Lee Alignment Pins

[OutHuntn84]

Just so we are all on the same page. I am talking about the Lee 2 cavity rod and groove alignment pins. My problem is when I close the mold they don’t align. I have to bump the handle bolt as I close it for the pin and grooves to settle correctly and have to check it closely because they will be off just a little bit and I get a funky boolit. [smilie=b: Any thoughts?

[theperfessor]

Put the bottom of the mold on a flat surface such as a block of wood and then gently close the mold. It will prevent a lot of wear to the mating alignment surfaces and prolong the life of your mold.

[Moonie]

I had the same issues, I found lubing the pins works wonders, I started with boolit lube but bullplate and or Mihec's mold lube work great for it. When properly lubed they should close properly.

2 stroke oil may work as well but I do recommend the bullplate lube.

[Wally]

Put the bottom of the mold on a flat surface such as a block of wood and then gently close the mold. It will prevent a lot of wear to the mating alignment surfaces and prolong the life of your mold.

Yes, this is an excellent method when using any aluminum bullet mold.

[MtGun44]

Bul Plate lube, see Bullshop ad at bottom of page, magic elixir for molds.

Do a search on it and you will see.

Bill

[Dale53]

Properly lubing the Lee two cavity mould alignment surfaces with Bullshop Sprueplate lube makes ALL the difference!

Dale53

[Echo]

Lee 2-bangers CAN be noxious, but the above will cure a lot. Before my ministrations, my Lee 2-banger carbine boolit threw a range of boolits from 112 to 115 grains, some with the most marvelous fins.

[jmsj]

OutHuntn84,
Bullplate lube is absolutely the best lube I have found, it seems to solve a lot of problems.
Sometimes the nut and bolt that holds the handles together gets to much slack in them. Just last weekend I was having the same problem w/ a Lee 429-200-RF, I tightened up the handles and lubed the pins again w/ Bullplate and the problem went away. If the handles are loose just tighten them enough to take the play out of them, not enough to make it difficult to close and open the handles. Hope this helps. jmsj

[mooman76]

What the others said. Plus if you are tapping the mould or handle hinge rather when you open to make sure the bullets fall out quick like I do just tap it again when you close it. I just got in the habit of doing it and I don't even realize I do it any more, I do it so much. I isn't always neccissary but it helps make the bullets more consistant as sometimes you are moving ata fast pace and don't even realize it isn't quite closing all of a sudden.

[462]

What the perfessor said.

[geargnasher]

Bullplate or polydimethylsiloxane spray.

The problem with what the Perfessor said is that Lee two-cavity mould blocks aren't machined together on the bottom as they are on the top, and there is often a large step between the mould halves. If this is the case with your particular mould, setting it on a flat surface to close the blocks is likely to cause misalignment, not correct it. This is the voice of experience here, I've had the same issues and tried the same solution there, but only good lube ever really solved the problem.

Once the Lee moulds get worn from lack of lube on the alignment surfaces they're pretty much junk, so I do it on all my new ones before they are ever used.

Gear

[Suo Gan]

What the others said. Plus if you are tapping the mould or handle hinge rather when you open to make sure the bullets fall out quick like I do just tap it again when you close it. I just got in the habit of doing it and I don't even realize I do it any more, I do it so much. I isn't always neccissary but it helps make the bullets more consistant as sometimes you are moving ata fast pace and don't even realize it isn't quite closing all of a sudden.

That's what I do.

[theperfessor]

Hey geargnasher -

I guess I'm fortunate, none of my Lee molds are as bad as you describe, but if they were I'd have to agree with you. Of course lube almost always helps to make machinery work better, and bullet molds are no exception.

[deerslayer]

Bullplate is a lubricant of sorts and while it will do wonders when a mold is working properly yours obviously is not.

Bring the mold together in alignment and gently put in a vise clamp below the handles preferably in a smooth jaw vise with just enough pressure to allow you do whats next. Then take a flat chisel and just above or below the handles on both sides you can displace a little aluminum with your hammer and chisel. Not to much the mold still has to be able to float and should not get tight. Go a little at a time and try it it is easy to do more. But this will help alot with your alignment issues.

