometimes]

I know a guy who has several Remington 700 barrels (a couple in 30-06) that you can get real cheap! PM if you want the contact info.

I came across an OLD double barrel shotgun like that once. It had a patch and broken wooden cleaning rod jammed in it- and I mean JAMMED! I dissassembled the gun, found a brass rod the size of the bore and long (for for the weight) and started bouncing it up and down in the barrel until it came out. Soaking the wood in Kroil might get it to soften and combining the procedures might get it out (did for me). I doubt that the bore and chamber would be too rusty to clean up unless really pitted. If you can get it out without gouging or scaring the rifling, then you might be okay.

[MtGun44]

This is the perfect cautionary tale for why not to use a wooden dowel for slugging.

I think I'd get a 1/4" diam drill with a long shank and wrap it with aluminum metal tape
to make a snug fit with the bore up to about 1" from the front to protect the bore.
I think you can drill out the wood with this.

Good luck.

Bill

[Papa Jack]

I have some long drill bits.......I tried a bit about 1/8" ,wrapped it with tape every couple inches, drilled very slowly as deep as I could from the muzzle end.
Wrapped tape and rubber hose around a 1/4" steel rod and tried driving from the chamber end.....It just bounced.
Today I will get some brass rod, see if I can get something done. Might be able to silver solder a drill bit into the end of the rod. I'll have to borrow a lathe and drill the end of the brass rod.

Thought about soaking it in coleman fuel and lighting it on fire, not being able to get air, it may not burn hot enough to hurt anything, just enough to loosen it up enough to drive it out....

Thank's for the help guys ! [smilie=s: "PJ"

[Papa Jack]

Papa Jack can't you drill the dowel out thru the middle then tap it out with a cleaning rod or ?

BTW brother was a helo crew chief with Company A 227th Assault Helicopter Battalion
I think 66-67 I was there last time 70-71


Not sure where the 227th was located....
We're you NAVY ? In Nam ? We supported several Sea Wolf and Seal operations in the Delta area. Riverine too. PJ

[BABore]

Termites?:-P

This is the third, first person story I've heard involving a wood rod wedged in a bbl. Yet, people still insist on using them for slugging. :groner:[smilie=b:From those I've heard about, carefull drilling is about the best solution. Once the core is drilled out, pieces can be driven out individually.

[Pepe Ray]

Hey there Papa;
Any liquid added to the mess will cause the wood to SWELL not shrink. You'll only prolong your agony with lubes etc.
Soldering a small drill bit to a brass rod will work IF you've got the technology to do it. what worked for me was to grind/file a makeshift drilling edge on a brass cleaning patch holder thinga-mabobbie, winding it on a rugged cleaning rod and chewing the wood out.
It's work but doesn't cost much.
Good luck
Pepe Ray

[waksupi]

You may be able to heat a brass rod red hot, and slowly burn it out.

[Bullshop]

I wonder if a hydraulic arrangement might generate enough push to dislodge it?
I am thinking of something like the Gibbs hydraulic case forming procedure.
Its messy but does develop a lot of push power.
Something like fill the barrel with oil, then a pure lead tight slug, the a short stout brass rod and a big hammer. Possible?

[RayinNH]

You should be able to make a drill bit out of the brass rod. Flatten the end a bit and grind like a spade bit, no center needed. The rod is softer than barrel steel and should not hurt it. Just peck a little at a time and empty barrel of chips/dust...Ray

[John Taylor]

Take a propane torch and heat the whole barrel. The wood will char at about 500 degrees which will not hurt the barrel ( they are stress relieved at over 1000 degrees). It will also cause it to dry out and shrink. Pepe Ray is right, any more liquid, oil or otherwise, will only cause the wood to stick tighter.

[Molly]

You should be able to make a drill bit out of the brass rod. Flatten the end a bit and grind like a spade bit, no center needed. The rod is softer than barrel steel and should not hurt it. Just peck a little at a time and empty barrel of chips/dust...Ray

Had a barrel once so plugged that dropping a cleaning rod on the plug made the rod ring like I'd bounced it on an anvil! Never saw anything like it, but I took a length of brazing rod and flattened the tip on the anvil, then cut the end of it to sorta look like an off-center arrowhead. Chucked it in a drill and cleaned that baby out in jig time. It left some crud in the grooves, but that brushed out with a little work to leave me with a cleared and completely undamaged barrel.

