Do you clean the LLA off of loaded bullets?

[tbonifie]

I've always done this with MOBUCO bullets, but tried it with my tumble lube bullets and they all turned a very dark grey color after tumbling.

I know, it's cosmetic, but I'm a bit OCD...

Any tips? wiping them off by hand is a real pain! ;-)

[RobS]

I haven't seen or heard of any other way and for that reason I moved on from TL after a short while even though I liked the ease of it. I also decided to cast for rifle and high end 454 Casull loads so the TL didn't provide what I needed for lube characteristics.

I would imagine though that if a person used a rag with mineral sprits or something that will assist in loosening up the alox it would help a great deal; still a PITA but maybe a bit easier.

[AzShooter]

Mineral spirits on a rag works better than tumbling. I always get dried media on the tips of the bullts when tumbling LLA. Not the case when using my Star and normal lubes.

Now, if I use LLA bullets I shoot them as they come from the press and don't worry about them.

[BarryinIN]

I'll use mineral spirits on a paper towel or rag. If the rag stays wet it only takes a quick twist or two and it's clean, but I only bother to do if I am going to be showing the cartridge(s) to someone. Sometimes it's hard to see the details of the bullet shape with LLA on it, even if it's really thin.

[Linstrum]

I think it is one of those things that is totally up to you, but here is my take on it.

Okay, first things first, I have been using Lee Liquid Alox (LLA) for about the last 25 years by putting around 25-50 boolits (depending on size and shape) in a sandwich size zip lock plastic bag, adding about a tablespoon or so of LLA, blow into the bag to expand it so it has a lot of air in it, close it, and then roll the semi-inflated bag around in my hands so all the boolits get coated from top to bottom with the LLA. I re-use the bag until it gets a hole in it by adding a few drops of petroleum distillate like kerosene or mineral spirits inside the bag, then adding more boolits and fresh LLA. After a minute or two of rolling them around I dump out the boolits on a paper plate and put them out in the sun or a warm place to dry. Where the boolits are in contact with the paper plate it changes the amount of coating a little but not enough to affect lubrication going down the barrel. I shoot the Lee 180 grain .309 gas check boolit in my Garand and other .30 caliber rifles lubed this way and I've never had a leading problem develop at about 2000 fps.

Now, getting to your question, no, I don't remove the lubricant from the exposed part of the projectile but I make sure they don't pick up dirt. Wiping the lube off does not cause any trouble that I can see but it sure can prevent problems if a cartridge gets dropped in the dirt. Keeping ammo clean is pretty important.

The reason why I don't clean off the exposed part of the projectile is because even though the part of the projectile that doesn't touch the bore does not need to be lubricated, I have found evidence IN RIFLES and long barrel pistols like the Ned Buntline that some of the lube transfers to the forward part of the bore and does some good because the lube in the lube grooves gets used up as the projectile goes down the bore and a little extra lube doesn't hurt. I don't know what the exact mechanism is, but I suspect lube is thrown off by centrifugal force after the projectile picks up enough rotational velocity to do that – we are talking about 2,400 turns per second or 144,000 rpm at exit and that is A LOT of centrifugal force! Another possible explanation is that the tremendous acceleration G-force works in concert with centrifugal force and causes a small amount of lube to flow back to the contact pinch-point between the projectile and the bore. Whatever the mechanism, some of the lubricant apparently transfers from the projectile's nose to where it does some good, so I leave it on. I definitely wipe all lube off the cartridge case because it will build up in the chamber and cause all sorts of problems there. But if you don't want any lube on the exposed part of the projectile go ahead and wipe it off, I think it is one of those things that is totally up to you.


rl816

[Rocky Raab]

Other than cosmetics, I cannot fathom a reason to clean LLA off the noses of loaded ammo.

If they are really sticky, you are loading them before they dry, or are using WAY too much LLA. If they are only slightly sticky, just dust them with mica or talcum powder before you load them.

They shoot perfectly well either way.

