Ladle Pouring

[onesonek]

I decided to ladle pour instead of using the lee 10 lb'r I was given.
With all the reading I been doing, I don't always find the answers for my ?'s.
Unfortunately I don't know anybody real close that can show the ropes at first. So alot will be trial and error.
I would be interested in hearing those of you that ladle cast your boolits,,, in your methods/technique.
Also I was wondering if one should leave sawdust flux on top , and gently strain/ push aside with a strainer scoop I have while dipping and drawing out the ladle.

[Mk42gunner]

I use an RCBS ladle that has a fin on the bottom to clear the oxide scum away before filling the ladle. There are many ways to pour, from having the ladle spout in the srpue hole and rotating the mold, (not real comfortable for me), to holding the mold upright and pouring with a small air gap between the spout and mold.

You will have to experiment to find out what works best for you and your molds.

One thing make sure you preheat the ladle, this will drive any moisture out of it before you stick it under the surface of the melted lead.

Robert

[selmerfan]

Ditto what Robert said, I use a Lyman dipper and keep the top of my melt clean. I tried the ladle spout to sprue hole method right away when i was starting out and it was a royal PITA. I went to pre-heating the mold on my hot plate and carefully, but quickly, pouring the lead in the hole. MUCH better success, YMMV. I'd suggest trying both ways and see what works best for YOU.

[mooman76]

I guess I'm the odd man out. I use the Lee ladle and have for years. I scoop or push the crud to the side and scoop out the clean lead. When I get enough crud mound up I scoop it out and discard it. Preheat the moulds good like others said. Make sure you heat the sprue plate too. The Lee moulds I dip in the lead with the tip of the sprue too for a slow count of about 24 for DC moulds. I discovered I don't like dipping the steel moulds so I just heat them by setting them on top of the pot while it warming up. If the lead cools too quick on the sprue before entering the mould I pour lead on the sprue and let the excess run back into the pot to warm the sprue. I also like to start out a little hot until the moulds warm up and gradually taper off the heat until I get to the ideal temp. It should take aproximately 2-3 seconds for the casting to cool enough to open it.

[Jack Stanley]

I have one or two molds that like to have the mold and ladle hot , get a scoop of lead , make contact with the sprue plate and rotate . With those molds and that system they work better than any other method .

Some of the larger molds I have like either bottom pour or and open face ladle with and air gap . So far I haven't found a one or two cavity mold the likes an open ladle any better than bottom pour or the spout .

Since I cast down in the dungeon and I don't want to smoke the castle up to badly , I will stir with a stick for a bit but haven't used sawdust . I used to leave a layer of clean kitty litter on the surface when bottom pouring . When ladling , I don't leave anything floating on the top . When the crud gets thick it goes into the can I take to the metals dealer .

Jack

[montana_charlie]

I scoop or push the crud to the side and scoop out the clean lead. When I get enough crud mound up I scoop it out and discard it.
...you can lead a caster to molten metal, but you can't make him flux...

[Von Gruff]

...you can lead a caster to molten metal, but you can't make him flux...

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Von Gruff.

[cuzinbruce]

On a mould with separate sprue holes, I use a RCBS or a Lyman dipper. Fill the dipper, hold the mold horizontal, put the nose of the dipper against it, then rotate both to vertical together.
On a couple moulds with a trough in the top of the sprue plate, I use a larger open ladle, or the smallest Rowell ladle, mould is sitting vertical on the bench, pour from one end to the other, filling each cavity and getting a long sprue. This on 4 cavity Hensley & Gibbs moulds. Beats holding a large, heavy mould under a bottom pour.

[excess650]

I usually pressure cast with a ladle unless doing so causes fins and whiskers. In that case, I don't completely mate the ladle spout and sprue hole so as to moderate the head pressure. My old Lyman ladle is my favorite, but I do have an RCBS (handle too long, and fin on bottom makes it too big). I also have Rowell bottom pour ladles, but reserve them for making alloy in the dutch oven.

I flux often, and don't use kitty litter or sawdust. I think those are better for guys who bottom pour and want to keep the top of the melt from oxidizing. Carnauba wax flakes are my flux of choice.