[Bullshop]

I think you guys have the right idea. That flattened and sharpened brass rod is what will likely get it done.

[Papa Jack]

I have managed to get a 1/8" brazing rod driven thru the wood from one end to the other, took me all day foolin around.
The "Spade Bit " end on the brass rod sounds like a good one, I 'll try it next. I could not find a 1/4" brass rod any where in town, I did buy a 3/16" brass rod, it's helped, I'm gaining on it, but it's kinda like trying to eat an elephant.....A bite at a time.

I was thinking ( After I got home of coarse....) I saw a bunch of brass and aluminum thinwall tubing at "Ace iz da Place ", Thought about using a piece of the 1/4" tubing, filing some "teeth" into the end and running it with a drill motor, kinda like a "Hole Saw", that should loosen up the wood all the way around. Just another idea....

Maybe NEXT TIME.... Thanks again ! "PJ"

[S.R.Custom]

Take a propane torch and heat the whole barrel. The wood will char at about 500 degrees which will not hurt the barrel ( they are stress relieved at over 1000 degrees).

+1 what John said.

[Charlie Sometimes]

I'd think Bullshops hydraulic idea would work well.
If you could create an adapter to fit the end of a barrel, you could do almost any caliber with a sudden blast of fluid or a ram.
It's also a technique used to deprime Berdan primed cartridges.

[Papa Jack]

I'd think Bullshops hydraulic idea would work well.
If you could create an adapter to fit the end of a barrel, you could do almost any caliber with a sudden blast of fluid or a ram.
It's also a technique used to deprime Berdan primed cartridges.

Yea, I thought about that idea, the problem is Sealing up the end of the barrel, either end. Thats lot of pressure to hold with just a hose clamp or something, almost need a screw fitting of some kind.
I have used a common grease gun to push out stuck and rusted disc brake pistons, that worked great, but I had a threaded fitting to hook the hose up to.

I didn't work on it today, the "BOSS" had me doing other more important projects.....

So maybe Saturday I can get back to my dungeon and try to get er done.....

Thanks guys ! PJ

[EOD3]

You could always use the "EOD" method of removing stuck rounds. Thing hydraulic pressure and a loud bang. :D

[Papa Jack]

You could always use the "EOD" method of removing stuck rounds. Thing hydraulic pressure and a loud bang. :D

Funny you should mention that EOD3......
I had an old friend who used to tell me stories about how he used Dynamite to remove a stuck shaft out of a final drive on a Caterpillar Tractor in the woods ...

have a good one ! "PJ"

[home in oz]

I think Molly has the right idea.

I have used that one.

[EOD3]

Funny you should mention that EOD3......
I had an old friend who used to tell me stories about how he used Dynamite to remove a stuck shaft out of a final drive on a Caterpillar Tractor in the woods ...

have a good one ! "PJ"

You should see a tank driver cry when he finds out how we "extract" a stuck round. :holysheep

You start with a couple dozen sandbags to cover up the "fragile" stuff inside the tank. :lol: Getting "leftovers" out of a cement truck can be fun too.

[82nd airborne]

EOD3, 8-9ounces of RDX on each side of the obstruction, well packed should remove it, no?Maybe several wraps of det cord just for some extra oomf, incase its really stuck.

[Papa Jack]

A friend of mine has a construction company, has several rock pits and access to "Rock Gell" and other goodies. Several years ago I had a couple gophers in my front yard, just diggin up the place. I usually shoot em with my shot gun (thats another story that involves the local Sheriffs Dept. ) Any how I was telling my friend about the Gophers , he says I got just t he thing you need, I got some det cord and electric caps, I'll bring some over !...
He shows up, we rig the gopher mounds, get in our lawn chairs and wait em out, Took about 20 minutes, first hole had about 3 ft of cord....That mound moved and there was a big flash and a WOMP and I had a really nice ditch in my front yard !!
So we rigged the next hole about the same way, little less cord....Same results, shorter ditch, no more gophers !!
Getting back to the Sheriff dept. Gophers in t he yard again, I was sitting in my lawn chair out in the yard right over the gopher hole with my 20Ga. Savage 24V Single shot, (30-30, 20 ga..) The sheriff deputy drives by.....Stops, backs up, rolls her window down, Good afternoon sir..... Mind me asking what your doing with your gun in the front yard ?
Well, I have a gopher digging up my yard right here, pointing at the mound of dirt....
Ohhhh, in that case you have a nice day sir....and she drives off...I shot that gopher later before dark.
One time the old lady across the street had a sick cat, she calls me up and asks if I would mind coming over and shooting her cat, it was sick? Sure, I'll do that....
So I did, I shot the cat and burried it for her. Crossing the street here comes a car, so I waited, it's the Sheriff, stops, rolls down the window, what ya doin with that rifle? Ohhh I just shot a sick cat for the old neighbor lady...... Ohhhhh, OK, see ya later.....
Just can't get away from Jonny Law....LOL, "PJ"