[exile]

LLA in a Garand. That is amazing. Glad to hear that it works for you.

exile

[1Shirt]

Have to admit that mule snot on the nose of the blt looks like ****, but like somebody said, if it doesn't pick up grit, probably no big deal. Have never picked up any down range that had mule snot on the nose, so have to presume that it may lose some going down the tube, but probably the majority on impact with the burm.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[Freightman]

Target doesn't care! Deer wouldn't know if it is clean or not! why waist time?

[Echo]

Mineral spirits on a towel - place loaded rounds in center of towel, grab both ends and see-saw for maybe 30 seconds. Takes ALL the excess lube off. I always do this with my boolit-loaded rounds.

[BCB]

I use mineral spirits also...

But, I do it before the boolit is put in the case. That stuff on the tip of the boolit will mess a seating plug up and it becomes a mess overall...

Now let me clarify...I don't use LLA anymore! The reason is above. All the boolits I lubed with it, I put in a plastic container of mineral spirits and let them soak a few days. The LLA is off...

As far as loaded ammo, as mentioned, the towel and mineral spirits...

Or just dip the back end of the boolit into the LLA and don't put any on the front of the slug...

Ah heck, that is too much work...

Regardless...

Good-luck...BCB

[tbonifie]

mineral spirits isn't a bad idea, might try that.

And I also like the idea of removing the lube before seating to keep from gumming up the seating die, but I do think that's too much trouble. The reason I want to tumble is just that, no real effort required.

I got some new, clean corn cob today, we'll see if that does the trick without making them look like charcoal... might even throw a few tablespoons of mineral spirits in with it. If nothing else, it helps with all the dust...

[stang68]

I don't wipe mine down after loading but I use the 45/45/10 recipe(Alox/JPW/Mineral Spirits and they aren't the least bit sticky after drying for several hours.

[BCB]

[QUOTE=tbonifie;I got some new, clean corn cob today, we'll see if that does the trick without making them look like charcoal... might even throw a few tablespoons of mineral spirits in with it. If nothing else, it helps with all the dust...[/QUOTE]


I will be quite surprised if tumbling the boolits in cleaning media will remove the LLA. That stuff sticks and turns solid in most cases...

Still,

Good-luck...BCB

[Cowboy T]

I don't bother removing it, it doesn't hurt anything. My rounds work just fine.

[Gohon]

I would advise you not to put loaded rounds in a tumbler.

"The coating on the powder is called "deterrent coating" and there are several chemicals used, one is composed of a chemical called DNT (Dinitrotoluene). They are applied to the kernels of powder in varying degrees to control the burning characteristics of the finished product. Tumbling removes this coating and can boost chamber pressures to beyond safe limits"

Might want to read these first.....

http://yarchive.net/gun/ammo/tumble.html

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f30/tumbling-live-ammo-12816/

[Gee_Wizz01]

I wipe the LLA off the noses of some of my pistol ammo that I use on our tactical "general purpose" ranges. These ranges are very sandy and I started noticing some fine grit on the noses of some of my 9mm ammo that I tumble lube. For the majority of my ammo I don't bother, but I dont want that fine sand in my 9mm AR or my pistols. I use a little mineral spirits on a paper towel and the LLA comes right off, and leaves the boolit shiny.

G

[tbonifie]

I should have taken before/after pictures! I can still take after pictures if you like!

I tumbled several hundred .45ACP rounds in new corn cob with a few tablespoons of mineral spirits for a couple of hours. I was expecting the same results you predicted, but what I got are shiny clean bullets that look fantastic! I couldn't be happier.

The combination of mineral spirits and corn cob worked like a charm! :-)


I will be quite surprised if tumbling the boolits in cleaning media will remove the LLA. That stuff sticks and turns solid in most cases...

Still,

Good-luck...BCB

[tbonifie]

I've tumbled live rounds quite a bit and never had any trouble. I understand some people think it's risky, that's gonna be your personal decision. The magazine article referred to in your first link is the only report I've ever read of an actual problem, I doubt 2 hours in my tumbler is going to cause a Kaboom, but if it ever does, I'll come back here and repent!

I'll leave this here as a single piece of evidence, certainly not comprehensive, but I think it's a pretty good example:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=303242&page=1




I would advise you not to put loaded rounds in a tumbler.

