Lee 6 Cavity Mould Handles

[riverwalker76]

I read somewhere that Lee 6 Cavity Mould handles will fit RCBS and Lyman Dies. Is this correct?

[Dale53]

In general, the Lee handles are about .020" too thick for RCBS moulds. If you have a milling machine you can easily mill off the .020". Some have filed that much off with good results.

I haven't tried Lee handles on my Lyman moulds.

Dale53

[mooman76]

Yes they fit Lyman SC and DC fine as is. Lyman 4c has a thinner channel and it will not fit that. Like stated it is a little thick for the RCBS but you can grind or use a belt sander easy enough to make it fit.

[riverwalker76]

Ok thanks. It's a big price difference for the Lee vs. the RCBS & Lyman mould handles. That's why I was wondering.

[JIMinPHX]

The Lee 6-cav handles fit my Lyman 2-cav molds just fine, right out of the box. I don't have any RCBS molds.

I have both Lee & Lyman handles. I actually find the less expensive Lee handles more comfortable to use.

[462]

On a Lyman 4-cavity mould, the Lee handles are much easier to manipulate than the Lyman nut-cracker handles.

[Dale53]

On a Lyman 4-cavity mould, the Lee handles are much easier to manipulate than the Lyman nut-cracker handles.

I certainly agree with that. However, as a matter of interest, Lyman's new four cavity handles are made like the Lees.

Lees are still MUCH less expensive. I'm getting tired of always having to change mould handles. So, every time I buy a new mould I buy two sets of Lee handles. One of these days I'll catch up.

It's interesting to note that when I started out I was lucky to be able to afford ONE pair of handles for ALL of my moulds. 'Course, I only had a couple or three moulds...

Dale53

[RKJ]

The bolt holes on the Lyman 4 cavity mold are larger than the LEE holes and the steel is much thicker than the channel (at least on my recent acquisition. They do fit right onto a 2 cavity I have. They are a very good product for the price.

[462]

RKJ,
Yes, some modification is required. I'm not a machinist -- far from it -- just used a grinder to get to a rough thickness, a file for the finished dimension, and a drill bit to enlarge the screw holes. A fun project.

The RCBS mould modification requires less material removal, and the screw holes do not need to be enlarged...a quicker project.

[RKJ]

RKJ,
Yes, some modification is required. I'm not a machinist -- far from it -- just used a grinder to get to a rough thickness, a file for the finished dimension, and a drill bit to enlarge the screw holes. A fun project.

The RCBS mould modification requires less material removal, and the screw holes do not need to be enlarged...a quicker project.


462 (and all) I apologize if my post came across "snooty". I tried the grinder and file thing also, but mine didn't turn out so well. :) One side will close fine but the other side doesn't. The holes work great (that part was easy) but I got impatient and wanted to try it out so I went ahead and ordered a set of Lyman handles for it. I think I could probably make them work and I haven't thrown them out yet. But I think I'm done (for awhile) buying molds, my wife is starting to give me "the look".

[cajun shooter]

Lee handles can be modified to fit most molds that are sold. The Rcbs fit does require more filing to be done as they are too thick to began with. You only have to file about 1/2 of the length so it is not that bad. The one thing that all Lee handles need is JB Weld for the wooden handles. They will start to slide off on the first use at times. Mix separate batches for each handle so that it does not set before you are done. I put enough on the metal that it comes out the end. I use this to build a small mound at the end. Don't forget the sprue plate handle also. I have several pairs that have been modified and used for over two years with no problems.

[Dale53]

I find that ALL mold handles will loosen with use. I have examples from Lyman, RCBS, H&G, and Saeco but I have more Lee handles than the others.

I tried various cements and some of them worked and some did not. I finally started drilling right through the ferrule and handle and using a small bolt with a nut (#5 bolt) to secure the handles. This worked well but looked a bit amateurish. Recently, I went to the local Fastenal store and bought a 100 count bag of "roll pins" also called "tension pins" in 3/32" x1" size. Now, I drill a 3/32" hole through the ferrule and handles (all three on the Lee), carefully support the handle on the vise and drive a roll pin through. Roll pins are sized to use the same drill size as the listed size (diameter) of the pin. Then I grind the ends flush. It makes for a very nice installation and I guarantee that the handles will NOT loosen. If the handles don't loosen, then they seldom ever break. They are good for many, many years and tens of thousands of bullets.

I have handles that were not modified loosen and break the first or second time you use them. That makes for an NOT SO HAPPY, CAMPER!!

Dale53

[CiDirkona]

I find that ALL mold handles will loosen with use. I have examples from Lyman, RCBS, H&G, and Saeco but I have more Lee handles than the others.

I tried various cements and some of them worked and some did not. I finally started drilling right through the ferrule and handle and using a small bolt with a nut (#5 bolt) to secure the handles. This worked well but looked a bit amateurish. Recently, I went to the local Fastenal store and bought a 100 count bag of "roll pins" also called "tension pins" in 3/32" x1" size. Now, I drill a 3/32" hole through the ferrule and handles (all three on the Lee), carefully support the handle on the vise and drive a roll pin through. Roll pins are sized to use the same drill size as the listed size (diameter) of the pin. Then I grind the ends flush. It makes for a very nice installation and I guarantee that the handles will NOT loosen. If the handles don't loosen, then they seldom ever break. They are good for many, many years and tens of thousands of bullets.

I have handles that were not modified loosen and break the first or second time you use them. That makes for an NOT SO HAPPY, CAMPER!!

Dale53

Would you happen to have pictures of this setup?

[Dale53]

I do not have any pictures, as yet. However, I believe that I will do a "picture story" of a "How to" series. It will take me a week or so due to the holidays.

Dale53

[starreloader]

Dale you are right about using the 3/32" tension pins....

All of wood on my handles, 7 H&G, 6 SAECO and 14 Lee have been securely fastened with JB Weld and 3/32" tension pins and will never come loose... Learned this from an elderly gent 30+ years ago and it has been working for me ever since then.

[Elkins45]

If you decide to modify a set of Lee handles it's important that you grind the excess thickness off the BOTTOMS of the handles rather than the tops. Gravity causes the blocks to bear down on the upper face of the tongs, so it is important they remain at the same height to keep the blocks aligned. Minor variations between tongs on the bottoms shouldn't matter since the blocks don't bear on them.

[wallenba]

I have one on a 2 cav SAECO also, thickness is perfect, it just needed the holes opened up a bit. The SAECO handles are over forty bucks!