[Papa Jack]

Today I hammered a spade on the end of the 3/16 brass welding rod, filed some sharp edges on it and proceeded to try to drill out the wood (?) from the barrel.
This is very tuff stuff what ever it is, it comes out in powder form, and once I had gotten the bit bored all the way thru the barrel, you could barely see daylight thru it...
It's like the hole closes behind the bit, really odd stuff. Comes out dark like walnut but powdery.
Once I had the spade bit all the way thru I thought I could use the 1/4" aluminum rod to just punch the stuff out......NO WAY ! It pounded in there soo had it was like a rock ! I had to start over with the spade bit, and I kept re forming the bit to keep it close as I could to bore diameter.
I was finally able to get a pretty good hole thru, but the material is REALLY stuck to the barrel.
I finally got tired of beating my head against the wall and plugged the muzzle end, stood the barrel up and poured it full of C3-36 ( I had a gallon of it...) It's like WD-40....
I'll let it soak, see if it loosens from the bore a little. Kinda acts like maybe it's gotten dampness and rusted to the bore, it's really stuck....
I'll keep you informed......PJ
Now maybe I'll have time to work on my NEW H&R Handi in .444 Marlin, gotta put a scope on it and clean it up, slug the barrel, maybe use a wooden dowel to drive the slug thru............ "PJ"

[schutzen]

How long has the wood dowel been in the barrel? Sounds like it may be rusted in place. I would plug the barel and soak it in kroil for a day or two and then try to push everything free.
It that is it, you may need to polish the barrell with 0000 steel wool and oil to clear the rust.

Good luck.

[EOD3]

EOD3, 8-9ounces of RDX on each side of the obstruction, well packed should remove it, no?Maybe several wraps of det cord just for some extra oomf, incase its really stuck.

1 roll of toilet paper, golf-ball+ size ball of C4, electric blasting cap, axle grease, 2 condoms, water, a partially filled sandbag, blasting wire and a roll of electrical tape.

FIRE IN THE HOLE

Spit that bad boy back down the barrel like a watermelon seed.

NOW, the most important thing to remember. After the "boom", gather ALL the gear then drive to the tank, police up the projectile, put it the truck and DEPART the area BEFORE the tank commander goes anywhere near the tank. He will be very, very unhappy :groner:

[gnoahhh]

The time honored method of removing bore obstructions is to drill them out, BUT you need a good sharp and straight deep hole drill with enough precision fitted bushings (brass, bronze, steel, etc.- not thicknesses of tape or strips of soda can, etc.) to precisely and firmly hold that bit in the center of the bore. A lathe is 10X better than a drill too. I watched a smith do it that very way several times without so much as kissing the rifling. He did it for me when I stuck a .30 jacketed bullet in a Krag barrel once. Drilled the core out clean as a whistle leaving th jacket behind which tapped out with a cleaning rod.

[hiram]

"and tried driving from the chamber end.."

I would try driving the plug with a brass rod in the direcion it was originally going > from muzzle to chamber.

[Tom-ADC]

I find myself coming back to the thread, good luck but it sure has made for some great reading...:drinks:

[Papa Jack]

"and tried driving from the chamber end.."

I would try driving the plug with a brass rod in the direcion it was originally going > from muzzle to chamber.


I have tried driving from both directions, using Brass and Aluminum rods, the material piles up into the bore soo hard packed that I have to drill thru it again and again..
I'm busy today on home projects ( getting a new wood stove installed ), so I am letting it sit and soak fora few days, then I will get back on it...."PJ"

[Papa Jack]

How long has the wood dowel been in the barrel? Sounds like it may be rusted in place. I would plug the barel and soak it in kroil for a day or two and then try to push everything free.
It that is it, you may need to polish the barrell with 0000 steel wool and oil to clear the rust.