[noylj]

I think I am either very confused or cuzinbruce has his vertical confused with his horizontal.
Is there some reason I seem to be the only one who fluxes, frequently?
I have always bottom-poured and use vermiculite on top.
This may not work for others, but when i have a problem with keeping my aluminum molds hot, I sometimes will bottom-pour and then put a corner of the mold into the melt for a few seconds. Sort of a re-casting of the bullets.

[Changeling]

Tell cuzinbruce the guy was asking about "Ladle" casting.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

There are different types of ladles and dippers and different ways of using them. Molds also have "personalities" so there are really no set rules for ladle/dipper casting that fit all the possiblities. You have to try/experiment with a dipper using contact and rotation or pouring from a distance above the sprue hole and evaluate the results. A dipper usually has a "teat" on it. A ladle (like in soup ladle) is an open cup like device from which you can only pour. Once upon a time they were used as well to fill multi-cavity(gang molds)...the trick was to "pour going Uphill". Dipper/ladle casting was once the only game in town as there were no bottom pours around and casters poured excellent bullets that set many records. When you find the method that you are comfortable with and that gives you good bullets, stick with it. Being left handed or right handed is not really relevant as you can teach yourself how to do anything and do it well. Its a matter of practice. Pick the equipment that works best for you and you will succeed. Continue to ask questions and forum members will always answer and help you over any rough spots. LLS

[Bret4207]

Agree with those who point out you have to find your own style and more importantly, what the individual mould wants. Some want an air drop, some want contact, some don't care, some need huge sprues and others are indifferent. It's an art, not a science.

Do yourself a favor- when you figure out what a particular mould requires WRITE IT DOWN!

[onesonek]

Thanks guys! I kinda figured it was more of an art than a science. As not unlike reloading, each barrel/bullet combination has it's own likes and dislikes. So I imagined molds/alloy's would be similar in nature. It is interesting to hear what other's do and experience, as it gives me ideas on what to do if something isn't working right.

[FAsmus]

There is a fellow named Ed Wosika who described a system he called "pressure-wave casting" ~ or something like that; he has a name for everything.

The deal he was describing was how a fellow can pour alloy into the cavity rapidly, even kind of "hitting" the hole with the stream from the ladle, causing a pressure wave to form as the metal flows from the ladle then into/around the beveled hole in the sprue plate. Then, even when you know the cavity is full, continue to pour alloy into it, causing the hot alloy to swirl around inside, even lightly pressurizing the cavity such that no voids can form and all corners will be filled out.

The procedure will indeed fill the cavity completely every single time. Bullet weights will be very uniform, even in heavy, hard-to-cast large caliber 45s and 50s. Stuff like 30 caliber bullets are easy ~ weight typically holding to +/- 0.25 grains. Cycle times will also be good, making it readily possible to run 2 - 300 bullets an hour with a DC mold.

Good evening,
Forrest

[selmerfan]

Hmm, the technique FAsmus pointed out is generally how I cast boolits. I just discovered it plain old works well, maybe that's why I'm not having the weight consistency trouble others seem to have...

[bigboredad]

I use a soup ladle with a 3/16 hole drilled in the side and i use the technique that Fasmus described it works very well and corners and bases are almost always filled out and sharp and as My wife says they come out very bullet like

[mdi]

Last night I was going through my copy of "Cast bullets for Beginner & Expert" by Joseph Brennan, and I've been using it for my casting refrence for several years. Mr. Brennan shows a lot of just plain old common sense for casting, loading, and shooting lead bullets and when talking about casting he stated "The way to learn how to cast bullets is to cast bullets". I think that's the way too. I prolly don't ladle cast like anyone else here as most will use "their way" for pouring lead. Even though I own a Lyman and an RCBS ladle, I still use my Lee ladle a lot, and my style does produce some pretty good boolits. Hearing everybody's techniques is great but you gotta just melt some lead and start pouring...:-P

[dahermit]

Hearing everybody's techniques is great but you gotta just melt some lead and start pouring..I agree. I have been pouring um since about 1965. What I have learned is that each mold is likely to be different in the technique required for success. It takes some experimentation with technique. What works for an RCBS 124-RN does not work for an RCBS 201-SWC.