Star issues

[96wa6]

I'm still getting the hang of my Star, and would like to ask a couple of things from you veterans. Basically, I'm getting both too much lube and not enough, both at the same time.

I use a little heat (because the basement is a tad chilly) with White Label's BAC. Is the Lube Chamber Spring pressure supposed to be able to squirt lube out through the die if there isn't a boolit there? I got the impression it was supposed to be actuated by the high-pressure pump. I turn the spring screw so there's barely any pressure, but it's still squirting, and I'm getting three lines of lube down each entire boolit (where it's not being sized)...

Oh, and I read the instructions before, during and after. The instructions say to turn the screw to compact the spring "an appropriate amount."

and ...

The high-pressure pump that is actuated at the bottom of the stroke pushes the lube a little harder, but it's still not fillling out at the front (towards me/away from the pump outlet). I have to do each boolit twice to get the lube groove completely filled. What am I doing wrong?

TIA

Marcus

[D Crockett]

I'm still getting the hang of my Star, and would like to ask a couple of things from you veterans. Basically, I'm getting both too much lube and not enough, both at the same time.

I use a little heat (because the basement is a tad chilly) with White Label's BAC. Is the Lube Chamber Spring pressure supposed to be able to squirt lube out through the die if there isn't a boolit there? I got the impression it was supposed to be actuated by the high-pressure pump. I turn the spring screw so there's barely any pressure, but it's still squirting, and I'm getting three lines of lube down each entire boolit (where it's not being sized)...

Oh, and I read the instructions before, during and after. The instructions say to turn the screw to compact the spring "an appropriate amount."

and ...

The high-pressure pump that is actuated at the bottom of the stroke pushes the lube a little harder, but it's still not fillling out at the front (towards me/away from the pump outlet). I have to do each boolit twice to get the lube groove completely filled. What am I doing wrong?

TIA

Marcus

(1) sounds like to me you did not fill 2 rows of the die with lead shot if there were 3 rows of lube holes (2) I also think you do not have enough heat on the lube to let it flow right (3) might need a tad bit more pressure (4) check to see if your bullet is lining up with your lube holes on the die that are open to do this adjust your top punch up or down a little bit at a time I use the same 2 bullets to get this part done then they go back to the lead pot for use as flux hope this helps D Crockett

[96wa6]

Sorry, I left that part out. Yes, the double holes are filled with shot. I have the punch adjusted well, so that the lube is centered in and flowing only into the lube groove. I moved it up and down so it centered the lube groove on the open holes.

When I said "three lines of lube", that meant the three open holes are still squirting lead as the boolit is moved through the die. The lines are on the nose and in the crimp groove and look like what they are - lube squirting while the boolit is moving into place even before I hit the high-pressure pump.

M.

[fredj338]

If the holes are still leaking lube under pressure, they aren't plugged well. The shot size has to be right or under pressure, you get leaks. With BAC, you only need about 86deg to flow. That could be it, but it sounds like you don't have the extra lube holes plugged properly. If you aren't tapping the shot into place, it's too small.

[cbrick]

I think Fred nailed it. Make sure the un-needed lube holes are plugged tightly, I use a small brass punch for this. Next, possibly too much heat and too much pressure for the consistency of the heat softened lube. Don't know what you mean by "a little heat", some lubes can be quite soft at around 125 degrees and this temp is easy to reach in a lubrisizer.

Another thing, you said your basement is cool. If your bullets are very cool it could help to slightly pre-warm the bullets before sizing/lubing.

Rick

[runfiverun]

turn the heat down or off.
then you can up the pressure.
pressure creates heat on it's own.

[96wa6]

The plugged holes aren't leaking and that's not what I'm asking. Guess I don't write so good. I think the last two posters might have it right; too much heat making the lube too soft and, therefore, too flowy. I'll try it with the heat off, and if that doesn't work, then the heat on low. (Basement's cool, but just 60 deg., not 40.)

Thanks all, and if you have other ideas, I'd love to hear them.

M.

[Doby45]

You should need no heat at all. I use a 50/50 mix of BAC and Carnuba Red in my Star and I use no heat at all and it flows nice. IF I apply heat I start to have problems..