Good luck.

We really don't know how long the barrel has been this way...The gun belongs to my friends step son, he took off with his GF to parts unknown, just walked out of his house and left everything, didn't even lock the doors !!
I would say it's been plugged for at least a year, looks like it has drawn a lot of moisture and rusted itself to the bore..
I have it soaking in CRC 3-36, we'll see what happens in a day or so....."PJ"

[eagle27]

Have removed many barrel obstructions by shooting them out. No not with full power loads!!!! Start with a primed case first, then if still not shifting with a primer, build up a few grains of fast powder at a time keeping the gun elevated. Has never failed me yet and does no damage to the bore other than if some clich has already done so by driving rods and other odds and ends down first.

[John Taylor]

Have removed many barrel obstructions by shooting them out. No not with full power loads!!!! Start with a primed case first, then if still not shifting with a primer, build up a few grains of fast powder at a time keeping the gun elevated. Has never failed me yet and does no damage to the bore other than if some clich has already done so by driving rods and other odds and ends down first.

Your idea brought back memories of a smith I worked for many years back. He used black powder to try and get a barrel plug out on a bolt action. He pulled the trigger and nothing happened, no sound or anything. He tried to open the bolt and it would not budge. He finally started tapping on the bolt handle to open it up and when it came open it slammed back to the rear and threw the empty case clear across the shop. Hard to imagine all that pressure just sitting there waiting to be relieved.
I still say heat the barrel up and the wood will probably slide out easy.

I have seen a ram rod fly down range. If your going to use powder behind it make sure it is pointed in a safe direction.

[Molly]

In "Hatcher's Notebook", he relates quite a few successful attempts to clear plugged bores by 'shooting them out' with full military rounds that had the bullet removed. The primed case and powder were handled carefully to avoid spillage while the gun was being loaded. The rifle was kept vertical and fired outdoors (BG). The procedure was so successful that he was considering a formal suggestion / recommendation that it be adopted as a standard procedure until the obstruction didn't clear on one test, but bulged the barrel badly. You might want to read his account before trying this.

[eagle27]

In "Hatcher's Notebook", he relates quite a few successful attempts to clear plugged bores by 'shooting them out' with full military rounds that had the bullet removed. The primed case and powder were handled carefully to avoid spillage while the gun was being loaded. The rifle was kept vertical and fired outdoors (BG). The procedure was so successful that he was considering a formal suggestion / recommendation that it be adopted as a standard procedure until the obstruction didn't clear on one test, but bulged the barrel badly. You might want to read his account before trying this.

Yes obviously needs a little common sense when doing this. Because of the few grains of powder the case does not obturate so you will hear some gas hissing back if the obstruction does not move. From memory I have never yet had to use any more than 5-7 grains of powder, say Unique or 700X, to shift even the tightest obstruction.
It goes without saying to wear safety glasses and keep rifle away from the body and pointing upwards away from buildings. I certainly wouldn't continue adding more powder than the few grains I advocate if the obstruction will not shift.

[Charlie Sometimes]

[QUOTE=Molly;1046639]In "Hatcher's Notebook", he relates quite a few successful attempts to clear plugged bores by 'shooting them out' with full military rounds that had the bullet removed.............. until the obstruction didn't clear on one test, but bulged the barrel badly......QUOTE]

Yep, Those were the days when a man was was a man, and they had control of the known universe. Remember what they said about the Titanic when it was built? Apparently metallurgy was not as perfect on both accounts and dumb luck was heavily relied upon. Funny, it's still pretty much standard today! :lol:

[KCSO]

Well here's what I did...

I turned a drill rod to bore diameter and then turned the BIT portion slightly smaller than the bore and about 1/2" long. Then I would drill a little and then flatten the chips on the side of the bore with a brass rod, drill and mash drill and mash till I got the wood out. It took me about 4 hours of carefull work but I didn't scratch the bore.

