What kind of 98 Mauser Bolt is this?

[Uncle Grinch]

I have a 98 Mauser (DOT 1944) that binds when cycled quickly. I thought it may just need honing some as the action has some tooling marks.

However closer inspection revealed it doesn't have the traditional guide rib under the extractor. Other than the gas vents being smaller it looks good.

Anyone got any ideas on this "odd" bolt?

Here are some pictures comparing it to a standard 98 bolt...

[Buckshot]

............Sometimes the extractor may be a tad too wide, and it may bind a bit going through the reciever bridge. Have you checked the bolt for straightness with a straightedge?

................Buckshot

[Combat Diver]

If made during late 44', it could just be a wartime short expedient. Germans were still turning out tons of equipment til the end and cutting corners as much as possible.

CD

[NickSS]

It probably is a manufacturing expedient near the wars end also note the round gas holes rather than the oblong ones on a standard bolt. As for being sticky 98 mausers have a tendency to be a little that way and without a guide rib this would be accentuated.

[oldhickory]

I have to agree with Buckshot, I had a sporterized M98 that did the same thing, changed out the extractor and it works smooth now.

Just checked, that particular M98 doesn't have a guide rib either. Doesn't seem to matter much though. You'r binding culprate is the extractor.

[Multigunner]

My Model 1895 had a guide rib milled into the left hand lug track. The slot in the left lug rode the thin guide rib till reaching the ejector blade.
I haven't seen another Mauser with that feature.

[Uncle Grinch]

............Sometimes the extractor may be a tad too wide, and it may bind a bit going through the reciever bridge. Have you checked the bolt for straightness with a straightedge?

................Buckshot

Buckshot,

I have stripped down the bolt and action and it binds as it is pulled back quickly. This is with a completely bare bolt and action, no extractor or collar, no ejector or receiver sights; just the bolt and receiver. I believe this bolt is a late war production and the guide rib was eliminated in manufacturing. I plan on beveling the back edges of the lugs very slightly to see if this helps. Everything in the action has been honed smooth.

[Sanchez]

Uncle Grinch, re: "However closer inspection revealed it doesn't have the traditional guide rib under the extractor. Other than the gas vents being smaller it looks good".

That bolt is in a kreigsmodell configuration, meaning 'War model', which is a late item. The guide rib was eliminated here, along w/ the milled (slotted) gas vents (vents were drilled on a kreigs bolt). The receiver will also lack the broached narrow clearance slot @ 12:00 for the earlier guide rib.

Pretty normal for these ......

[flounderman]

is the barrel the original or has it been changed? if the barrel has been changed, someone could have twisted the action trying to change the barrel without the proper tools.

[Mk42gunner]

Uncle Grinch, re: "However closer inspection revealed it doesn't have the traditional guide rib under the extractor. Other than the gas vents being smaller it looks good".

That bolt is in a kreigsmodell configuration, meaning 'War model', which is a late item. The guide rib was eliminated here, along w/ the milled (slotted) gas vents (vents were drilled on a kreigs bolt). The receiver will also lack the broached narrow clearance slot @ 12:00 for the earlier guide rib.

Pretty normal for these ......

I've had a few Mausers without the guide rib that still had the clearance slot.

I would first check the bolt with a straight edge, then try another bolt in the receiver; just to see if it would work. Don't try shooting it with a different bolt unless you check the headspace.


Robert

[Sanchez]

" ... Mausers without the guide rib that still had the clearance slot":
Not surprised, as some left the factories this way - very late in WW2. There are also thousands of bolt MM RC's in similar config, sporting mixes of early/late components.

" .... try another bolt in the receiver; just to see if it would work":
Best advice so far ......

[Uncle Grinch]

Thanks for the feedback... My DOT 44 receiver has the guide channel milled into the top of the rear receiver ring.

I tried this bolt in 3 other 98's and it still wants to bind up, so I put a very small bevel on the rear edges of the bolt lugs (they are hard!). It really seemed to help quite a bit.

[Sanchez]

Thanks for the feedback... My DOT 44 receiver has the guide channel milled into the top of the rear receiver ring.

I tried this bolt in 3 other 98's and it still wants to bind up, so I put a very small bevel on the rear edges of the bolt lugs (they are hard!). It really seemed to help quite a bit.

"EX-Elent" -Monte C. Burns

Just hope it wasn't an all maching VBB here .....

[Uncle Grinch]

"EX-Elent" -Monte C. Burns

Just hope it wasn't an all maching VBB here .....


Nope... it's a parts gun that I picked up on a trade. It's got a Norwegian NOS .308 barrel and is drilled and tapped for Lyman receiver sight.

Glassing an old Turk stock for it now. Hope to make it a cast boolit gun!

[JFrench]

Uncle Grinch,
I would be very careful grinding the bolt lugs. A better idea would be to coat them with blue dykem or a poor mans dykem( a sharpie) and find out where the problem is. I have found twisted receivers and bolts destroyed by grinding on the lugs. The last bolt a large letter NS I purchase in a 1903 Springfield from CMP was ground on the lugs to fit the reciever. This was a greek return and CMP armorers did not catch it during inspection.
James

[Uncle Grinch]

Uncle Grinch,
I would be very careful grinding the bolt lugs. A better idea would be to coat them with blue dykem or a poor mans dykem( a sharpie) and find out where the problem is. I have found twisted receivers and bolts destroyed by grinding on the lugs. The last bolt a large letter NS I purchase in a 1903 Springfield from CMP was ground on the lugs to fit the reciever. This was a greek return and CMP armorers did not catch it during inspection.
James
Thanks James for the comments. I did use dykem and found the rear edges os the bolt lugs were "grabbing" the inside of the lug raceway after being drawn back and pulled to one side as you operate the action. The bevel was very minor, ie... less than 1/16 of an inch and then was honed to relieve and burrs.

If this bolt had the guide machined into it to match the receiver, the bolt would not be pulled to one side as it was drawn rearward, since the guide would capture the bolt in the channel of the upper rear receiver ring.