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leadman
07-10-2010, 12:11 AM
I discovered that all of my Lyman molds (more than a dozen) had a problem with the threads for the sprue plate locking screw. This is the 10-32 screw in the side of the mold that is supposed to keep the sprue plate adjusting screws from moving.

The holes look like they are threaded all the way thru the hole, but if you remove the sprue plate and adjusting screw and try to turn in the locking screw it may not go in very far.
All the threads in the holes were not finished. I believe a tapered tap was used and did not cut the threads to full diameter. I used a bottom tap to finish the job and now my sprue plate screw does not move once the locking screw is tightened.

So if you have trouble with your sprue plate screw turning check to see if the locking screw will turn all the way in. If not finish what Lyman should have done.

94Doug
07-10-2010, 12:44 PM
There was also a brief article quite a few years ago in Handloader where the screw was ground flat where the contact point of the set screw contacts it.

Doug

dragonrider
07-10-2010, 02:13 PM
I too have found several mold where the screw is limited in it travel, retapped and problem solved, I also drop two or three #7 or 9 lead shot into the hole before installing the screw to prevent damaging the threads of the sprue plate screw.

Ben
07-10-2010, 11:58 PM
Looks like more of " Lyman's Work, Unfinished "...........

leadman
07-11-2010, 11:06 AM
Yes, Lyman should be completing the tapping. Just like they should finish the sprue plate holes so they have a sharp edge, not a straight hole so the sprue does not want to fall out.
I have filed a flat on a couple of my sprue plate screws also prior to tapping the holes.
The locking screw does not bear on the threads of the sprue plate screw. I had mixed results with the lead in the locking screw holes. Had it melt and then had to pick it out .

Hardcast416taylor
07-11-2010, 11:43 AM
How hard can it be to just grind off the nose taper of a tap to make your own bottom tap? We used to make bottoming taps from broken tapered taps all the time. Lack of imiganation I guess.Robert

casterofboolits
07-11-2010, 12:02 PM
+1 for what Dragonrider said, not only does it protect the threads on the sprue plate pivot screw, but prevents the set screw from backing out during casting.

montana_charlie
07-11-2010, 12:56 PM
I also drop two or three #7 or 9 lead shot into the hole before installing the screw to prevent damaging the threads of the sprue plate screw.
Lead shot works fine under the setscrew for a reloading die, but the die never gets heated.

I use a small piece snipped off of a strand of copper, aluminum, or brass wire for the same purpose on bullet moulds.
Somehow, it doesn't make sense (to me) to be using a metal that may melt in the hole.

CM

Mal Paso
07-19-2010, 11:32 PM
Lyman Has Fixed The Problem. On my Mold made August 09 the mold arrived with the sprue plate screw already frozen and it snapped off when I backed off the set screw and adjusted it. And it was such a good job an easy out wouldn't work. Drill Press, Dental Pick, and a tap to size the threads.

The Mold Handles I got with another mold loosened up so much after 2 sessions so I pulled the pins, removed the loose wood handles to find strips of paper shimming a sloppy hole. I can't read Chinese but I don't think the language on the paper was strong enough. Aluminum Tape fixed the problem.


Mal

Echo
07-20-2010, 02:13 AM
Lyman Has Fixed The Problem. On my Mold made August 09 the mold arrived with the sprue plate screw already frozen and it snapped off when I backed off the set screw and adjusted it. And it was such a good job an easy out wouldn't work. Drill Press, Dental Pick, and a tap to size the threads.

The Mold Handles I got with another mold loosened up so much after 2 sessions so I pulled the pins, removed the loose wood handles to find strips of paper shimming a sloppy hole. I can't read Chinese but I don't think the language on the paper was strong enough. Aluminum Tape fixed the problem.


Mal

Hmmmm... Mal Paso, in Carmel, CA... Hmmmmm...

So how is Clint?

Byron Cromwell
07-20-2010, 01:41 PM
Mal:
Were you joking about the Chinese paperwork in the Lyman mould? Don't tell me they're moving manufacturing to China too. I was wanting to buy some more Lyman moulds. I guess I'll have to shop SAECO or RCBS from here on in...
Byron

Mal Paso
07-22-2010, 12:17 AM
Hmmmm... Mal Paso, in Carmel, CA... Hmmmmm...

So how is Clint?

Reasonable

Mal Paso
07-22-2010, 12:28 AM
Mal:
Were you joking about the Chinese paperwork in the Lyman mould? Don't tell me they're moving manufacturing to China too. I was wanting to buy some more Lyman moulds. I guess I'll have to shop SAECO or RCBS from here on in...
Byron

The Molds Were USA and yes a bit small and tapering. I thought the Handles were USA too until I took them apart and found Chinese writing on the shim paper. It used to be law that imports had to be marked. I think it unlikely Lyman is importing Chinese Newsprint to put in American Handles.

Byron Cromwell
07-27-2010, 08:25 AM
The Molds Were USA and yes a bit small and tapering. I thought the Handles were USA too until I took them apart and found Chinese writing on the shim paper. It used to be law that imports had to be marked. I think it unlikely Lyman is importing Chinese Newsprint to put in American Handles.

Well, I guess that's it for me buying Lyman moulds.
Byron

Wayne Smith
07-27-2010, 12:50 PM
So far, any new mold I buy has been and will be from one of the makers on our Vendor's list.