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dragonrider
09-19-2006, 08:53 PM
Today I got tired of ladling from one pot to the other, had to be a better way to keep the casting pot full, so I came up with this. seems to work ok.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/PaulGauthier/double%20pot%20stand/doublepotstand007.jpg

Turned the base around on the top pot and screwed to the plywood platform.

Four Fingers of Death
09-19-2006, 08:55 PM
That's cool! MIck.

grumpy one
09-19-2006, 09:55 PM
Now if you just put the drippier one on top, you'll have a partly self-replenishing casting pot. I always knew Lee has a good reason to make those pourers leak.

Geoff

Buckshot
09-20-2006, 01:19 AM
..............Some time back, the author Henry Beverage wrote an article about doing basicly the same thing. However he connected the valves. When you poured a slug from the bottom, the top one supplied lead into the bottom pot to replace it.

..................Buckshot

georgeld
09-20-2006, 04:02 AM
Double the electricity too.

Am trying to get a friend on here. He's got some casting equip for sale.
Just got the right link sent awhile ago.

I haven't been online much the last month. Hell of a storm busted some of my big tree's up. Been playin lumberjack. or firewood cutter at least. Am still tryin to heal up from back surgery last Nov. This tree work is some dandy PT. Do feel a whole lot better after getting back to doing some work for a change.

Then a week ago, the flu hit. Can't win much. Still feel like H.

Got a new Lee 6 cav .45 250gr SWC that's just begging to be broke in out there.

Anyone use Lee's Alox on .45Colt bullets?
How's it work?

What's a decent load without getting the heavy recoil I've been having with 20gr H110. Have a fresh jug of this, so would like to use it up first before buying another powder. So please suggest charge's with this one IF you can.

Thanks much,

dagamore
09-20-2006, 07:23 AM
very slick setup. I would run a few long threaded rods up to the top pot, just so that it has more support then just the stand. They are good pots, but mine always tened to bend/flex down too much when loaded up. just my 2 cents.

AZ-Stew
09-20-2006, 04:26 PM
This is one of those things that makes you slap your forehead and give the good old Homer Simpson, "DOH!" yell.

Great idea, Dragonrider. I'll have to build one of these for my casting setup. I have a new Lee 4-20 and an o-o-o-o-l-l-l-d-d-d Lee 10-pounder. Should work great together.

Thanks for the tip and photo. :drinks:

Regards,

Stew

Nazgul
09-20-2006, 09:56 PM
I have used a similar setup. Found that the molds for the BPCR cast more consistently using a ladle. Put the 20lb bottom pour on top to keep the smaller dipper furnace replenished. Works well.

HTRN
09-21-2006, 04:21 PM
I want to use a similar setup with Cast Master (http://www.magmaengineering.com/item.php?id=5) acting as a "premelt" for a MasterCaster (http://www.magmaengineering.com/item.php?id=33), only instead of a direct linkage, a float switch would be used.

Magma uses basically a similar concept in their Mark 7 machine.


HTRN

Idaho Sharpshooter
09-24-2006, 02:31 AM
I just got mine done and test drove it this afternoon. I want to alloy enough (150-200lbs) at one time to be sure of the mix. I got a 12" square piece of hot roll and a 10"W x 12" tall piece of well casing, four 6" long 1/2" bolts and went to work. I heated the 12"x12" and dimpled it about 3" from one corner. I then drilled a 3/8" hole and threaded it. Built a line from a foot of 3/8" ID pipe, a 90-degree elbow and a valve. Cut the 12" pipe into two pieces 2 1/2" and 9 1/2" long. threaded the dimpled hole and threaded the short piece of pipe into it. Threaded the elbow onto that, and then the longer piece into that, making a drain line that droops about 1" due to the dimple. Put the valve on it. Took the piece of well casing, and welded it to the 12" square, centered. Had drilled the four corners and used four 6" 1/2" bolts threaded into the holes to make my legs. The burner fits underneath with ears/flanges to the four corners. I crank two of the bolts down 1/2" lower and the pot drains into ingots easily. Made them out of 2" angle, six pieces 12" long with the ends welded to 4" hot roll. Welded an 18" x2" handle on it and put 1" x2" oak handles on that. Holds 180 or so pounds of alloy, and drains fine. When I am making 620gr bullets for my 510 Kayser Express (416 Rigby necked up to 50 caliber (think 510 Wells Express, but no steeenkeen belt) or the new 750gr .550 RFN for my latest wildcat creation, the 505 Gibbs necked-up to fifty-five caliber when it finally gets here, I will need that big pot. The 550's will run about 9 1/2 to the pound, the .50's about 10 1/2... whole lotta lead pouring pretty fast.

Good post earlier on the Harbor Freight thermo-couple unit. Will get one in the morning.

Rich

robertbank
09-24-2006, 12:04 PM
Now I know why we Canucks all got slanted foreheads. What a simple solution to a simple problem. Great idea! Thanks. Going to buy a Lee 20# pot and I'll use my old 10# pot as per your set-up.

Note to myself - "Bob you have no mechanical ability."

Take Care

Bob

dragonrider
09-24-2006, 12:26 PM
Idaho Sharpshooter
Got pics????????????

Blacktail 8541
09-26-2006, 11:09 PM
Great ideal, may need to buy a lee pot for my Pro Melt.

hammerhead357
09-28-2006, 10:49 PM
Guys, I don't get time to post much but I did basically the same thing years ago with 4 rcbs pots. I mounted 1 over the other like this for 2 sets of pots and used a float in the lower pot with a very small chain up and over a small pulley and connected to the upper pots handle. This worked very well for me, it kept the lead level on the lower pot pretty consistant and allowed me to pour one heck of a lot of bullets per hour. I got my idea from an older cast bullet book but theirs were set up with a handle linkage. Wes