help please

[garbear]

I made some lube I'll be using for my muzzle loader. Here is what I used I used 50/50 bees wax and crisco. My lube was still to hard so I add some corn oil about 3 teaspoons still to hard to lube. I am hoping to use this for prb and maxi ball. Right now it is probably good for a pan lube for my 357 which I may try. Any way some help please?

[Tom W.]

whittle off some shavings from a bar of Ivory soap.. just a little, and melt it down and stir it well..
I prefer a stiffer lube for my Maxi balls, , & for prb I just use plain crisco...

[HORNET]

Without adding any Ivory soap, you've got a mix that's pretty close to Emmert's Lube, one of the classic black powder lubes. It's also reported to work well with smokeless loads up to around 1400 fps or so. You might want to add a little (5%) anhydrous lanolin to soften it a tad and make it stickier for better adhesion so it doesn't fall out of the grooves. Dale53 is a big fan of it and it's discussed in one of the stickies. Good stuff.

[runfiverun]

titch more crisco. and the lanolin does add softeness and tackiness i'd try it first.
have you tried it in temperature variations?
what you have now might be perfect in summer. or a mess.

[Taylor]

I use basically the same recipe,but sometimes add olive oil(that's what i have)It is quite different in winter vs summer,just have to adjust as needed to work.

[Shooter]

+1 on the olive oil. I use it as a patch lube and rust preventive between seasons. Too much gets sticky.

[Shooter6br]

Junior lube is a good wipe on lube. He used I beleive 4 -1 lard( or Crisco) to beeswax.

[wiljen]

Murphy's oil soap works well too. I've made lube for BP using Beeswax, Murphy's, Olive Oil, and lanolin and it has worked to my complete satisfaction.

[Maven]

garbear, Here's a recipe for you:

Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. (A double boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.


Btw, I've no idea who Stumpy is or why he calls this brew "Moose Snot." Also, Emmerts Lube is another easily concocted BP lube (Google it). Both will flow through a lube sizer if need be.