What lube to use on Lee mold

[mrappe]

I just got this mold today and it says to use lube on it. What is good to use for that? I did not know to order anything special.

[Muddy Creek Sam]

Bullplate from Bullshop.

Sam :D

[docone31]

I don't use any.
As it goes through the heating and cooling cycles, it develops a layer that keeps it all moving.
I run my molds hot, so any lubes I might have would ash out.
I run them bare.

[ph4570]

High quality 2-cycle synthetic oil works well for me.

[sqlbullet]

+1 on 2-cycle synthetic oil. Used it on Monday and it worked great.

[Recluse]

Tried them all.

Bullplate, hands down.

Only lube I use on molds, period.

:coffee:

[btroj]

Bullplate.
Bet that is the predominate answer you get here.

Brad

[mrappe]

I will probably order some Bullplate but I don't know if I can stand to wait for a month to get it.
In the mean time I will try the 2 cycle oil. That is the stuff that you mix with gas for the string trimmer etc. Right? Any brand preferences. The Lee instructions say to lubricate the v ribs but I am not sure what they are. Also it said to put carbon on the cavity with a match. Do you do this every time before you start?

[John Boy]

I just got this mold today and it says to use lube on it. What is good to use for that?
Permatex Anti Seize Lubricant (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm) on ANY mould! Buy a 1 oz tube at any automotive store

[geargnasher]

Permatex Anti Seize Lubricant (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm) on ANY mould! Buy a 1 oz tube at any automotive store

Not so much. It adds thickness to the alignment points of the mould if you use it on there, the oil carrier weeps out and wicks everywhere you don't want it, it's messy as heck and gets all over everything (even a speck will cover like 850 square feet!) and doesn't really lubricate anything. Does keep the sprue plate from galling the blocks pretty well.

So now for my recommendation: Bullplate. :smile::smile::smile::groner:

Gear

[Recluse]

Permatex Anti Seize Lubricant (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/lubricants/specialty_lubricants/Permatex_Anti-Seize_Lubricant_a.htm) on ANY mould! Buy a 1 oz tube at any automotive store

Glad it works for you. It was the biggest disaster I've ever experienced for my Lee molds. Just as Gear pointed out, it baked on the ribs and everywhere I applied it except for the sprue plate. There is managed to seep down into the vent lines and my fillout went to hell in a handbasket.

I took to scrubbing, heating, polishing, etc to get rid of the residue. Way too much trouble for a $20 mold--I just tossed it and made a note to never, ever use that stuff anywhere near my casting table again.

It's great stuff for auto/mechanical applications. I have three four-ounce bottles of it--one at my boat hangar, one in my garage, and one in my airplane hangar. I use it religiously, just not on my molds. :)

But again, I'm about the results and not the methods and I'm sure there are casters who are still using beeswax to lube their molds with and getting very pretty boolits.

Me? Bullplate is it. Best stuff I've ever seen, tried or used. (Oh, and it doesn't take a month to get it. Last order I placed with Dan, I mailed him some cash and I had the lube in less than two weeks.)

:coffee:

[BouseBill]

Bullplate, no doubt about it. wait the two weeks and order some, you will not regret it.

[reloader28]

I agree. Get the Bullplate.

In the mean time, try using a quick touch of bullet lube on the mold. Wipe the excess off. Mine works almost as good as Bullplate.

[wallenba]

I apply Bullplate to the bottom of the sprue plate and screw, but nothing on the alignment pins. I have used other lubes on the pins and always had trouble eventually with sticking, pulling out, and difficulty closing. I don't think Bullplate would hurt, but I have found it unnecessary.

[Papa Jack]

I believe my Lee instruction sheet says to use their bullet lube ( 50/50 alox/beeswax) in the molds.
You don't need much, just a tiny amount on the handle hinge bolt and you might put a tiny bit on the bottom of the sprue cutter to keep it from gauling the top of the mold blocks. Be careful here, you don't want to get the lube inside the mold. Get the mold warmed up and just melt a little on the areas you think need to be lubed. I run my alignment pins dry...
I do this, and it seems to work for me...Sounds like the Bullplate is the stuff to get, I guess I;ll have to put an order together... "PJ"

[mrappe]

I tried some 2 cycle oil (Small amount) and it seemed to work so far.

[lwknight]

I find that beeswax like any wax finds its way into the cavities and makes uglies.

[jbelder]

Bullplate all the way!!!!!!!!!!

[zuke]

When you order your Bullplate, order at least 2.
I've heard rumour's that some guy's knock a bottle over so why have to place 2 order's.

[Shooter6br]

Ditto for 2 stroke oil.

[Markbo]

I just need to make sure I understand... the cavities of the molds should NEVER be lubed, right? All this is strictly for the sprue plate? Because statements like ...."Lee instruction sheet says to use their bullet lube ( 50/50 alox/beeswax) in the molds".... sure makes it sound that it is being used in the mold cavities.

[fryboy]

I just need to make sure I understand... the cavities of the molds should NEVER be lubed, right? All this is strictly for the sprue plate? Because statements like ...."Lee instruction sheet says to use their bullet lube ( 50/50 alox/beeswax) in the molds".... sure makes it sound that it is being used in the mold cavities.

no - any kind of lube in the cavity promotes badly filled out castings ( cant consider carbon from soot a lube altho lyman made their ideal lube with lamp black ermm soot ) worse just a lil extra oil/wax on the sprue pivot screw can and will gravitate to the closest hole and make the bases not fill out , it can be invisible even and it will make the boolits seem as if from a cold mold no matter how hot the alloy and mold is = un-needed aggravation