[Papa Jack]

Today I poured out the CRC 3-36 and tried again to push the 1/4" Aluminum rod thru the bore, it worked, I was able to push it back and forth lots of times, and I had a lot of crud balling up and falling out.
I broke a lot of the material out of the bore.
I then got out my Stainless Steel bore brushes, started with a .243 size, worked it thru several times, had to clean the brush out each time. Then I went up to a .270 size and did the same, cleaning the brush each time.
Finally I used a 30 cal brush and pushed it only one way (if you try to pull it back the brush un- stakes itself from the treaded feral ) so I had to unscrew the brush, clean it and repeat. This seemed to get out most of the material, but there is still a lot stuck to the bore, just beyond the chamber area.
I put the plug back into the muzzle and hung the barrel with the chamber up and filled it full of OLD WWII GI bore cleaner......Ohhhhhhh it stinks ! I have washed my hands 3 times and they STILL stink...
I'll let it soak for a few days and start over .
The bore is pretty much ruined, it looks a lot like my old Mosin Nagant 91 barrel, fired corrosive ammo the whole war. The rifling in the remington is just barely visible. The grooves are pretty dark.
The fireing of a round to clear the obstruction sounds good to me, especially if there is a slight hole to relieve some of the pressure.
I have some loaded ammo around here somewhere made during the war with Wooden bullets (Jap, I think....) These were used as cleaning rounds.... I have read several opinions on these, some say cleaning rounds, some say training rounds to save copper/lead....I dunno, I wasn't there and I don't speak Jap either....LOL
You guys and ladies have a good day , be safe ! ....."Papa Jack"

[gnoahhh]

Wooden bullets were not "cleaning rounds!" They are hollow inside, and are blanks. Nothing more, nothing less. The hollow wooden bullets were used to give them the OAL needed for decent functioning in automatic weapons.

[S.R.Custom]

I still say heat the barrel up and the wood will probably slide out easy.

Indeed. If you'd have heated the barrel up to the charring point of wood (451°F) you'd've been done 2 weeks ago... ;)

[EOD3]

Wooden bullets were not "cleaning rounds!" They are hollow inside, and are blanks. Nothing more, nothing less. The hollow wooden bullets were used to give them the OAL needed for decent functioning in automatic weapons.

Close, but no cigar! The Germans used wooden bullets for "less than lethal" training and I suppose other European countries may have used them too. There was a "shredder attachment" attached to the muzzle to turn the bullet into something akin to sawdust.

[gnoahhh]

Exactly what I was saying. I just didn't want to totally hijack the thread with all of the uses of blanks the Germans,Japanese, et al had for them. I have .30/40 and early .30 Gov't blank rounds in my collection loaded with a kind of hard rolled waxy paper bullet. Same concept.

[Papa Jack]

Exactly what I was saying. I just didn't want to totally hijack the thread with all of the uses of blanks the Germans,Japanese, et al had for them. I have .30/40 and early .30 Gov't blank rounds in my collection loaded with a kind of hard rolled waxy paper bullet. Same concept.

Hey, You guys bullet collectors too ? I have a bunch of em, but no where to display em. Mine are in boxes and bags in a couple storage totes. I used to have a friend who also collected cartridges and he'd share em with me .
One time I was dealing with an old guy on his 03-A3 , and after I bought the rifle ( it was like new, looked like it'd never been carried or used !) He brought out an old Blue tackle box, says here, you can have my bullet collection.....That tin tackle box was full of ammo, all different types and sizes, thats how I got started.....I don't run across much new anymore, but when I find something odd or different I add it to the box.
A guy can study ammunition for ever, just like guns.
I guess we did sorta hi-jack the thread.. It's my thread, guess we can get off topic ! :hijack: "PJ"

[azcruiser]

Clean the chamber up put a primed a case put some powder in it pull trigger wood be gone .Or
heat it up on the grill then when it;s starts to smoke out the front and back light smoke wood should turn to charcoal and come out . Shooting is quicker or maybe a blank ??

[EOD3]

Nahhh, I'm not a collector, just a goldmine of useless trivial information.

In a previous life, we (EOD people) used to play the "what is it" game when we were on missions. Useful training for the young kids just learning to do frag-analysis. Pick up a mysterious looking piece of junk and hand it to one of the junior guys "What is it?"

[Papa Jack]

Nahhh, I'm not a collector, just a goldmine of useless trivial information.

In a previous life, we (EOD people) used to play the "what is it" game when we were on missions. Useful training for the young kids just learning to do frag-analysis. Pick up a mysterious looking piece of junk and hand it to one of the junior guys "What is it?"

