28 pound springs in Blackhawks

[Heavy lead]

OK, after reading a lot of posts (mainly from 44man) about the benifits of heavy hammer springs for Blackhawks, and being disappointed in slow lock times and sometimes not too good of accuracy from some of them I ordered 10 Wolf 28 pound springs. I've changed out 5 revolvers now, 2 44's and 3 45's, wasn't sure which extra power springs to buy, they offer a 26 too, but went with the 28. The last two weeks I've shot all five of these and am very happy, it has helped accuracy a lot. They're a little tough to get on, the first one, I swore I never would get on, but got my technique down and they make a heck of a difference. I had installed lighter springs on all these in the past and had bought into the idea this was the thing to do, falsely. I can report not problems so far using these. Just be careful when you put them on.

[S.R.Custom]

Indeed. Now if only someone would make a hammer notched such that it shortens the throw, thus shortening the lock time even more. You know... like a Dan Wesson. ;)

[44man]

They sure are tough to get on! :mrgreen:
I usually go 26 # on mine.

[WARD O]

Make a simple tool - take a small piece of scrap metal and cut a slot into it - the slot needs to be a wide enough cut to slide over the hammer strut. Or use a kitchen fork if it works for you.

Place the bare hammer strut in a vise so it's tail is sticking straight up - drop your spring over the strut - set the mainspring seat on top of the spring and use your tool/fork to push down on the seat until you are able to insert a pin to retain the spring.

ward

[2shot]

I bought a 26# and 28# for my Bisley. I put the 26# on first to see how it would work thinking that I would put the 28# on and see if there is any difference. Well after getting the 26# on I swore I would only change it again if I had to, those buggers are tough to get on.

It did cut down on lock time though. I never understood the guys that put on lighter springs and claimed they got better accuracy. They are either full of fudge, don't know what a good group is or they have a much steadier hold that 99% of the guys out there shooting revolvers.

2shot

[2shot]

Make a simple tool - take a small piece of scrap metal and cut a slot into it - the slot needs to be a wide enough cut to slide over the hammer strut. Or use a kitchen fork if it works for you.

Place the bare hammer strut in a vise so it's tail is sticking straight up - drop your spring over the strut - set the mainspring seat on top of the spring and use your tool/fork to push down on the seat until you are able to insert a pin to retain the spring.

ward


Good tip with the fork, thanks

[ShrnShndl]

Where did you buy the 28# springs? Thanks

[2shot]

www.gunsprings.com Wolff Springs

[Changeling]

They sure are tough to get on! :mrgreen:
I usually go 26 # on mine.



I didn't say a word !:mrgreen:

[Rico1950]

http://www.cylindersmith.com/Ruger-spring.html
This may help!

[Heavy lead]

I drilled a small hole just big enough and deep enough to hold the hammer strut in a piece of old hard maple butcher block then use a huge pair of needle nose pliers I can get both hands on, open them enough to slide over the strut and use the notch in them where the wire cutters are to cradle the spring, compress the spring using this technique, then with my strong hand hold it down when I take my left hand and slide the spring retainer and a small allen wrench into the hole forget that little damn pin. Once I got this down, it isn't too bad. You can buy those 28 pounders for a 10 pack for 19.99 from Wolff. Maybe I don't need them, but what the heck, I like 'em.

[KevMT]

OK I'm intrigued. Although I love my blackhawk I have never been a fan of the long lock time on it. How much (if any) will putting in the heavier springs
change the trigger pull?

Kev

[44man]

OK I'm intrigued. Although I love my blackhawk I have never been a fan of the long lock time on it. How much (if any) will putting in the heavier springs
change the trigger pull?

Kev
It is NOT the lock time! It is the impact the primer needs for accuracy.
The same thing holds true for a S&W, weak springs ruin accuracy.

[WARD O]

It is NOT the lock time! It is the impact the primer needs for accuracy.
The same thing holds true for a S&W, weak springs ruin accuracy.

It is also the lock time - you can't tell me that faster lock time does not lead to better accuracy! Having the gun fire at the exact moment you will it to because of target alignment is definately a plus!

I put one of the Ruger Old Army main springs on my 45 BH and I can certainly tell the difference on the hammer. My first day at the range also suggested that I was shooting the gun better than in the past. Time will tell......

Ward

[Heavy lead]

OK I'm intrigued. Although I love my blackhawk I have never been a fan of the long lock time on it. How much (if any) will putting in the heavier springs
change the trigger pull?

Kev

I don't notice much of a difference in trigger pull, maybe a might heavier, but also it seems crisper. The main thing I have noticed is when you inspect your primers after firing they are much more consistant, no evidence of week hits, however it does in fact increase lock time too, it's a win win. Now I've got to figure out how to fix the Redhawk.

[ghh3rd]

Ok, this is very interesting. I had to see what this was all about -- the link that RICO1950 provided was very helpful. I also had to look up lock time...
The time, measured in milliseconds, from when the trigger is pulled until the firing pin strikes the primer.


I wonder what's already on my new SBH. Now that I've had my SBH for a while I may try this to see if it helps. The best I've been able to achieve fairly consistenly is 2" groups at 50 yds with my best boolits/load and an Ultradot, but would love to see if this makes any difference.

By the way, does the heavier spring increase wear on anything?

Randy

[Bass Ackward]

By the way, does the heavier spring increase wear on anything?

Randy


Yes. Most of it is normal and will adjust and stop. The one thing that you need to monitor is, and I can't think of the name for it right now, but it's the safety piece that raises up to allow the hammer to push the firing pin in.

Ruger seem to get the HT wrong on these every so often and what happens is that you slap it harder with your new super duper, harder spring, but this piece indents on the other side where you can't see. So what happens is the firing pin doesn't go through the frame as far as it used too.

These are cheap and easy to replace. Problem is that it is difficult to see with it installed even if you remove the rear sight. I just replace them whenever cleaning if necessary. If it hasn't indented after say 1000 rounds, then chances are the HT is correct and it won't.

The other thing is a safety issue that you have to get used to the increased hammer tension if you shoot / hunt in the cold. Especially if you are older or have smaller hands as your thumb can slip off the hammer before it goes into notch. More so with the Bisley hammers, but just be aware. Quite the surprise on a cold morning.

[44man]

Hammer fall time is so little different you will never say it is more accurate. We are not shooting BR.
Primers NEED a certain impact to be consistent and that counts more then lock time.
A weak spring hitting a primer is slowed and the dent being formed slows lock time even more but the compound will not work the same as when it is hit hard and fast.
If the hammer only moved 1/8" and you hit the primer with different force, the hard hit will be more accurate even if the measured speed is the same.
Primers are made for impact not stalled pushes as the cup is pushed in.