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View Full Version : Why are my boolits smeared like this?



Gunslinger
09-06-2010, 02:31 PM
I use a Lyman sizer and dies. I've sealed the top holes in each side with shot pellets like instructed on this site. But they still come out looking like this. And it annoys me... it makes for sticky cartridges which I would like to avoid :shock:

Sorry for the poor quality, but I think you will be able to se what I mean.

uncle joe
09-06-2010, 02:36 PM
Try adjusting the plunger stop at the bottom of the press up a little so the boolit will only go down far enough for the lube groove to be at the level of the first row of holes in the die.

hiram
09-06-2010, 02:37 PM
My guess is that lube is getting by the plugged holes or the bullet is going to far down into the die.

Try loosening the lock nut on the threaded adjusting rod. Screw the rod up so the bullet can't be pushed down as far as it is currenly going. Tighten the lock nut. It looks like the threaded rod should be screwed up at least 1/8".

geargnasher
09-06-2010, 02:55 PM
Those boolits are too small for the sizer. What's happening is the lube is blowing past all the bands and that makes the little arches on the noses above each of the four lube holes in the die.

Your mould might be too small, the sizer too big, or, more likely, you have poor band fillout from a cold mould, not enough tin, or calcium or zinc contamination of the alloy.

Gear

missionary5155
09-06-2010, 03:08 PM
Greetings
One or all of the above are correcto.
Start with some basic measuring of the boolit and the sizer... If the boolit is the same diameter as the sizer than that at least is not the problem.
Next try reducing the Lube Pressure...
Be sure the boolit is NOT entering the die too deep.

HeavyMetal
09-06-2010, 03:28 PM
When I worked with a Lube sizer such as the Lyman, I'll use the 45 as an example, I learned that I needed a tool that would give me much more control over pressure than the "stock" rachet tool.

I then made a tool using a 1/4 inch drive socket that fit the pressure screw but did not have the rachet feature.

In use I would put the boolit "down" into the size mode twist to add lube to the groove and instantly twist it back to relive pressure!

This would lube the boolit groove but not squeeze an excess amount out and around the boolit, or worse, allow it to get under the boolit base.

I also found that lubing undersized boolit's, even by .0005, would net me the results in your picture.

In answer to your question: If the boolits are completely "polished" for the full diameter of the boolit bearing surface then they are not undersized and you need to reduce lube pressure.

If they are not completely "polished" you need another sizer die or you need to make your boolits a touch "fatter".

I would also check to see if I could play with the depth adjustment a bit as well, Rround nose boolits are notorious for the type of issue your having.

Hope this helps.

Gunslinger
09-07-2010, 02:33 AM
If I adjust the screw further up the boolit won't get any lube, I've tried that.

I cast pretty fast, so my boolits are more likely to be oversize than undersize. The boolits measure .3575 - .358 as cast. And the die is (or at least supposed to be) .357.

I have an RCBS lubesizer with RCBS dies as well. Here i experience no problems what so ever.

When i get home I will try lubing another kind of boolit. If that turns out okay, I must be inconsistencies with the land area as someone mentioned....

txbirdman
09-07-2010, 10:26 AM
It's the shape of the bullet (ogive). I use to get this with the 452374 for my 45 auto. The bullet is going too far into the die. I started putting a dab of hot glue on the die nut and trimmed it until it stopped the nose punch handle short of full stroke. Works for me. I bet you don't have that problem with SWC's do you?

JIMinPHX
09-07-2010, 06:43 PM
For one thing, don't block the top holes. Use the top holes & block the bottom holes.

If you are using a lube heater, try to use less heat.

montana_charlie
09-08-2010, 02:38 PM
Use the top holes & block the bottom holes.
The lower holes are already 'blocked' by the ejector rod.
CM

JIMinPHX
09-08-2010, 08:59 PM
The lower holes are already 'blocked' by the ejector rod.
CM

If the rod fits properly, that is true.

I've had problems blocking the top holes with shot, because the shot pushes in & gets shaved by the rod when it goes past. I've also has problems with the shot pushing in & putting a groove in the boolit.

canyon-ghost
09-08-2010, 09:45 PM
Found out some time back that it's much easier to drop lubed boolits in some mica and wipe the lube off later. Mica is a lubricant itself, so it doesn't interfere with seating. I drop them in a 1# coffee can, put a teaspoon of mica in, and roll it around. Then, back to sizing and add another thick layer. Takes around 3 teaspoons or so to a batch of bullets. I can leave them stored in it, and can reuse it if the stuff on bottom isn't too dirty.
Hope that helps some,
Ron

geargnasher
09-08-2010, 09:50 PM
Always block the bottom holes, because the two planes of holes are close together, and to get the top plane aligned with the lube groove often locates the ejector just below the top part of the bottom plane of holes on the bottom of the downstroke. Leakage will result without plugs, but the ejector will keep them in place even if it goes partway below them.

A helpful tip: Cut short pieces of 1/8" tin solder and peen them into the holes using the ejector as an anvil, then trim flush on the outside of the die body with a sharp knife.

Gear

crabo
09-08-2010, 10:58 PM
And the die is (or at least supposed to be) .357.



You need to measure your boolit after sizing, and then again after it has had a chance to age. They sometimes grow.

I have some Star dies that do not size to the size that is marked on them.

codgerville@zianet.com
09-12-2010, 02:36 PM
What gearnasher said.