Also make sur your mold faces (the inside surfaces) and alignment pins are good and clean with no debris on them before clamping. You can clean them up with some brake cleaner and a toothbrush for normal dirt and grime or you may have to gently scrape for other deposits depends on mold condition.

[leadman]

If you have a Lee mold that the blocks are not even on the bottom there is an easy solution.
I used several rubber bands around both handles to keep them closed.

Either use a file to flatten the bottom surfaces or a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and run the old over it to flatten the surfaces.

I prefer the sandpaper as aluminum can clog a file easily.

Then rest the mold on a flat surface to close them. I do this with all my molds. I have a piece of quarter round molding on the edge of my casting bench to rest the mold on and to keep any lead from running off the edge of the bench towards me.

[geargnasher]

If you have a Lee mold that the blocks are not even on the bottom there is an easy solution.
I used several rubber bands around both handles to keep them closed.

Either use a file to flatten the bottom surfaces or a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and run the old over it to flatten the surfaces.

I prefer the sandpaper as aluminum can clog a file easily.

Then rest the mold on a flat surface to close them. I do this with all my molds. I have a piece of quarter round molding on the edge of my casting bench to rest the mold on and to keep any lead from running off the edge of the bench towards me.

Thought about that once because it used to bother me, but since I found good lubricants solve the alignment issue I quit worrying about it.

Gear

[geargnasher]

Hey geargnasher -

I guess I'm fortunate, none of my Lee molds are as bad as you describe, but if they were I'd have to agree with you. Of course lube almost always helps to make machinery work better, and bullet molds are no exception.

I figured that, that's the only reason I pointed it out, in case a newbie with moulds like most of mine tried what you said and got frustrated. Most of my Lee moulds have between a .015-.025" variance in block face on the bottom, plenty enough to jamb one up if closed flush.

I'll never forget my ME102 professor saying "Rule Number One with machines and other things: If it moves, it needs lubrication!".

Gear

[DLCTEX]

Leveling the bottom of the aluminum mould is easy with a belt sander, or as I do, with a disc sander.

[theperfessor]

I guess the main thing to remember, no matter what method you use, is to treat aluminum (or really any mold) gently when you close it and let the halves settle in instead of slamming them shut. Treat them with a gorilla fist and soon we'll read your posts about how crappy your mold is.

[462]

Gear,
I was taught that if it moves, salute it.

(By the way, Polydimethylsiloxane -- 945 -- works great!)

[StrawHat]

I guess the main thing to remember, no matter what method you use, is to treat aluminum (or really any mold) gently when you close it and let the halves settle in instead of slamming them shut. Treat them with a gorilla fist and soon we'll read your posts about how crappy your mold is.

Yep, pretty much applies to all moulds. I use a flat board under all my moulds when I close them, if it doesn't help, you couldn't prove it by me. I can vouch it sure doesn't hurt.

As for molds that don't align on the bottom of the two halves, I have never encountered one. But i have only been casting for about 40 years. They are undoubtabley moulds like that out htere but Ihave never seen one. Either fis it or send it back, your coice.

[OutHuntn84]

Thanks guys for all the replies! I'll give em a try soon and let yall know! But first I think I need to talk to my investor about buying some stock in Bull Plate Lube!!!! :bigsmyl2:

[Hang Fire]

Hand lapping the bottom of blocks can be done easily with 220 grit paper followed by 320 on a flat hard surface. Just do it with light pressure in a Figure 8 motion to come out true.

[Tazman1602]

Put the bottom of the mold on a flat surface such as a block of wood and then gently close the mold. It will prevent a lot of wear to the mating alignment surfaces and prolong the life of your mold.

+1 for Perfessor.

I take my Lee molds and have gotten in the habit of resting the bottom of the mold on the coffee can I use to drop the sprues into before I close it. Been so long I just do it out of habit and I'd actually forgotten about that part.

Lord I LOVE my BRP and NOE molds but for $20 Lee is a GREAT mold that does a good job if you treat them right.

Art

[cajun shooter]

462, If it is not green or breathing pick it up was something that will stay with me for the rest of my life. I found a silver dime at 0430 hrs so just how close was my nose to the ground.

[462]

Cajun shooter,
Just good night vision.