View Full Version : Lubsizer?
emorris
08-18-2010, 11:52 PM
First off Hello Everyone.
This is my problem. I am in need of advice in deciding to get a lubsizer. As most know I have been trying to get my boolits straightened out for my 9mm and 38special mostly leading. I have reached the conclusion that my current lube just isnt enough (LLA). Both calibers are the regular lube groove. I first tried the TL molds but didnot like them so I parted with them, but not before I got the LLA. I tried pan lubeing (push through method) but got poor fillout on 9mm and would not stick to 38s. The lube seemed to be a hard lube (red), but dont know what kind it was. Will lube hardness effect its ability to stick in panlubing? Also would 50/50 work good with this method (it was suggested to me)? The lyman 4500 kit at cabelas cought my eye at $169, but my 9mm has a beveled base and have read on this forum that some people have had trouble with the beveled base and lyman 4500. Also what top punches would work with the lee 9mm 120gn tc and 38 140gn swc? I am lucky that both guns will chamber amd function with a .358 boolit. I have plenty time now and like the cost effectiveness of panlubing and sizing with push through dies. I guess my real question is what type of lubes work with panlubeing
MtGun44
08-19-2010, 12:05 AM
50-50 works well with pan lubing. Put the boolits base down in a very shallow pan and
pour in or melt in enough lube to cover the top of the lube groove(s). Let cool and cut
out with a cake cutter - make this from a fired case in the same caliber that is loose enough
to slide over the cast boolits freely. Sharpening the neck with a case chamfering tool helps,
chamfer the outside only. You want a fairly soft and sticky lube for cake cutting, of course
even a hard lube is soft at the right temp so if you watch and wait as it cools you can catch
it a the right hardness.
After the first batch, put boolits into the holes in the lube and remelt it with a torch or
heat gun and go again.
The Lyman and RCBS lubrisizers are great for the moderate quantity person or if you change
boolits frequently. The Star is good if you only lube one boolit design, setup is a bit fussy
esp if changing the same diam to different number of lube grooves. Lube is injected via
rows of holes that must match the location and spacing of your grooves. Plugging and
unplugging with lead shot is the control method. Kinda a PITA. If you have a single
lube groove in each boolit and are going to size to the same diam - the height adjustment
alone is not difficult, so a Star would be good. Also a Star injects the lube on a stationary boolit
so the BB is irrelevant. Multipel lube grooves are far fussier with a Star than single. Of course,
if you dedicate a set up sizer die (about $25-35 each) to a particular design, you will only
plug the holes once and set up the height each time. Much easier but can get expensive
if you have a bunch of boolits. Stars are the speed champ, tho.
BB is a minor PITA with Lyman or RCBS types but some make up a custom ejection pin
with a epoxy ring to fit the BB. Wiping it off with a fingernail is OK, too.
Bill
white eagle
08-19-2010, 12:21 AM
I pan lube with Caranuba red fro White Label Lubes it really helps to use one of those flexable baking pans
give than a try it has really hepped me [smilie=s:
XWrench3
08-19-2010, 07:37 AM
well, from a guy who has tried almost every way possible, other than a lube/sizer. it seems to me that going to a lube/sizer is like going from a Ford Pinto to a Cadillac. all of the other methods, are a PITA. i have been doing them to long, but i can not afford a lube/sizer right now, so i have to continue with the other methods. one thing you may want to try is adding a tablespoon of lyman moly powder to each bottle of LLA . it helps my handgun loads not to smear the barrel with lead so bad. if you keep your rifle velocities modest, it will even work with them. but for anything fast, i still paint on (or dunk) melted boolit lube and run them through my lee sizers. then clean off the excess by hand with a paper towel. like i said, a PITA, but you gotta do what you gotta do!
Fly-guy
08-19-2010, 09:31 AM
"if you are having issues with accuracy from your 9mm, try not sizing your boolits and double dip them with the jpw/lla/mineral spirits boolit lube."
For the complete post go to: "Accuracy problem in 9mm solved", hope you will find it useful.
HammerMTB
08-19-2010, 12:21 PM
If you are convinced you must have a Lube-sizer, the 4500 is a good choice. I have a 450 and lube my rifle boolits with it. The small problem of BB boolits is just that- small, and easily overcome.
I use LLA thinned for all my pistol needs. If LLA is failing you I suggest you look at why that might be, as I save a lot of time lubing with LLA over the lube-sizer. If all you shoot is pistol in cast, you'd save both time and money to keep it simple with LLA.
JMHO.... [smilie=6:
pistolman44
08-20-2010, 11:43 AM
I bought a new Lyman 4500 sizer press recently because I got tired of the mess from pan lubeing. Buy all your sizer dies new. I bought a used .358 from swapp'n sell'n section on here and my sized bullets with a gc are sizeing .359 to .359.5. I have to re-run them thru my Lee push thru sizer to get them to .358. This press is a joy to use over pan lubeing, I cast for 4 different calibers.
emorris
08-20-2010, 11:23 PM
I finally had success with lubing my 38s. I tried the cookie cutter method mt gun44 suggested. I lubed in my silicone baking pan and used a 40 s&w case that I cut the head off to remove the boolits. I had good fillout with all boolits. I then ran them through my lee .358 sizer. The 40s&w case was a little too large and I could not get a 38 case to work it was too small even after I flared the mouth a little. I know that I read in a post that a fellow member make the cookie cutters,but I could not find the post. The 40 s&w seemed short so I need somthing a little longer. I still used the same lube ,but I was thing about making some. The Darrs seemed easy to make with paraffin wax, stp, and vasaline (already have ingrediants). Just wondering how it would hold up to 9mm and 38s. My 38s are plinking rounds for my 642 s&w airweight as it is not rated for +p and I worry about pressure ( I want to prolong the life of the pistol). While on the subject I have been using sr4756 in my commerical cast 158 swc, but Im running out of it and I stumbled across a cowboy action load using 3.1-3.5gn of bullseye with 147gn cast. My lees 140gn swc are dropping around 145gn. I could not find the pressure level for this loading, but manual listed 15,500 for 3.6gn bullseye with 158gn swc. Anybody have any expierence with bullseye and 38 special? I really miss my lyman manual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:-(:-(:-(
Doby45
08-20-2010, 11:34 PM
Good ole Ripley, TN.. I graduated from Dyersburg High, dated a chick from Ripley. I use Bullseye almost exclusively in 38 special cause I was given a pound for free and I need to use it up. Since most charges are around the 3-4gr area it will take me a few months. :) I am on business in Detroit but when I get home I will get my Bullseye recipes for 38SPL fer ya.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.