Anneal Cases In The Oven

[comershooter]

Can I anneal brass in the oven for swaging

[bdbullets]

In my experience it doesn't get hot enough to do a good job unless you have a self cleaning oven and run them thru a cycle of self cleaning then they will get hot enough.

[MIBULLETS]

I second bdbullets post. I do 22 cases all the time in the oven. Pistol cases can be done but need more time than the 22 cases.

[bohica2xo]

You might be able to soften cases in the oven, but a full anneal? Not likely.

They have to be HOT to get to a full anneal. There is more info in This POST (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=694120&postcount=9).

This comes up on here again & again. Buy a cheap propane torch & a firebrick. You can do cases in batches quickly. A soon as the front row goes red, move back to the next row. It goes faster as the rows pre-heat from the one in front of them.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_f9mZJsRJS54/TL8csG9LNPI/AAAAAAAAAL8/2nlbjLGYIJQ/s800/40hot.jpg

The case head may appear unheated while in the flame. If you move the torch it will be red.

B.

[MIBULLETS]

You hit it right on the head. A full anneal no, but is a full anneal needed for all applications? I don't think so. Usually depends on the amount of case head reduction you are after.

If I only need a few, I use a torch as well, but if the job I am working on works with cases softened in the oven, why not, I can do many more with less effort that way.

Point is, no way is necessarily right or wrong if it works for the specific task at hand.

[uncle joe]

an electra clean oven will get to 900 degrees during a cleaning cycle.

[Bollocks]

FWIW, I heat my 22 and 9mm cases in a pan on the stove. Crude but is has worked for me. The 9mm I draw to .354 and .307 without problems on a couple of CSP-1 presses. Point forming also is without issues (Corbin dies for 22, CH4D dies for 9mm and .30).

I'll try to post some pics soon of my boolits.

Chrs from the Netherlands,
BolloX

[badbob454]

i have read of knocking out the spent primer set them in water ,about half as deep as they are long with the bullet opening end up , and use a propane torch to anneal the ends this should be fast and effective iv read of 308 and 30/06 cases done this way .. have fun

[badbob454]

i must be ignorant but what is the purpose of a full anneal >? and wouldnt that weaken the primer side of the case ?

[Jailer]

i must be ignorant but what is the purpose of a full anneal >? and wouldnt that weaken the primer side of the case ?

They are talking about annealing the entire case to soften them so they can be swaged into jacketed boolits. The brass is the jacket, that's why the entire thing needs to be soft.

[badbob454]

thanks that makes sense

[badbob454]

i was thinking of making some cast bullets i have a bator .225 mold and wondered what i should use for low 1000- 1500 fps bullets perhaps 2% tin to 98 lead ? sized to .225 just in case mold is inaccurate and to help keep velocitys @ the same ... by the way midsouth has them in stock again 18.08 for a double mold lee brand

[badbob454]

They are talking about annealing the entire case to soften them so they can be swaged into jacketed boolits. The brass is the jacket, that's why the entire thing needs to be soft.

yeah i dont know anything about swaging bullets i guess they compress soft lead into a mold under extreme pressure , i have been reloading for @ 12 years and cast my own lead bullets use surplus powder and range pickup most of my brass :castmine::Fire: im too poor to start buying swage items , do they hold up to magnum , meaning 454 casull pressures ??

[Jailer]

yeah i dont know anything about swaging bullets do they hold up to magnum , meaning 454 casull pressures ??

Not sure. When I get some loaded up and test them I'll let you know. :D

[John Boy]

As soon as the front row goes red, move back to the next row.
Bohica, that red color is pushing 1000 degrees. The proper annealing temperature is 650-680 degrees with the color going from a dark straw to a bluish/green

Plus I have never heard annealing the whole case to be a good thing. Only the case mouth

[Jailer]

Bohica, that red color is pushing 1000 degrees. The proper annealing temperature is 650-680 degrees with the color going from a dark straw to a bluish/green

Plus I have never heard annealing the whole case to be a good thing. Only the case mouth

See post #10 ;-)

[bohica2xo]

Bohica, that red color is pushing 1000 degrees. The proper annealing temperature is 650-680 degrees with the color going from a dark straw to a bluish/green

Plus I have never heard annealing the whole case to be a good thing. Only the case mouth

It BETTER be over 1000f. We are talking about a FULL ANNEAL for the purpose of reforming the entire case into a bullet jacket here.

A full anneal is the bast path to a consistent production of jackets. Different manufactures, reloaded brass etc. can leave you with different case hardnesses.

A self clean oven may peak @ 900f, but it needs to hold that temp a long time to get to a full anneal.

.

[7of7]

I have an old plumbers furnace... can't regulate the temp very well, but it sure works great for annealing... a few minutes on the heat, stirring the contents of the pot, and everything is red hot...