In Nam one day the guys were goofin around trying to play baseball, they had a split board from an old rocket box that they were using for a bat, I happened to walk by just as they whacked something really hard that they were using for the ball. It sounded like a big rock, it landed close to where I was and it looked kinda odd....So I picked it up. I was looking it over and the guys wanted their toy back, it was round, bout the size of a golf ball, looked like it was made from square wire wrapped in a ball and had scores in each winding, and a threaded hole . I looked inside, it was full of some kind of doughy looking stuff....
Then it dawned on me...( took a while..duhhhh ) It was a grenade either out of a 40mm Launcher or a baseball grenade ,one or the other.... Fun stuff to play with, whack with a stick....LOL "PJ"

[gnoahhh]

No longer collecting cartridges here. I made a mahogany cabinet 24" wide x 12" deep x 30" high. Shallow drawers 1 1/4" tall filled it. Each drawer was sectioned off with 1/8" thick dividers to hold individual cartridges, and numbered. The numbers were cross-referenced to a master sheet describing the cartridge and a price code known only to me so I could keep track of how much I paid for it. It took about a year just to make the cabinet in my spare time! I specialized in English and Euro sporting cartridges. Sold it along with the collection inside of it for an obscene amount of money to another cartridge collector. Now the only cartridges I collect are full boxes of .22's for which I made a kind of wooden spool cabinet to display them. It is addictive.

[EOD3]

In Nam one day the guys were goofin around trying to play baseball, they had a split board from an old rocket box that they were using for a bat, I happened to walk by just as they whacked something really hard that they were using for the ball. It sounded like a big rock, it landed close to where I was and it looked kinda odd....So I picked it up. I was looking it over and the guys wanted their toy back, it was round, bout the size of a golf ball, looked like it was made from square wire wrapped in a ball and had scores in each winding, and a threaded hole . I looked inside, it was full of some kind of doughy looking stuff....
Then it dawned on me...( took a while..duhhhh ) It was a grenade either out of a 40mm Launcher or a baseball grenade ,one or the other.... Fun stuff to play with, whack with a stick....LOL "PJ"

Once upon a time, I read a book about two crazed EOD guys on a mission to help the guys at the Fort Hunter-Leggit ASP dispose of some odds and ends they had laying around. An unnamed individual and SGT Bob picked up one of the ASP guys and about 200 pounds of miscellaneous junk and a case of C-4. Sgt Bob, the ASP guy and the unnamed individual constructed an orderly "pile" of junk and proceeded to add a layer of 1.25 pound blocks of C-4.

Now, not to get off the subject... We always took .22 rifles or pistols with us to help thin the ground-rat population.

Unnamed and SGT Bob were educating the ASP guy about the properties of C-4, one of which is that it's "bullet safe" meaning that a point-blank shot from a 30-06 will NOT cause it to detonate. ASP guy was extremely doubtful that unnamed and SGT Bob were telling the truth, SO... The ASP guy and unnamed were laying blocks of C-4 on the "junk" when unnamed held up a block of C-4 (with his fingertips) and told SGT Bob to show him. The ASP guy was absolutely certain he was being played, right up until SGT Bob fired the pistol. Chunks of C-4 laying about, crazed EOD guys LTAO, and a SNOW WHITE civilian with a brand-new speech impediment. Sgt Bob let the ASP guy fire the shot to smooth his feathers a bit. :-D

If I can find the book, I'll post the ISBN so everyone can share. :idea:

[Papa Jack]

Once upon a time, I read a book about two crazed EOD guys on a mission to help the guys at the Fort Hunter-Leggit ASP dispose of some odds and ends they had laying around. An unnamed individual and SGT Bob picked up one of the ASP guys and about 200 pounds of miscellaneous junk and a case of C-4. Sgt Bob, the ASP guy and the unnamed individual constructed an orderly "pile" of junk and proceeded to add a layer of 1.25 pound blocks of C-4.

Now, not to get off the subject... We always took .22 rifles or pistols with us to help thin the ground-rat population.

