The waiting is over!

[madsenshooter]

I bought a used Marlin 336 in 35 Rem a couple months ago. It was made in 1955 and has cut rifling, rifle looks as though it has been carried more than shot. I've been waiting a month (seemed a lot longer) for BaBore to get a 360-220GC finished for me, it arrived today. I think I set a record (for me) in getting enough bullets cast to fill the 60 cases I have. A couple cycles in the oven, then getting the mold hot enough to cast the first few bullets frosty was all it took to get me casting keepers, even with a hollowpoint pin in one of the cavities. Within the next couple days I should have the sizing, lubing and loading done, and a range trip will be in order. In keeping with the rifle's age, I have a Weaver K4 and a Norman Ford Texan ringed up with Lyman Tru-Lock rings. Now all I have to do is figure out how to fit these things into the middle of the several Krag projects I have going on at once.

[izzyjoe]

i'm shure you'll love it that 35, cause i do like mine. i'm waiting on the 359-190 grp. buy, and can't hardly stand it. but good luck to you on the other projects too. :Fire:

[Newtire]

I bought a used Marlin 336 in 35 Rem a couple months ago. It was made in 1955 and has cut rifling, rifle looks as though it has been carried more than shot. I've been waiting a month (seemed a lot longer) for BaBore to get a 360-220GC finished for me, it arrived today. I think I set a record (for me) in getting enough bullets cast to fill the 60 cases I have. A couple cycles in the oven, then getting the mold hot enough to cast the first few bullets frosty was all it took to get me casting keepers, even with a hollowpoint pin in one of the cavities. Within the next couple days I should have the sizing, lubing and loading done, and a range trip will be in order. In keeping with the rifle's age, I have a Weaver K4 and a Norman Ford Texan ringed up with Lyman Tru-Lock rings. Now all I have to do is figure out how to fit these things into the middle of the several Krag projects I have going on at once.

I have one of those things and it is a real shooter. Mine has never been drilled & tapped for a scope so put a Lyman receiver sight on it.

There was a 185 grain round nose plain base bullet (can't recall which one but not on the Lee site anymore) that works great with 12.6 gr. Unique at 1650 fps on the chrono and then the Ranch Dog which I've shot down to 1600 with the same Unique load & up to 2200 fps with H-335.

For some reason, those rifles seem to be plentiful on the market but that will probably change in a few years. Sounds like a keeper to me.

[madsenshooter]

Yours must be older than mine, I thought they all came drilled and taped. Here's few pics of BaBore's hollowpoint. I've loaded them a tad long, just the width of the crimping groove, because my Redding die set the shoulder back on new cases. The throat is very short, the lands very sharp, it was certainly carried more than shot. In my alloy the solid weighs 212gr, the hollowpoint, 204.6gr. I've loaded them over 20gr of Blue Dot which should yield around 1839fps @ 31222PSI. When I reload them I'll go with a rifle powder, I wanted a quick bump cause I'm sized about half a thousandth under bore diameter, I think. Barrels with an odd number of lands and grooves aren't easy to mic, but I'm close.

[Newtire]

I'm sized about half a thousandth under bore diameter, I think. .

For what it's worth, mine are sized to .359"

[madsenshooter]

.3605 in my case, but it appears I have a .361 groove diameter barrel, close as I can measure. After this I'll shoot them as cast, they drop at .361-.362, maybe I should've gotten BaBore's .363 version, but I think I'll be ok, I'll know for sure Wednesday! I have a head swagging die that I used to make 6.5 Jap out of .308 and a bunch of military brass. Since the die brings the head diameter of the 7.62 down to .460, guess what's going to happen to that brass now that I have this rifle?

[missionary5155]

Greetings
The only thing better than a .35 is a .375 !
Personally I always try to ere on the side of the boolit being too big... Especially when dealing with a Marlin.

[gon2shoot]

Mine is .359 and is really happy with the Ranch Dog boolit. Yer gonna like that gun.

[excess650]

I'm gonna have to have a look at mine because I thought it had 4 lands and grooves. Mine was made in 1950 or so and was never D&T for scope.

[madsenshooter]

I'm gonna have to have a look at mine because I thought it had 4 lands and grooves. Mine was made in 1950 or so and was never D&T for scope.

Could be yours does, mine is a 7 groove. There are some knowledgeable and helpful folks here: http://www.marlin-collectors.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9689

[madsenshooter]

Well, I got around to shooting it today, was fun while it lasted, but after 40 rounds, I now have a 336 that goes "click", no bang. Firing pin isn't hitting the primer and it looks awfully far back behind the boltface, may have broken off, but I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like. Guess I better find info on bolt disassembly. With 20gr of Blue Dot, the 214gr solids averaged 1906fps, ES of 46, SD of 14. Groups weren't that great, 3-4in. The lighter HP averaged 1923fps with the same charge, and grouped tighter than the solid. I only got to shoot one 10 shot string of them before it started going click.

Yep, she's broke! Better now then when on a hunt I guess. Bolt disassembly advice anyone, remember this is a pre-crossbolt safety rifle. Thanks ahead of time, I know one of you has done it before.

[Denver]

After you remove the bolt, you have to remove the extractor. There are 2 crosspins holding the 2 piece firing pin in the bolt. One under the collar of the extractor and the other toward the rear of the bolt. Use a drift punch to remove the pins. There's also a small leaf spring between the 2 pin pieces. It forces the rear of the pin downward out of alignment with the front part of the firing pin when the bolt is opened. You should be able to get the firing pin to come out by tapping the rear of the bolt on something that won't cause any damage to the bolt.

[madsenshooter]

Thank you sir! Which way do the pins come out, upward or downward?

[Denver]

Can't remember, but I don't think it matters. I'd try downward first.

[Terryrm1-03]

Happy shooting to you BoB, with that 35. I just aquired an original Winchester 73, 38-40. I've been on here a bit getting help. Got the ole girl shooting 2"-3" groups at 100yds. With BLUE DOT! HEE! HEE!. Funny to see you elsewhere than the Krag forum!
Good luck with that Marlin! There good guns!
Take care TerryR

[madsenshooter]

Hi ya Terry! Got this for the wild hogs back home in SE Ohio. Way things are going, looks like I'll be moving back there soon. I suppose one of my cutoff Krags shooting the 311284 would do just as well, but I've wanted a 35 Rem for a long time. Now all I need is a job! Answer is A) Up, or B) Doesn't matter, but I chose A and it worked. Thanks again Denver, wonder where that other piece went to?

[madsenshooter]

Hollowpoint vs solid. This is one tough alloy I've cooked up. The test medium was soaked newsprint/phonebooks at 100yds. They weren't soaked quite long enough and things were getting dry in the middle. I'd put the paper in one of those P.O. plastic boxes then soaked them. Boy did they ever expand, had to cut the box apart to get anything out! The HP went 14" or so before stopping, the solid was within 4" of penetrating the box lengthwise. I've no doubt that semi-wet, highly compressed paper is tougher than any deer or wild hog. The solid turned sideways for about the last 6". My preference would be the HP unless I was hunting big bears, and I wouldn't be doing that with a 35 Rem if I had a choice. I found another of the solids about 4" behind the one pictured. It had about as much shank left as the HP, and had also turned sideways. Could be a bit unstable at the velocity obtained. That'd explain why the HP grouped better with its CG further to the rear. I think I can safely get the speed up a bit to better stabilize the solid.