Casting bullets, Mold block problems!

[Buckrun]

I started casting some bullets Sunday afternoon. It has been a couple years since I did any casting.

I found one of my molds for .45 acp has a problem. The screw that holds the sprue cutter has a locking screw. That screw has a screw driver slot in it and I can’t turn it to lock the sprue cutter screw so it keeps loosing or tightening while casting.

I don’t know why but it has a mind of its own. It will loosen up and I have to keep tightening it. Then it got so tight while cutting the sprue that I couldn’t use it.

What I want to know is a Lyman steel mold block hardened? I want to drill out the screw and re-tap the mold and put a allen head set screw in its place.

Also what kind of glue / epoxy would you use to hold the wood handles to the mold handle? I have a couple handles to replace and one that is loose.
Thanks
Steve

[Southron Sanders]

Lyman blocks are made out of SOFT IRON! I know because I have drilled and milled enough of them! The iron is "as soft as butter."

Here is how to Pernamentley solve your "loose spure plate screw" problem:

1. Remove the sprue plate screw, lock screw and sprue plate.

2.Use a drill press to drill completely thru the block (leaving the handles attached.) Use a drill that is the same size as the present sprue plate hole or slightly larger.

3. Go to your local hardware store, carrying your mould with you. Select a "Grade 5" or better bolt that is long enough to go completely thru your block (with the sprue plate on) and having the threaded portion of the bolt hang out on the bottom of the block about 3/4 an inch or longer.

4. Then ask where they keep their coil springs. Get a coil spring of the right size that you can put on the bottom of that bolt and secure it with a washer and nut.

5. You can increase or decrease the pressure of the head of the bolt holding your sprue plate down by screwing the nut looser or tighter as that compresses or relaxes the coil spring.

6. Adjust the pressure of the coil spring to the optimum pressure.

7. I generally use High Temperature LOC TITE to secrue the nut.

I DO THIS MODIFICATION TO ALL OF MY LYMAN MOULDS. It dosen't take that long to do and it pernamently solves the "hassle" of your sprue plate loosening during a casting session.

TRY IT, YOU WILL LIKE IT!

[excess650]

I use high temp RTV to keep the handles tight.

[turbo1889]

. . . . what kind of glue / epoxy would you use to hold the wood handles to the mold handle? I have a couple handles to replace and one that is loose. . . .


I use "Gorilla Glue" for this purpose. The stuff expands as it dries so it is perfect for any kind of internal socket kind of glue joint such as the metal prongs on mold handles that go inside a hole drilled in the ends of the wood handle units.

[e15cap]

Put a piece of lead shot in that screw hole, should stop it from turning.

[Mk42gunner]

4. Then ask where they keep their coil springs. Get a coil spring of the right size that you can put on the bottom of that bolt and secure it with a washer and nut.


????? I would think the temperatures that moulds run at would soon draw the temper of a small coil spring.


Robert

[462]

Two nuts, instead?

[billyb]

[QUOTE=Mk42gunner;998207]????? I would think the temperatures that moulds run at would soon draw the temper of a small coil spring.


The mod that Southron describes is the from the factory set up my Magma molds were made with. the system works verry well. The only drawback is the bolt sticking below the bottem of the mold. i use the Lee bottom pour pots and adjust the mold rest where i can use it. If you have a pot with a mold rest that is where you can not rest the mold one one side of the mold this mod probly would not work for your set up.The heat does not harm the springs on my magma molds. I have four molds for my 1911's that have cast thousands of boolits with ant falure. Bill

[Buckrun]

Thanks for all the quick replys. I will be heading out to the shop to work on the mold blocks that I am having trouble with later today.

Thanks again
Steve

[theperfessor]

For a long time Lyman used a split lockwasher as a "spring" to hold down the sprue plate. The sharp corners dig into the sprue plate and bottom of sprue plate screw. Get rid of this! Otherwise it will keep loosening up the screw. I just use a stainless steel flatwasher, others use a wave washer. Both work OK.

[casterofboolits]

I use a concave spring washer, like Saeco uses, under the Lyman split lock washer. Makes for a much smoother sprue cutter operation. Also a piece of lead shot under the lock screw to reduce backout.

[94Doug]

I have a print of an article from Handloader, they marked the top of the sprue screw and filed the contact point where the set screw hits flat. just another approach.

Doug

[Dale53]

Handles will loosen with any brand of handles (the heat drives moisture from the wood, the wood loosens on the handle and if not "fixed" the wood handle will break - been there, done that[smilie=b:).

I have several sets of handles (my ambition is to get a set of handles for every mould I use - I currently have about 75 moulds:groner:).

At any rate, when I get a new set of handles, I drill right through the ferrules and handles with a 3/32" drill. I then tap a 3/32" x 1" roll pin (also called a tension pin) clear through and grind off both ends flush with the ferrule. The "loose handle syndrome" is solved FOREVER. I have tried various epoxies and glues - some work ok and some do not. I MUCH prefer the pin solution.

I got a 100 ct bag of pins from Fastenal for just a few dollars (your local hardware store will sell them to you one at a time for many times the "per pin" cost).

Dale53

[Echo]

+1 for the shot under the grub screw, and the wave washer.

[bhn22]

You could also just file a small flat on the shank of the sprue plate screw where the setscrew contacts it when the mould is assembled & adjusted correctly. You can reuse the old lock washer style spring if you file a bevel on the sharp edges that contact the screw & the sprue plate. I've come to prefer this remedy over using the cone type washers supplier with Lyman rebuild kits. Ditch the slotted locking screw & replace it with an allen head screw. I do like the lead shot idea, but still feel the need for the flat on the screw.

[Buckrun]

Well I went through all my molds. I ground a flat on the sprue bolt for the locking screw. I had one mold that had a slotted screw to hold the sprue bolt that I couldn't get out so I drilled it out, tapped it 1/4" 20 and replaced it with a allen set screw.

I used the Gorilla Glue on the handles of a couple molds. I had to tweek my Lyman pot. The knob was spinning all the way around and the shaft came out. It is a wierd set up. But got it all back together.

I also picked up double and single burner hot plates. I have never use the hot plates before. Will give it a try. I have always had to use a large aluminum heat sink to try to cool my molds. Usually only run 2 or 3 molds at a time.

I cast 50 lbs of bullets last weekend and found all these problems. I hope to crank out some bullets this weekend.

Thanks for all the help
Steve