need advice on lee mold

[bsmith]

i bought a 2 cavity mold for 9mm and 40 which works great, then i bought a 6 cavity 9mm and 2 cavity for 380, the 6 cavity i nothing but problems the screw plate would not cut the lead and i broken the handle and pivot on the plate then the guide pin fell out and lost it . I called lee and they shipped out new pieces free of charge and told me to use anti sieze and i did. (I have some bull plate coming) the anti seize helped that issue. now all the screws are backing out every 5th or 6th time the 380 mold never lines up when i close the first time i have to keep closing till it lines up and those bolts keep backing out also. What am i doing wrong the first two molds i had works great so i wouldnt think i'm doing something wrong. Lee has good customer service and have sent free replacement parts no complaint at all there

[462]

Bsmith,
Welcome.

Lee moulds usually require some initial TLC and user-provided quality control. Look for Lee-menting, in the stickies. Once the bugs have been exterminated, they produce excellent boolits.

[2wheelDuke]

I'm a total newb about casting, but I'd usually loctite a bolt that keeps backing out.

[HORNET]

Loctite doesn't hold very well at the ~400 degrees that mold blocks usually stabilize around...

[2wheelDuke]

Loctite doesn't hold very well at the ~400 degrees that mold blocks usually stabilize around...

I was thinking maybe the red kind that you have to heat the hell out of to break loose. I'd guess it's still holding some at that temp where the blue or purple would be done for.

[mroliver77]

Which bolts? I have few problems with the Lee molds but have a few years of experience with them.The SPRUE plate pivots should be able to be tightened enough to hold it as there is room for the wave washer to do its work. The cam opener bolt has a lock nut and if that does not hold I adjust it then peen it tight. If you are breaking the cam unit you are waiting too long to cut the sprues. I preheat my molds on a cheapo hot plate and get no too cold boolits at the start of casting.
I have a soft bronze brush I use to clean and debur molds with. It seems to really help the 2 cavity moulds. Take a close look at the alignment pins and corresponding sockets for burrs or junk that stop it from closing well. I set mine on a flat plate of steel before closing so as top align them. The guide pins MUST be lubed to work or they will gall and stick and be stubborn to close perfect.
All I can think of for now, hope this helps.
Jay

[Shiloh]

Install a set screw. Do a search. There is a lot of info on LEEMENTING a LEE mold as well. Greatly improved two problem molds.

Shiloh