Powdered graphite in lube

[Armorer]

Reading through the archives I had come across several references to using graphite for various things and it made me wonder about using it in a lube. From what I have read, it would seem that most folks wouldn't use it because it tends to sink in a liquid carrier. My question is: has anyone tried a different carrier that was thicker and added graphite? If so, did it have any effect either positive or negative on the boolit? The reason I ask is because I have access to off-cut pieces of graphite at work and it's very easy to powder. That and I can't leave well enough alone. Especially if it's free or cheap.

[jhalcott]

I have used powdered graphite AS a lube and mixed in a few. results were NOT good enough to continue the practice. Graphite is a good lube for the Neck INTERIOR when sizing. It allows the expander ball to exit easier and in general does not effect the powder(just use sparingly) and removal is not needed. A little goes a long way.

[870TC]

I have seen several references of people trying to duplicate the Pope lube recipe, which used graphite. Along with the graphite not wanting to stay in the suspension, they also had difficulty obtaining a fine enough grade of graphite.

[geargnasher]

I think Col. Harrison pretty much covered that, IIRC his conclusion was that solids such as powdered graphite, talc, etc were a detriment rather than a boon to conventional lube. That being said, lots of well-researched and well-tested conclusions from yesteryear have been overturned by folks not willing to settle for someone else's "I said so". Remember that NRA 50/50 lube was his crowning achievement at the time, and since then folks like Felix, Veral, and Glenn have had their go with lube development, so just about anything can be improved upon.

Graphite, like other dry lubes, works by shear. It shears against itself with next to zero friction even under great pressure. That's why it works so well as a powder kernel lube. It loses it's effectiveness when forced to rub directly against another substance like barrel steel or lead. When in lube suspension, graphite never gets to contact the barrel metal or the boolit directly, it's always coated with lube, so it acts more as a thickener than anything. Getting consistent results might be a challenge, too, because the concentration of the graphite is difficult to regulate.

Good news, though, is you can experiment away because you aren't likely to hurt anything by using it!

Gear

[Armorer]

Good news, though, is you can experiment away because you aren't likely to hurt anything by using it!

Gear

Now that is what I wanted to hear! Unless something would cause harm to me or my weapon, or otherwise generally screw things up, I'm not really of the mindset to listen to "because I said so". So experimenting looks like a good option. I'm thinking beeswax, JPW and when it congeals add some graphite. Worst case scenario is that I make a mess I think. It may very well end up like jhalcott said "not good enough to continue". Thanks for the input y'all. I certainly appreciate it.

[Mugs]

Back 60+ plus years ago when I was learning to cast all the lube my dad made was graphite. He used a mix of beeswax parafin and graphite. You had to stir till it started to get thick to keep the graphite mixed in
Mugs
IHMSA 5940L

[JIMinPHX]

Graphite is a funny lube. It needs a little humidity to work properly. Basically, graphite lube powder exists as a bunch of microscopic little plates. The plates are so small that water molecules act as ball bearings between them. That's how it helps things to slide so easily. Unfortunately, when you remove the free moving water molecules, it becomes an abrasive. That's why it can't be used an a lube in outer space. At least that is what the engineers over at NASA told me. I don't know how it works as a boolit lube.

[John Boy]

Here is Harry Pope's recipe using graphite ...
H.M. Pope, about 1900 - 3 mutton tallow, 2 bay wax, 1 beeswax, 1 steam cylinder oil, .2 of 1 acheson graphite. The bay wax could be omitted.

I tried to find acheson graphite to no avail

[shotman]

Moly is much better and stays mixed

[Armorer]

[QUOTE=JIMinPHX;984489]Graphite is a funny lube. It needs a little humidity to work properly.

Here in SE Texas we don't have to worry about not enough humidity. Quite the opposite in fact. I understand what you mean though. Would the humidity still be a factor in a lube inwhich the graphite was suspended and essentially kept from the air? Chances are the whole graphite thing will be a no go, but I am enjoying getting everyone's take on it.

[NoZombies]

I sometimes use lubes that are so soft they can be sticky. I've been known to dust lubed boolits with graphite dust. I can't say how much good it does, but it makes them easier to load, and I haven't discovered any adverse effects thus far.

[Recluse]

In one of my early stick lube formulas, I tried including some powdered graphite into the mix. Frustration is the best word that describes that experience.

I made up two batches--one with graphite and one without. Lubed loaded and shot 100 identical 148WC (.38 Special) loads and could not tell one single, solitary benefit with the lube containing graphite versus the lube without except that the loads using the graphite-included lube actually left the gun and barrel dirtier than the non-graphite lube.

For the mess and hassle with no obvious benefit, that was the last time I ever considered using graphite and boolits together.

:coffee:

[GP100man]

When I first started castin I lubed with liquid mule snot then tumbled em in graphite .

Made a heck of a mess 1 time in the house & that was the end of loadin inside !!

[Good Cheer]

Remington used graphite wax on their swaged lead pistol bullets. Still have some of their 32's and 45's with it.

[noylj]

Whatever Remington uses on their swaged 148gn L-HBWCs sure works great. It looks like graphite and grease and it works great even if almost totally wiped off. Hornady's invisible wax on their 148gn L-HBWCs works OK, but i have gotten leading.
It may be messy, but the Remington lube should work great for the .45ACP. I can't imagine it being any good at much over 800fps.

[lurch]

Graphite is a funny lube. It needs a little humidity to work properly. Basically, graphite lube powder exists as a bunch of microscopic little plates. The plates are so small that water molecules act as ball bearings between them. That's how it helps things to slide so easily. Unfortunately, when you remove the free moving water molecules, it becomes an abrasive. That's why it can't be used an a lube in outer space. At least that is what the engineers over at NASA told me. I don't know how it works as a boolit lube.

I was told long ago that the graphite in boolit lube acted as an abrasive in this application. It was supposed to be useful for for polishing up the bore. I don't know how much truth there is in that but on the surface it at least seems plausible. I'd bet that it would take a lot of rounds down the bore to make much difference. I've got a bunch of lube my father made that is a beeswax/paraffin/carnauba/vaseline/graphite mix. It seems to work pretty good for pistols but I stick to FWFL for rifles. I did re-melt it to cast solid sticks for a SAECO machine and the graphite seemed to stay in suspension pretty well once things started to cool off to where I was ready to pour into the stick molds. If anyone is interested, I've got the proportions laying around somewhere.