Reload 7.62x39 - Question.

[kristian55]

Hi.
Possibilities of cartridge 7.62x39 and length of bullet(1.05''-1.32'') - does enable to make reload of heavy bullets from 150 gr.to 220gr.-240gr..
Question-who did do that reload of heavy bullets?
Opinions and recommendations interesting.
Thank you for an answer.

[Nobade]

I'd say it depends on your rifle. I have a CZ bolt gun chambered for this round, and it shoots heavy bullets quite well. 1:10 twist will stabilize 220gr. cast bullets fine, and it has a very large and long throat. You must be careful of overpressure in such a small case with large bullets, but loaded properly it is quite accurate.

[Trapshooter]

Welcome to the Forum Kristian55!

If you look to the top of this page, there is a "sticky" post from Robert Bank that has some information about a load for a 200 grain cast bullet. I've not tried them myself, but it is on my list of things to do.

Trapshooter

[kristian55]

I'd say it depends on your rifle. I have a CZ bolt gun chambered for this round, and it shoots heavy bullets quite well. 1:10 twist will stabilize 220gr. cast bullets fine, and it has a very large and long throat. You must be careful of overpressure in such a small case with large bullets, but loaded properly it is quite accurate.

Hi all.
Thank you.
My SKS of 1953 of,Tula, authentic,
tvist 200mm.(1:7.87) .
http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=74927.0

[Larry Gibson]

I also have a 1953 Tula SKS in excellent, if not new, condition and an excellent Mini MKX bolt action. The heaviest I've used is 311291 and 311041 at 176/177 gr. The reason is the heavier bullets (311284 and 314299) have to be seated way too deep for the cartridges to fit the magazine. I can seat long and single feed but that is a pain in the SKS and in the bolt gun if the cartridge is not fired ejection can only be done by removing the bolt, another pain.

With the 311291/311041 the AOL is 2.25" and the best load is 22 gr of H4895 in IMI or WW cases with WLR primers. Velocity is only 1440 fps but the accuracy is good. I get the best accuracy and performance with Lee's C312-155-2R over 27.5 gr of H4895 ith the IMI/WW cases. Velocity is 1850 fps. With milsurp or IMR 4895s 26 gr gives a 100% loading density and about 1750 fps. I have also modified the gas tube on the SKS to moderate the violent ejection. I also use a GB 150 gr WFN bullet that casts out at .314 in the bolt gun with the same load as it feeds from the magazine. It is not a reliable feeder in the SKS though.

Larry Gibson

[Dschuttig]

Isn't the C.E. Harris bullet designed for the 7.62x39mm 150gr's? You can find the article by C.E. Harris on the net, he describes optimum loads for this bullet. Dan

[RU shooter]

I have loaded a plain base version of the lyman 311290 that was 220 gr. with light charges of Unique and 2400 with good accuracy. velocity was subsonic but that was my goal anyways.

[kristian55]

I have loaded a plain base version of the lyman 311290 that was 220 gr. with light charges of Unique and 2400 with good accuracy. velocity was subsonic but that was my goal anyways.
Hi all.
Interesting information
It is possible more detailed and in details about the load of bullet 220gr. ( who is a producer of,name bullet),a load is weight of gunpowder, name of brass.

[Old Goat Keeper]

Go to www.castbullet.com , Junior Doughty's web site. Under the shooting or reloading sections he has an article where he worked up heavy boolet loads for his sks in 7.62X39.

Tom

[missionary5155]

Good morning and WELCOME Kristain55
We have had 6 (just 2 now) SKS rifles and my family & we have shot bucket loads of the Lee 155 grainer with 17-18 grains 1680 up north there. For hunting we have uped that charge until accuracy fell off. Some rifles are a bit different there.
The rifle was designed for a much lighter projectile so the design parameters do finally restrict boolit weight. But I have not yet heard of a corn cruncher popped through the heart or lungs with a 50/50 mix 155 boolit that walked home to write about the experience.
Even piggy´s seem to get demissed with that boolit cast in WW.

[Abert Rim]

Larry: What did you do to your SKS gas tube to moderate the violent ejection?

[Larry Gibson]

Larry: What did you do to your SKS gas tube to moderate the violent ejection?

It's easy to do but also easy to mess up if you don't go slow and adequately test. Photo shows my two modified gas tubes.

Larry Gibson

SKS GAS TUBE MODIFICATION


SKS rifles are notorious for their violent ejection of fired cases. This may be desirable on the Russian tundra at 20 below but for the reloader trying to find the brass it is intolerable. The following modification will allow the rifle to function reliably yet will deposit the brass into a small area to the right front of the shooter. It also will lessen the hazard to bystanders. Velocity of the ammunition used is not effected.

Use standard 7.62x39 ammunition or the equivalent handload with 123-125 grain bullets when making this modification. The gas system of the SKS allows for more than enough gas port pressure to drive the piston back in the gas tube and cycle the action. This was designed this way to ensure absolute reliable functioning in extreme temperatures and conditions. What this modification does is simply to “vent” the gas after it has imparted enough motion to the piston to cycle the action with out driving it so violently back. As this modification vents the gas rather quickly the use of other than standard ammunition to regulate this cycling may cause malfunctions then when standard ammunition is used.

