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Catshooter
08-24-2010, 06:40 PM
One of my pet peeves with all moulds is that they are two loose pieces. And I've dropped more that one because of it.

After doing a bit of thinking about it, this is what I came up with:

http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo235/Catshooter45/Misc/Mouldmods001.jpg

I stuck one in the mill vise and extended the hole for the right hand screw that the mould mounts to the handles all the way through the sprue plate. Then I extended the screw threads ( 8 x 32) all the way through the sprue plate. The mould on the left has a funny looking sprue stop pin because that's a 429215 mould that I milled the top of mould down until the gas check was gone.

For storage I reverse the handle screw and run it down through the sprue plate and that locks both halves and the sprue plate all together. :)

For casting I run a small set screw into the hole in the sprue plate to keep lead out of it. You can see it in the first pic. I also drilled & tapped a short hole in the bottom of one mould half to store the set screw in when storing the mould which is also in the first pic.

Here's another pic:

http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo235/Catshooter45/Misc/Mouldmods003.jpg

The older moulds have handle screws that aren't threaded full their full length like the new ones are, so I bought some new (brass) screws and made a few new ones.

Seems to work and I'm a happy camper.


Cat

JIMinPHX
08-25-2010, 04:08 AM
I just use a rubber band. Interesting idea though.

Catshooter
08-25-2010, 11:48 AM
Jim,

That's way too simple! :)

I tried rubber bands but mine always seem to rot off quickly.

Besides, I'm retired and have a milling machine, what can I say?


Cat

JIMinPHX
08-25-2010, 03:02 PM
If rubber bands don't last, you might try ty-wraps.

If you're bored & looking for something to do with your mill, then you might want to take a look at this thread - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=45741

Catshooter
08-25-2010, 10:22 PM
I looked at your thread Jim, very nice. I am leading up to doing just that sort of thing.

I don't have and don't want to build a double-acting vise so cherrying is out. My lathe won't swing enough for lathe boring.

However, I do have a rotary table for my mill and I think that'll be the route I go.

Did you make any further progress with your moulds?


Cat

Centaur 1
08-25-2010, 11:36 PM
Back in the days before cnc machines we did everything on rotary tables. Maybe you could practice on that mold that you milled down, the one with the half round /half square stop pin, that way you can make it round again. :kidding: I love the idea though, I'm a retired tool maker myself and as soon as I get a mill I'll give it a try.

Buckshot
08-26-2010, 02:00 AM
.................Twenty years from now someone is going to post a photo (probably a hologram) and say, "I need some help. I bought this mould at a gunshow, but I can't get it open because it has a screw down through the plate on top. Does anyone know how this is supposed to work"? :groner:

.............Buckshot

JIMinPHX
08-26-2010, 02:58 AM
My lathe won't swing enough for lathe boring.


Your lathe can't swing 4"???

Catshooter
08-26-2010, 09:13 PM
Your lathe can't swing 4"???

Nope. It's a three inch Sherline. Pretty small, but I like it.

Buckshot & Centaur, I laughed at both of your posts. Too true, too! :)


Cat

ReloaderFred
08-26-2010, 09:24 PM
I cut 1/2" wide bands from a bicycle innertube to put around my two cavity molds. The innertube doesn't rot out like rubber bands and is just the right size for the molds. I've got about a dozen molds for the Magma Master Caster and it's perfect for them.

Hope this helps.

Fred

StrawHat
08-27-2010, 07:44 AM
I use a piece of string with a slip knot but your fix is a bit more refined.

If you need machining projects, I have a medium long wish list of small projects, if you are interested.

Catshooter
08-27-2010, 05:00 PM
If you need machining projects, I have a medium long wish list of small projects, if you are interested.

Isn't that the plain truth fer most of us? :)


Cat