Air in my lube sticks....help!!

[Python]

I have Star Sizer and make my own lube sticks, solid ones. I use 1" PVC like a lot of people, melt the lube and pour it in. What is the trick to stoping the lube sticks from getting cracks or small hole down the center when it hardens. I know I can just melt more and fill them in but it seems that I still have air in the sticks.

This is a pain because as you lube the air pops out through the die and gives a broken lube band.

Or, is there something else causing the broken lube bands as I lube. I ask cuz I can go for a while with perfect bullets and lube band then all of a sudden it goes to sh!t and I have to double lube them to get a full lube band....

Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks.

[Edubya]

Welcome aboard, Python.

I had the same thing when I first started using the Star. I learned that I had to use a little heat and keep the lube head tension a bit tighter. There is a learning curve to go through with the Star. I don't use the lube sticks anymore, I pour directly into the lube tube.

Good luck,
EW

[Doby45]

Me too, I pour directly in and have gotten no lube farts from my Star.

[Bill*]

Me too, I pour directly in and have gotten no lube farts from my Star.

HeHeHeHe

[fredj338]

Welcome aboard, Python.

I had the same thing when I first started using the Star. I learned that I had to use a little heat and keep the lube head tension a bit tighter. There is a learning curve to go through with the Star. Good luck,
EW
I still use hollow sticks that I have from my early Lyman, works fine, just add a bit more pressure. Maybe because I use a bit harder lubes w/ heat, it's just not a big issue.

[Python]

Welcome aboard, Python.

I had the same thing when I first started using the Star. I learned that I had to use a little heat and keep the lube head tension a bit tighter. There is a learning curve to go through with the Star. I don't use the lube sticks anymore, I pour directly into the lube tube.

Good luck,
EW

Thanks everyone for your help. I do use heat and the air assist unit and it is a balancing act getting both in sync. I'm still wondering about the lube sticks though, do you buy or make your own. I ask because when I make my own I still seem to get the cracking in the center as they cool. I can't seem to figure this part out. So, If I'm getting the cracking when the lube dries in the lube molds, how will this be different when I pour directly into the sizer? Either way, I still get cracks, which is causing trapped air, thus giving me the lubing problem. Correct?

Thanks again,

[Doby45]

If you pour it in and then put the plunger on top it will not allow the voids in the middle. The voids in the middle are from the cooling and contraction of the lube. If it is "airtight" when it starts to cool the worst it can do is pull the plnger down, atleast thats how I see it.

[geargnasher]

In my estimation, most of the commonly used boolit lubes lose about 10-15% of their volume when turning from liquid to room-temperature solid. The shrinkage is pretty dramatic. If you pour your moulds halfway full and let that harden, then 1/4 more and let that harden, then finally top them off, you will have less of a problem.

I think Doby's suggestion of putting the plunger in before it cools is a good idea, as is pouring directly into the lube reservoir and skipping the stick shtick. I melt my lube in a 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup either in the microwave or on a candle warmer.

Gear

[Python]

Good point Gear. I agree with you, 10-15% sounds about right. In my quest to make Magma's sizer work better than intended I'm always tinkering with the little things.

I have actually already started what was suggested. Pour a little at a time and let harden. So, maybe I should be asking a candle guy, how do they pour the large piller type candles so perfet and not get the shrink issue. How do they keep the cracks from forming?

Also, How does this "work around" we all keep doing get any easier on the full auto machine from Magma? The problem is air, not the sizer...right? Air either enters the system through the lube sticks, or opening the system and dropping in a stick, either way it comes back to air in the system. So, how is it handled on the large machine. Makes me wonder if it's an issue in the big houses?????

Not that I'm going to go and drop 7 grand to make things easier but there has to be more to it.......It would be awesome if we could just open the tube, drop in a stick, close and size......

Either way I make it work, I'm just looking to simplify it for all of us.....less time and effort is better......

Thanks ,

[No_1]

I don't use heat on mine. I do use LAR's BAC hollow sticks because that is what I have. I just put them in the turn the pressure up to about 60 PSI. I have no problems with air pockets even though the sticks have a hole right smack dab through the middle when they go in.

I am not a engineer when it comes to the Star sizer but when I add a stick then put the plunger back there is air between the plunger and lube. Once the pressure is added and the plunger moves down to the lube I am fairly sure there is not a air pocket between the plunger and lube because when I pull the plunger back out there is lube on the bottom of it. It might not seem possible but could be that the trapped air can seep out past the plunger even thought the lube cannot. If that is the case then that could explain why I have not problems with air pockets.

R.

[Casting Timmy]

I made somethng out of PVC pipe to extrude my lube. It also makes it easier to just fill one things and then use a drill to extrude out the sticks as needed.

[No_1]

Can you post pictures?


I made somethng out of PVC pipe to extrude my lube. It also makes it easier to just fill one things and then use a drill to extrude out the sticks as needed.

[cajun shooter]

Python, I use the 6in long PVC for my molds of lube. I have the weep hole blocked on the Star. The shrinkage of the lube is a natural process that can't be changed unless you injected the hot lube into the mold under pressure. I just wait until the top has formed over and sunk and then top it off. It's not that big of a problem when done this way. I also use alot of Pam inside the PVC before pouring. They slide out very easy this way. Once in a while my machine will release some air and I just answer it and we continue on.

[Python]

Python, I use the 6in long PVC for my molds of lube. I have the weep hole blocked on the Star. The shrinkage of the lube is a natural process that can't be changed unless you injected the hot lube into the mold under pressure. I just wait until the top has formed over and sunk and then top it off. It's not that big of a problem when done this way. I also use alot of Pam inside the PVC before pouring. They slide out very easy this way. Once in a while my machine will release some air and I just answer it and we continue on.

Thanks for all of your help. I do about the same, as a side note I use silicone spray rather than Pam. It offers great mould release and has no sent.

Cheers!!

[cajun shooter]

Yes I understand silicone spray but it does not smell as good as my cooking spray with "olive oil" I forgot to tell you about that. Ha!! Ha!! Take Care

[Casting Timmy]

Here's some pictures of an older lube extruder I made....I listed some instructions with the post if you want to try making one. There's a couple tricks I found that make it easier.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=77040