Unnamed and SGT Bob were educating the ASP guy about the properties of C-4, one of which is that it's "bullet safe" meaning that a point-blank shot from a 30-06 will NOT cause it to detonate. ASP guy was extremely doubtful that unnamed and SGT Bob were telling the truth, SO... The ASP guy and unnamed were laying blocks of C-4 on the "junk" when unnamed held up a block of C-4 (with his fingertips) and told SGT Bob to show him. The ASP guy was absolutely certain he was being played, right up until SGT Bob fired the pistol. Chunks of C-4 laying about, crazed EOD guys LTAO, and a SNOW WHITE civilian with a brand-new speech impediment. Sgt Bob let the ASP guy fire the shot to smooth his feathers a bit. :-D

If I can find the book, I'll post the ISBN so everyone can share. :idea:

In Nam ,we used to make what we called "Dooms Day Bombs"....Mini gun ammo cans or 20 mm ammo cans layered with C-4 and old M-60 and 50 cal links, we'd fill the can full. Had to take the 3/4 to Re-arm to get a whole bed full of C-4. One night we were building bombs and drinkin beer, getting pretty wasted, the First Sgt and XO came into our Hootch, wanted to know why there was a 3/4 ton parked outside full of C-4 ? Then he stopped, looked around the room and seen several of us tamping down the C-4 and links into the ammo cans with 2x4's and there were several sitting around that were done, these had the tops wired down with safety wire and the spoon of a base ball grenade hanging out of the corner under the lid..... Ya never saw two people turn white and move out as fast as those two did !!! No questions, just get out and get as far away as they could....FAST.
We used to drop those "bombs" when we needed a little "Close Air Support" in a pinch til the Air Force could get to us. One day we did just that and the FAC over head wanted to know who dropped that Ordnance ? We fessed up, he chewed our butts, told us it was the AF job to drop Ordnance, not the Army's..... LOL "PJ"

[Molly]

Great stories fellows, but I think they deserve a thread of their own, not here on a barrel obstruction topic. Why don't you start one, ... and send me a link so I can follow it too.

[Papa Jack]

Great stories fellows, but I think they deserve a thread of their own, not here on a barrel obstruction topic. Why don't you start one, ... and send me a link so I can follow it too.

Your right Molly, I get carried away with the off topic......I need to wrap this operation up and get it off of my gun bench...."PJ"

[Papa Jack]

Today I think I finished the barrel obstruction saga...
I drained the GI bore cleaner, pushed the Stainless bore brush thru several times, it looked a lot better ,but there was still lots of wood around the bore just forward of the chamber.
I decided to try the "fire wrench", I put the barred action in a pipe vice with lead jaws. I fired up the propane torch and proceeded to heat around that area forward of the chamber. Granted, I probably did not get it hot enough, but it was pretty hot, I heated for about 15 minutes is all. I was afraid of ruining the blueing. I then ran the stainless brush thru it and most all of the wood came out.
I could not find my 06 blanks, so I loaded up two rounds of 3 grains of Red Dot and toilet paper wads...I fired one, no problems, But had hard extraction, case was scored from the shoulder to the neck.
I cleaned the chamber with a chamber brush and put a couple tite patches thru it, it looked good, light reflected off the surfaces.
I went for broke !
I loaded a full load round, FMJ GI bullet from my 03-A3 loaded ammo. Put on my safety face shield, my leather welding gloves, and pointed the muzzle into a 5 gallon bucket of sand in the shop, Touched it off, blew sand all over the floor....
I extracted the brass, it too came out kinda hard, bolt opened ok, but hard to pull the bolt back, smacked it with my hand, it came back and ejected the case.
The case was still showing scoring or roughness around the shoulder area and neck.
The case neck was split ,but that was old GI brass that I had loaded several times, so might not be the rifle.
This may have been the original cause of this whole problem, as the original stuck brass was really tite and showed scoring around the same areas. I think the gun was fired, put away in a damp area and never cleaned, there fore it rusted. So they didn't bother to check it again, took it out and fired another round the next season and the case stuck in the shoulder/neck area, they ripped off the rim and proceeded to try to drive it out with wood, when that failed, they left it in the bore to rust to the lands and grooves.
The bore looked pretty good, rougher than a corn cob, but I have seen worse.
So I think I'm done with this project, other than a good cleaning of the bore ( it's soaking in Kroil now) and a little touch up of the bluing that I scratched up, I can put it back together and get it out of my hair.
Thanks for all your help and ideas !! I think if we find this problem again, the Drill idea works pretty good but the fire wrench works too, just have patience .
Sorry bout the hijacked thread ! Thank's again for the help !.... "PJ"[smilie=s: