S&W Extractor Alignment Pins

[fourarmed]

The caretaker at our gun club brought me his K-22, saying the double action pull was balky. I looked at it and found that the two alignment pins under the extractor at the rear of the cylinder were...GONE. This produced some rotational play in the extractor, causing the hand to bind up occasionally. I don't think this would be noticeable when the cylinder is loaded, but it is when it is empty.

Best I can tell, the pins are 0.055" diameter or a tiny bit more. I think I could Loctite in some drill rod or music wire of the proper size and make it work. I don't have a copy of Kuhnhausen's book, but I suspect the pins are staked in at the factory. If somebody who has the book could take a look and let me know, I would appreciate it. I know the factory would probably replace them for free, but it would cost him the best part of a c-note to send it to them.

[S.R.Custom]

First a stupid question-- this isn't one of those new square extractor revolvers, is it? If not...

Historically, the extractor was 'located' in relation to the chambers, and then the holes were drilled through the extractor into the cylinder. The pins were then press fit (slight interference.) This arrangement makes for a somewhat "custom" extractor/cylinder fit, and a PITA when fitting a replacement extractor.

I'd question why the pins are gone... maybe this isn't the original extractor? Pin placement/fitment may be an issue if not.

[S.R.Custom]

I don't have a copy of Kuhnhausen's book, but I suspect the pins are staked in at the factory. If somebody who has the book could take a look and let me know, I would appreciate it.

Kuhnhausen is curiously silent on the topic of extractor issues, other than to say it may have to be replaced if the timing notches are buggered, and that the pins may have to be replaced "if damaged." Beyond that, he does not elaborate.

[fourarmed]

It is a 17-2 with the traditional extractor. The holes are present in both cylinder and extractor, and I pushed a #54 wire gauge bit through the extractor into the cylinder in both holes, but not both simultaneously.

Edited to add: Thanks for looking that up. I will see if I can scare up another #54 bit and see if both sets of holes line up at the same time. If so, it shouldn't be too much of a problem to fix.

[MtGun44]

take it to Warren.

Bill

[fourarmed]

Good idea! I will give him a call tonight.

[Mk42gunner]

Pins are available, I don't know what they would cost. If you decide to do this yourself order several extras, they bend real easy when installing; which means you get to pull the pin and try another one.
One of the Air Stations I ran the armory on had a bunch of well used (Okay, worn out) S&W Model 10's for security to drop, um I mean carry. We had a lot of trouble getting new pins to stay in the cylinder, never tried locktite on them though. I finally fixed the problem by calling the Weapons Station at Crane, Indiana and getting new Model 15's.

Robert

[Char-Gar]

I have bought those pins from Smith and Wesson and they are not expensive. Locktite can be used to keep them in place.

[fourarmed]

Thanks for the info, guys. I miked two #54 bits, and used a dremel cutoff wheel to make a couple of pins from the larger of the two. Put them in with a little red loctite, and it works perfectly. I can see from the cylinder face that they were originally staked in by a hollow-pointed punch.

[Char-Gar]

Another good reason never to throw away broken or worn out drill bits.

[30calflash]

I had the same thing happen on a S&W model 28. Ordered the pins from the factory and locktited them in. Seemed to be okay the last time it was fired.

[cajun shooter]

When you tighten the extractor you should have empty cases in at least every other cylinder. If not it will cause the pins to break. That is one thing we were taught at S&W revolver school