Attention cast bullet shooters: if you want to shoot really reduced loads with light bullets then regulate it with that. With Lee's 312-155 or heavier bullets I've found functioning to be fine with the conversion made for standard ammo. When medium burning powders (4895, etc.) are used and velocity is in the 1600 fps range I've not had any malfunctions. However, further venting was required when velocities of 1800+ fps with the 155 gr are used to make the ejection tolerable. I have one gas tube that I use especially for this load.

To accomplish this modification it will require the following tools:

15 drill bits from #45 (smallest) to #31 (largest)
Center punch
Small round file
Electric drill, cordless or hand drill if power is available at range.

Before going to the range remove the gas tube from the SKS and take out the piston. On each side of the gas tube center punch .22” back from the face of the gas tube. Center punch .35” back from the face of the gas tube directly on top. Now drill each with the #45 drill. You will now have 3 holes, one on each side and one on top. The hole on top will be slightly further back from the ones on the sides. Deburr the inside of the tube with the file lightly and reassemble the piston into the tube and assemble it back onto the rifle. Load up the tools, ammo and rifle and head to the range.

Fire 5 rounds and observe the ejection pattern and how violent the action cycles. Drill out the top hole only using one size drill larger at a time. Test firing with at least 3 rounds between each drilling. You must disassemble the gas tube each time to drill.

NOTE:
I have found on several Russian SKSs that with 2 side holes of #45 size and the top hole of #31 size they will lay the brass into and area of about 3 feet diameter about 6-8 feet to my right front when shooting from a sitting position. The recoil of the rifle is much easier to manage as the action is not functioning nearly so violently. A couple have required the 2 side holes to be enlarged to #40 drill bit size.

Several Chinese SKSs have required an additional hole .3” behind the top one. If the first three holes have not “vented” enough gas then drill this 4th hole. Again starting with the #45 drill bit and going one size larger with a test firing each time.

CAUTION
It is easy to get impatient and drill to much too quick without adequate test firing, DON’T!! You can’t put the metal back. New gas tubes are available at gun shows and out of Shotgun News for a reasonable price. If you’re not sure of your abilities get one first and try it before messing up the original. I have not messed any up using the above method. I have two extra tubes (original chinese tubes that fit the Russian with minimal fitting) that when used on my favorite Russian SKS will lay the brass almost within arms reach.

[Abert Rim]

Wow! Thanks Larry!

[Bloodman14]

Would that work on a Yugo 59/66?

[kristian55]

It's easy to do but also easy to mess up if you don't go slow and adequately test. Photo shows my two modified gas tubes.

Larry Gibson

SKS GAS TUBE MODIFICATION


SKS rifles are notorious for their violent ejection of fired cases. This may be desirable on the Russian tundra at 20 below but for the reloader trying to find the brass it is intolerable. The following modification will allow the rifle to function reliably yet will deposit the brass into a small area to the right front of the shooter. It also will lessen the hazard to bystanders. Velocity of the ammunition used is not effected.

Use standard 7.62x39 ammunition or the equivalent handload with 123-125 grain bullets when making this modification. The gas system of the SKS allows for more than enough gas port pressure to drive the piston back in the gas tube and cycle the action. This was designed this way to ensure absolute reliable functioning in extreme temperatures and conditions. What this modification does is simply to “vent” the gas after it has imparted enough motion to the piston to cycle the action with out driving it so violently back. As this modification vents the gas rather quickly the use of other than standard ammunition to regulate this cycling may cause malfunctions then when standard ammunition is used.

Attention cast bullet shooters: if you want to shoot really reduced loads with light bullets then regulate it with that. With Lee's 312-155 or heavier bullets I've found functioning to be fine with the conversion made for standard ammo. When medium burning powders (4895, etc.) are used and velocity is in the 1600 fps range I've not had any malfunctions. However, further venting was required when velocities of 1800+ fps with the 155 gr are used to make the ejection tolerable. I have one gas tube that I use especially for this load.

To accomplish this modification it will require the following tools:

15 drill bits from #45 (smallest) to #31 (largest)
Center punch
Small round file
Electric drill, cordless or hand drill if power is available at range.

Before going to the range remove the gas tube from the SKS and take out the piston. On each side of the gas tube center punch .22” back from the face of the gas tube. Center punch .35” back from the face of the gas tube directly on top. Now drill each with the #45 drill. You will now have 3 holes, one on each side and one on top. The hole on top will be slightly further back from the ones on the sides. Deburr the inside of the tube with the file lightly and reassemble the piston into the tube and assemble it back onto the rifle. Load up the tools, ammo and rifle and head to the range.

Fire 5 rounds and observe the ejection pattern and how violent the action cycles. Drill out the top hole only using one size drill larger at a time. Test firing with at least 3 rounds between each drilling. You must disassemble the gas tube each time to drill.

