interested in swaging

[atom73]

Looking for some basic entry level swaging info. I have been casting plain lead for a while and would like to get into swaging. Any stickers or write ups on the "how to" for some basic techniques, looking for links etc. Thanks
Mike

[sargenv]

BT Sniper's 9 into 40 and 40 in 44/45 seem to be a good way to get into swaging. The presses needed are not that expensive and the dies can be had (when he has them) for a pretty good price. I started swaging on my Rock Chucker soon after I had the 9 into 40 die in hand... I did bugger up the original ram for my press and it has since been replaced with the swaging ram, but with this set up you can be on your way to swaging for likely under $400 cold.. and less if you've already been casting.. I use the Lee 6 cav 125-2R in 9mm for casting my cores.. and any 9mm brass I pick up at the range.. lead of choice is generally recovered berm lead.. usually air cooled and BHN in the 8-10 range.. though his dies will process lead cores up to WW hardness. I use a Rock Chucker with the swaging ram to do the hard part.. I seat the cores using a Dillon 650. You can do it on your single stage.. but it's a bit slower..

[buck1]

Lots of info here. what cals do you want to swage? What type of guns will they be shot in?
This will help point you in the right direction.
......Buck

[atom73]

I have a few old presses that I picked up at shows that are pretty stout, an old RCBS that is heavy and another really large cast iron press that I dont what brand it is but it looks like it could press pennies into BBs. I currently cast for my 45 acp, my 41 mag, my 44 mag, .223 rifle, .300 wsm to name the big ones. This may seem like a stupid question, but am I correct in reading that you guys are pressing lead cores into annealed casings as jackets? Very interesting as I have an abundance of soft lead (from dental x ray film) that I could use for that purpose without having to alloy it for plain lead casting. Tell me more!!!
Mike

[MIBULLETS]

Check out www.corbins.com and www.rceco.com, there is a ton of information there especially at corbins. If you can, download the swaging handbook there and read it over a few times. This will give you a very good look into swaging.

[Zbench]

Most of the guys on here like to make a jacketed bullet. I've recently been experimenting with just making a plain old lead bullet. I think it’s better than casting and the finished product is superior.

I've taken some pictures with my cell phone and posted them below, but the basic steps are:

1) Cast "cores" 3-5 grains heavier than the bullet you want to produce. I wanted to make some 124 grain 9mm bullets (since that is what is in my Hornady loading manual). So, I cast these in a .340 core mold at about 122 grains. Since the base guard (more later) weighs 6.2 grains, I only need about 118 grains. Notice the imperfections, some even have some voids on the side. All are usable as long as they weigh more than the finished core.

2) Weight form the core. This is done in a die which has a special bottom and top punch. The bottom punch forms a button which allows the base guard to be fastened to the bullet (acts like a gas check). The top punch in this case is a tapered cone which forms the hollow point. Once you have the die adjusted properly, any excess lead is squirted out of the bleed holes. You would think this takes a lot of force, it really doesn't. No more than resizing.

3) The next step is to form the point in the point form die. Also in this step the base guard is attached to the base of the bullet. The base guard is undersized and dome shaped. When it is squeezed in the point form die, it expands until it hits the die walls and the button on the end is crushed, holding it in place.

Also occurring in this step is the formation of the hollow point. Since the nose is V shaped, the lead curls around until it almost meets itself forming a large, pear shaped hollow nose. If you wanted to, you could completely close the end, or make it much more open than is shown in the finished picture.

4) The finished product is within .05 grains of each other and needs no lube. While Corbin says that they only work in 9/10 guns, I have not had any trouble with leading in any of the pistols I have tried them in. The base guard actually scrapes the fouling from the shot and cleans your barrel. No smoke, no sticky wax and exact weights. Additionally, no need to slug your barrel, you make them the exact size of the bore. When I questioned Corbin about this, he told me that since they are perfectly round and concentric, there is no need to make up for "imperfections" like those present in a cast bullet. He's right, they are accurate as I can shoot and work great. I think they probably take as long to make as cast, but they are better in my opinion.

Pictures follow.

Hope this helps. I'm using an S press and Corbin S dies.

Pete

[atom73]

Wow, tons of information. Thanks guys. My first project will likely be to start some .224 with spent .22 brass, that seems like a really usefull boolit to begin with, then who knows.
mike

[kawalekm]

See if you can find a copy of "ABC's of Reloading by Dean Grennell. Editions 1 through 5 have progressively more information about swaging. I think the 3rd edition is packed with the very most different bullets made by swaging. The newer authors though (Chevelier) doesn't even mention swaging, so stick with the Grennell authored editions.

[Ickisrulz]

Looking for some basic entry level swaging info. I have been casting plain lead for a while and would like to get into swaging. Any stickers or write ups on the "how to" for some basic techniques, looking for links etc. Thanks
Mike

Check out the videos on Ammosmith.com

He's got videos using the entry level CH4d equipment with a Rocker Chucker and then videos using Corbin's press and dies (two video series). These will give you and idea on how it's done and what equipment can be purchased and used.