"The coating on the powder is called "deterrent coating" and there are several chemicals used, one is composed of a chemical called DNT (Dinitrotoluene). They are applied to the kernels of powder in varying degrees to control the burning characteristics of the finished product. Tumbling removes this coating and can boost chamber pressures to beyond safe limits"

Might want to read these first.....

http://yarchive.net/gun/ammo/tumble.html

http://www.firearmstalk.com/forums/f30/tumbling-live-ammo-12816/

[Gohon]

Interesting article but far from what I would consider a controlled test. No pressure test equipment used with before and after control rounds. All just sight and feel testing which leaves a lot of big holes in my mind. Tumbling live ammo might be safe but I think I'll heed the manufactures warnings of don't do it. Kind of like driving a car without seat belts .....drove thousands of miles and never had a injury.......until I had wreck.

[XWrench3]

i do not clean it off. i do not see the need. i tumble lube, leave them sit two days, the toss them into the can to load later. then i just shoot them. never, ever, had a problem.

[Centaur 1]

I don't wipe mine down after loading but I use the 45/45/10 recipe(Alox/JPW/Mineral Spirits and they aren't the least bit sticky after drying for several hours.

After I tried this recipe I'll never go back to plain LLA. I don't notice any difference in how they work, both ways work well. The mixed recipe dries so well that it doesn't pick up any dirt, it's more like a dry film lube. Best of all it works. I use a Lee aluminum mold for 158gr SWC .38's. Before the mold gets to the proper temperature the boolits look good but they drop undersized, it takes a while for the mold to expand from the heat and drop the proper size. A hot mold will drop a .358" diameter boolit, but they start filling out completely when they still measure .356". Even with these undersized boolits I don't get any leading, and the coating is dry enough to carry ammo in my pocket without picking up any lint.

[dogbert41]

Where does one get Mineral Spirits? Is kerosene pretty much the same thing?

[waksupi]

Where does one get Mineral Spirits? Is kerosene pretty much the same thing?

Any hardware store. Usually right next to the kerosene! :D

[whisler]

If they don't have "mineral spirits just ask for "standard paint thinner" (not lacquer thinner). Standard paint thinner = Mineral spirits.

[troy_mclure]

Where does one get Mineral Spirits? Is kerosene pretty much the same thing?

as you live in a hot area, you may not need to add the mineral spirtis.

ive got a batch of 45/10/45, and a batch of 50/50.

both keep liquid in my garage, but the 45/45/10 takes longer to dry.

[Denver]

I take my loaded rounds and dump them in an old sock with a little splash of mineral spirits on the foot part. A few seconds of working them around and they're shiney clean. Learned to do this years ago when I got 22 ammo through our DCM club. It was coated in cosmoline or some such preservative and was almost impossible to use before removing it.

[44man]

My take is to just dump the LLA in your tailgate or under the fenders and use a boolit lube on boolits.
I use soft lubes like Felix and the only time I wipe them is if rounds are carried in a pocket. Even when hunting my rounds are in a little carrier that keeps them clean.
Alox is not a boolit lube no matter what you do with it, whatever else you use with it is better.

[Shiloh]

No.

Shiloh

[Elkins45]

Alox is not a boolit lube no matter what you do with it, whatever else you use with it is better.

Wow, somebody needs to tell the NRA. They've foolishly been promoting the stuff as a bullet lubricant for years.

[82nd airborne]

I clean them when using them in a magazine, just so that my feedramp and mag doesnt get all gunked up. other wise i leave them alone

[Alex Hamilton]

tbonifie,
You are right. Removing LLA from bullet noses is a matter of appearance and it has no effect on accuracy. Having said that I also like my ammunition to look good, but the time and effort required is just too much, so I don't bother.

Alex

[noylj]

Nope, I tumble lube all my cast and swaged lead bullets. You only need a little Alox and there is no reason to waste time wiping it off. Of course, if you typically drag your rounds through the mud and sand, you may want to wipe them off, after the exposure.
There is no part of reloading that should be a pita. If there is, it is probably a step that is of no real benefit.