Annealing in an oven?

[thx997303]

I just got to wondering, if one were to stick your brass in some sort of heat sink, and put their brass into an oven at a specific heat, would it work?

Seems like it would be easy so long as you had a proper heat sink.

[lwknight]

I think , No Way Jose'

[thx997303]

I already know what your thought is, annealing the web.

Note I mentioned a heat sink though, one that covers the web.

I guess what I'm really wondering is if there is something that would prevent the web from getting annealed while being easy enough to use.

[lwknight]

I think you want insulation to protect the case head and web.
I really think that the oven would heat so slowly that the heat would transfer the entire length if the brass before it got hot enough to anneal. Thus even insulated parts would get as hot as the necks.

Maybe if you had a 1200 degree oven and the cases were standing up in shallow water and that might work. I'm pretty innovative on a lot of things but this one exceeds my imagination for a practical way to gang treat brass.

I think that even the LC brass is individually annealed by flame on some automated conveyer system.

[geargnasher]

Common ovens won't get even close to hot enough to do the trick. Keep in mind that brass has a VERY high thermal conductivity, higher than water, so even water wouldn't keep the case heads cool for long.

Gear

[lwknight]

Definately , conventional ovens are a no go.
Even with efficient thermal conductivity , the part of the case that is actually in water will not exceed the boiling temperature of the water as long as there is water.
Thats the other problem. You don't get a lot of time before shallow boiling water becomes No water.

[qajaq59]

I'd say you're stuck with the torch. However they do sell machines to anneal cases. And I remember someone in the forums made one that looked like it would work well. I can't remember who it was though.

[cbrick]

Here's an article by Ken Light on annealing with the Ken Light BC-1000 Anealing machine.

Cartridge Case Annealing with the BC-1000 Annealer. When, why, how and if to anneal (http://www.lasc.us/CartridgeCaseAnnealing.htm)

If your interested in the machine here is Ken's web site.

Ken Light Manufacturing, The After Market Sight Specialist (http://www.kenlightmfg.com/)

I have one of Ken's machines and it is extremely well built.

Rick

[thx997303]

Yeah I guess I'm stuck with the torch.

Oh well. I was just wondering.

[geargnasher]

Good article, Rick, and further proof that those of us educated in the sciences tend to lose our ability to spell!

Jeremy, what calibers are you wanting to anneal?

Gear

[cbrick]

Here's an article by Ken Light on annealing with the Ken Light BC-1000 Anealing machine. Rick


Good article, Rick, and further proof that those of us educated in the sciences tend to lose our ability to spell! Gear

Touché, now the only question is:

Who stole that "n"?

Rick

[thx997303]

Ian, I plan on annealing my 45-70 brass.

A few pieces have exhibited poor neck tension, and others have told me that it is a sign of being too hard.

So I'm going to anneal all 100 pieces so that I will have consistent case neck tension like I had when the brass was new.

[HangFireW8]

Ian, I plan on annealing my 45-70 brass.


Anneal away, but do nothing to heat the rim, base, web of the cartridge case more than your fingertips can stand. You simply don't want a very soft cartridge case in that area because unsupported parts will blow out and remove bits of rifle and anatomy.

I used to do the propane torch/rim in fingertips, drop in water thing, now I sit the head in a pan of cool water and tip them over when they are ready. Also red hot is completely unnecessary.



A few pieces have exhibited poor neck tension, and others have told me that it is a sign of being too hard.

So I'm going to anneal all 100 pieces so that I will have consistent case neck tension like I had when the brass was new.

If you anneal them too much, they will be too soft and also not exhibit good neck tension. Just heat them until you see colors running up and down the brass (not red-yellow hot glowing, just color change), and then dunk them.

-HF