Annealing- how can you tell?

[HammerMTB]

Here's my situation-
I have a lot of '06 brass, most of it LC from the '60's. Some of it is starting to split necks when I size. It needs to be annealed. The easy part.
Now the more difficult part. I tried several systems, and each has a slightly different result, but I am unsure just how much heat I need to get the job done. Since there are several hundred cases to be done, it would be good to establish a standard so they are consistent.
I tried: dipping the neck in 650F lead for 5, 10, and 15 seconds. 15 seconds seems to be enough, I "think". There's a definite difference when sizing after that. There is no color change of the brass when dipping, tho, and little after cooling.
Next: Using a propane torch to heat the neck until it just turned color. This certainly did the job of annealing. It's slow is my main complaint.
I don't have a hotter torch, but I could get a MAP gas torch. That might be a bit quicker.
My real question is, how can I tell when the brass has been heated enough to be annealed? does it in fact need to change color? Or is there a certain temp threshold that is enough, and it is before the color change?
Your experience and feedback appreciated..... :coffee:

[fredj338]

Tempilsticks seem the easiest to get the temps right.

[madsenshooter]

I'd put the cases in a Lee Trimmer shellholder that was in my battery powered drill, spin them in the propane flame until they started to turn color then dunk the case and the trimmer in a bucket of water sitting next to it. It doesn't take long that way, and I didn't get burnt. I've seen those fixtures, such things are for guys that just gotta have a tool. It doesn't take long to get a caseneck hot enough, turn the lights down, you'll see the change sooner.

[geargnasher]

+1 on the Lee trimmer base and drill. I use polished brass and go by the color of the brass, not the glow. If it glows you're too hot.

Gear

[looseprojectile]

Hold the rim in your fingers, turn 360 degrees back and forth in a propane torch with a large flame till it just starts to change color. Drop in a pile on the bench.
I can do a hundred in fifteen minutes. Develop a cadence.
If you don't heat a case more than three quarters to an inch you will not anneal the lower part.
The idea is to heat the neck and shoulder "just" hot enough to anneal "just" that part.
No need to drop in water. Mine turn out looking just like milsurp annealed cases.
Too much heat will ruin a case. Better to err on the side of too little heat than too much.
Has to be kept simple for me:roll:.

Life is good

[KYCaster]

Rather than mess with the shell holder just get a 1/4 or 3/8 socket adapter to chuck in the drill, add a socket slightly larger than the case head, put a case in the socket, anneal, tilt to dump, repeat as necessary. Very quick.

Jerry

[badgeredd]

Rather than mess with the shell holder just get a 1/4 or 3/8 socket adapter to chuck in the drill, add a socket slightly larger than the case head, put a case in the socket, anneal, tilt to dump, repeat as necessary. Very quick.

Jerry

+1 It doesn't get much easier or faster than that.

Edd

[RobS]

Similar to a tempilsticks, but will not turn black and be hard to determine the change, is Tempilaq which is a paint that will melt when it hits the temp it is rated for. Easier to tell what is going on.

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