NOTE:
I have found on several Russian SKSs that with 2 side holes of #45 size and the top hole of #31 size they will lay the brass into and area of about 3 feet diameter about 6-8 feet to my right front when shooting from a sitting position. The recoil of the rifle is much easier to manage as the action is not functioning nearly so violently. A couple have required the 2 side holes to be enlarged to #40 drill bit size.

Several Chinese SKSs have required an additional hole .3” behind the top one. If the first three holes have not “vented” enough gas then drill this 4th hole. Again starting with the #45 drill bit and going one size larger with a test firing each time.

CAUTION
It is easy to get impatient and drill to much too quick without adequate test firing, DON’T!! You can’t put the metal back. New gas tubes are available at gun shows and out of Shotgun News for a reasonable price. If you’re not sure of your abilities get one first and try it before messing up the original. I have not messed any up using the above method. I have two extra tubes (original chinese tubes that fit the Russian with minimal fitting) that when used on my favorite Russian SKS will lay the brass almost within arms reach.
Hi Larry.
You did it for the use of more heavy bullets on the carbine of SKS?

[Old Goat Keeper]

Another thing that makes the SKSs work beter is to install a recoil spring buffer. You can read about that on Junior's site www.castbullet.com . It stops the jaring when the breach block flies back and hits the rear of the receiver.

Tom

[kristian55]

Another thing that makes the SKSs work beter is to install a recoil spring buffer. You can read about that on Junior's site www.castbullet.com . It stops the jaring when the breach block flies back and hits the rear of the receiver.

Tom
Hi Tom.
The return of SKS is not so great, that to set the buffer of recoil is my opinion.

[Larry Gibson]

Hi Larry.
You did it for the use of more heavy bullets on the carbine of SKS?

I originally did the modification for use with my standard jacketed load which is (in cases that take a LR primer) 22.5 gr of 4227 under a 123-125 gr j bullet. I wanted to lessen the ejection violence for 2 reasons primarily; 1st to be able to quickly find the brass for reloading, 2nd be cause the cases really ricocheted off the roof of the range I mostly use and are a distraction and possible hazard to shooters to the right of me.

After the success with the J bullet tube I found that with the 155 cast bullet and my favorite load of H4895 the ejection violence was back as the slower 4895 was giving more gas port pressure. So I got another tube and modified it specifically for the 155 gr cast bullet load. It turns out to be also good for the regular j bullet reloads as it just lays the brass off to the front right. However, with some milsurp it sometimes won't pick up a round from the mag or lock the bolt back after the last round. That's why I said to already have your loads picked out and modify the tube for them.

I've been going to experiment with just a series of #45 holes just along the top of the gas tube going straight back to see if that gives a sort of cushed release of the gas tube pressure. Just haven't got around to it yet.

Larry Gibson

[kristian55]

I originally did the modification for use with my standard jacketed load which is (in cases that take a LR primer) 22.5 gr of 4227 under a 123-125 gr j bullet. I wanted to lessen the ejection violence for 2 reasons primarily; 1st to be able to quickly find the brass for reloading, 2nd be cause the cases really ricocheted off the roof of the range I mostly use and are a distraction and possible hazard to shooters to the right of me.

After the success with the J bullet tube I found that with the 155 cast bullet and my favorite load of H4895 the ejection violence was back as the slower 4895 was giving more gas port pressure. So I got another tube and modified it specifically for the 155 gr cast bullet load. It turns out to be also good for the regular j bullet reloads as it just lays the brass off to the front right. However, with some milsurp it sometimes won't pick up a round from the mag or lock the bolt back after the last round. That's why I said to already have your loads picked out and modify the tube for them.

I've been going to experiment with just a series of #45 holes just along the top of the gas tube going straight back to see if that gives a sort of cushed release of the gas tube pressure. Just haven't got around to it yet.

Larry Gibson
OK.
Now clear me.
Openings are done for the decline of gunpowder gases.
It can reduce work of recurrent mechanism.
P.S.
For correct extraction of cartridge it is necessary to do following
The left part of the rasp 90 degree angle as shown in the picture
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac169/kristian555-A/-1-7.jpg
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac169/kristian555-A/-4-90.jpg
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac169/kristian555-A/-3-90.jpg
http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac169/kristian555-A/-2-90.jpg

[Larry Gibson]

That looks like a decent mod but my Russian is too nice to do that to it, at least I think so anyways. If I had a shooter chinese or Yugo I might just do that. However, The 155 gr bullet fits my needs in the gas gun. Actually the 150 WFN GB bullet does equally well in the bolt gun and is deadly at 1850 fps, especially if cast soft and HP'd. Doesn't feed in the SKS though.

Larry Gibson

[kristian55]

That looks like a decent mod but my Russian is too nice to do that to it, at least I think so anyways. If I had a shooter chinese or Yugo I might just do that. However, The 155 gr bullet fits my needs in the gas gun. Actually the 150 WFN GB bullet does equally well in the bolt gun and is deadly at 1850 fps, especially if cast soft and HP'd. Doesn't feed in the SKS though.

Larry Gibson

Hi Larry.
Yes,actually 1850 fps sufficiently for the defeat of purpose weight 100 kg..

http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac169/kristian555-A/17b0caec.jpg