[Springfield]

I find that more pressure and less heat tends to work better. I have 3 stars and lube a couple thousand bullets a week so take my experience for what it is, experience. I usually run no heat and 125 lbs of pressure with my soft BP lube. If the lube groove doesn't fillout I find adjusting the bullet up or down to find the absolute correct spot usually helps. The Star generates quite a bit of pressure so even if the holes aren't lined up perfect it will still pump some in there, just don't get enough volume for a complete fill.

[cajun shooter]

I will give a big +1 on the post by Springfield. I was going to give the same answer but his typing is faster. With most all lubes except those meant for commercial use turn off the heat or you will be chasing it. When this happens you need to walk away until the lube has set again as you will not be able to adjust soft mushy lube which is what you have been doing. Your lead might be find with the lube at room temp. Try one thing at a time. If your bullets have one small lube groove then close off the top rows. Your manual should have a chart of distance listings for setting up the punch distance from it's bottom to the top of the die. I two have in the past run three Stars at the same time and found that the best settings are when the punch is set deeper into the die. If you have lube on the nose then you must go deeper. One thing that will help out a lot is to save until you can purchase the air cylinder for it. It may be run off a common air tank purchased from Walley world. You don't use the air so you can just fill it at a station. I run mine on about 90 lbs with my lube.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Your manual should have a chart of distance listings for setting up the punch distance from it's bottom to the top of the die.

One thing that will help out a lot is to save until you can purchase the air cylinder for it. It may be run off a common air tank purchased from Walley world. You don't use the air so you can just fill it at a station. I run mine on about 90 lbs with my lube.

I recently aquired a used Star...No manual :(
Does anyone know of a source/link for an online manual ?
or does anyone have one scanned they could e-mail me ?
Or does anyone have a hard copy to sell...ya I know, I should
post that last line in the WTB section, I think I will.
Jon

PS. the air Tank idea sounds slick. Is it easy to adapt?
Do I have to remove the main screw ?

[ph4570]

Try this link for the Magma "Star" lubri-sizer:

http://www.magmaengineering.com/PDF/Star_Sizer.pdf

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

thanks ph,
that helps alot :)
Jon

[sagamore-one]

As previously stated; mimimum heat,consistant pressure, proper lube groove location, and sometimes it helps to warm up the boolits before you try to lube them. A cold boolit upsets the "balance" of heat and pressure, causing the lube to not flow all the way around the boolit, normally leaving a void in the front.

[Hammer]

I was having the same problems as 96aw6 until last night....

And then the skies opened!

My new air cylinder arrived from Magma and I installed it! All my problems seemed to disappear. I am only running mine on about 60 pounds, but I have a temp sensor on the mounting plate for the heater and can now control both independently. Will adjust accordingly by type of lube...

That may be the best hundred dollars I have spent so far! Okay, there was the air tank and the fittings, too....

I attributed the "excess" lube seeping around the bullet as not having my bullet perfectly aligned with the lube holes on the die. There is actually little bearing surface against the sizing die on a RN bullet if you look at the area sized. In my Star, the bullet has to be dead nuts on the groove or the lube will "ooze" as the next bullet is fed into the Star... I attributed this to the alignment, temperature and pressure not being "in harmony" so to speak. I think they all work together.

To 96aw6: Keep after it and be patient, it will come. When you can, spring for the air cylinder....

[pancho]

If your die is new ,check for three grooves on your bullet ,this are made by sharp edges on the holes of your die left there when was manufactured. the lube is scaping through the groves ,leaving those three spots of lube on front .Run soft sanpaper through your die ,while with a drill bit ( on your hand ) ,work the sharp edges out through the holes ,until the grooves are gone.

[fredj338]

You should need no heat at all. I use a 50/50 mix of BAC and Carnuba Red in my Star and I use no heat at all and it flows nice. IF I apply heat I start to have problems..
Not IME, if the air temp is below 60deg or so, I have to heat BAC a bit to get it to flow in my Star. If you were to slap a therm on the alum base, it's heating to about 84-85deg.