Bulk Supply of Set Screws for Moulds

[Byron Cromwell]

Does anybody know the dimensions for the small allen and flathead setscrews used to secure sprue plate screws for Lyman bullet moulds? I'd also like to get the longer screws for the Saeco moulds and RCBS moulds securing them to the handles. It need not come from a gunshop or mould supply house; I remember having over one hundred of these little things around before I gave them up to move and now I need replacements. It's easier to keep a bunch on the bench than to get down on your hands and knees to find the one you dropped, especially when you just got the mould up to temp...
As I remember, we purchased them from a fastener shop in town where I lived (That was Anchorage, by the way), but I need to know the size and thread dimension first. I don't need a complete rebuild kit, just some of the tiny screws.

Thanks in advance, Byron

[O9Tacoma4x4]

From what I read in a history post on this site, the thread size is 10-32 and its a shoulder screw. Heres a link to it, http://castboolits.gunloads.com/archive/index.php/t-40244.html

Another website I dug up is selling rebuild kits and they mention the size as 10x32tpi.
(Mods: It's not my intention for this to be a "plug" or an advertisement. I've got no affiliation w/ it whatsoever. I'm just trying to clarify a source and help a fellow board member in the right direction.)
http://50caliberforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=levergunreloadingcastingt&action=display&thread=755

Heres one more but with more information and picutres to dictate which screw is needed. (Mods: same note as above.)
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/specialty-screws/

Theres quite a few custom mold makers who post here. You may want to post a ad in the buying/selling section and put "WTB:" in the subject line. They'll probably give you a real good deal on a couple dozen. Hopefully this helps and gets you back up and running. Take care, Tacoma.

[Byron Cromwell]

Tacoma:

Thanks for the information as I cannot yet post to the swappin and sellin page yet. I have replied to a few, though. I am just now planning to purchase primers, a pot and a bench and I'll be all set to pour...

Byron

[beagle]

I think the last batch I bought from Lyman were $.25 each.

Think they're a 10-32 X 3/16" or maybe even 1/8". McMaster-Carr may have them in bulk if you need a bunch. The local hardware stores usually only stock 10-32 X 14" as the shortest./beagle

[deerslayer]

I think the last batch I bought from Lyman were $.25 each.

Think they're a 10-32 X 3/16" or maybe even 1/8". McMaster-Carr may have them in bulk if you need a bunch. The local hardware stores usually only stock 10-32 X 14" as the shortest./beagle

Buy the hardware store version for 3 cents and then screw it into your wire strippers that have the cutting dies and trim to length.

[JIMinPHX]

The big screw that holds the sprue plate on a 2 cavity Lyman mold is shown in the drawing below. The little set screw that locks it in place is a 10-32 x 3/16" cup point.

[94Doug]

I smell a group buy. Maybe Fastenal, have bulk screws made for each application.

Doug

[trap shooter]

drill your mold out to 1/4/28 1 inch set screw with 1/4/28 lock nut and spring washer then cast

[JIMinPHX]

I smell a group buy. Maybe Fastenal, have bulk screws made for each application.

Doug

My local hardware store has them for about $.025 each. McMaster Carr sells a box of 100 ASME/ASTM grade, black alloy type, for $8.91, part #91375A437.

You can specify actual manufacturers when buying them by the box from MSC, Copper State Bolt, or several other fastener vendors. I prefer Holo-chrome, Camcar or Unbrako, but will settle for Kerr when I need to (all made in USA).

Do you really need a group buy on that?

[94Doug]

I wasn't real serious.....

d

[leadman]

I discovered a couple days ago when trying in vain to tighten the locking screw on a Lyman sprue plate screw that Lyman did not run the tap into the holes on ALL of my Lyman molds.
This is the hole for the 10-32 screw. After removing the sprue plate I tried to turn the locking screw in farther than what it should go to lock the sprue screw. No go.

I used a tap to finish what Lyman should have done, now the screws go all the way to the end of the threads. Use a bottom tap if you decide to do this as the tapered tap may not cut threads deep enough.

I have 2 Lyman molds that are just a couple months old and these also were not tapped deep enough. It looks like they are but the threads are not full depth so the screw binds just as it touches the sprue plate screw.

Now my plate stay adjusted. Now have to finish the taper on several sprue plate holes so there is a knife edge on the hole instead of a straight area. This really helps the looks of the sprue on the boolit.

[Byron Cromwell]

JIMinPHX

Thanks for the information. It was just what I needed to know. I just need to find someone who can mail them to Peru ME, in case Home Depot or Loew's or Aubuchon's doesn't have them. I am getting set up to resume my hot lead hobby after a twelve year hiatus and just want to nail down all the nitnoid problems that may crop up.

[Byron Cromwell]

Beagle:

Thanks for the McMaster-Carr information. It might be better to get them from a supplier familiar with bullet mould setscrews that try to modify with a wire stripper. I don't have one of those. I also am uncomfortable with the idea of drilling out a mould to accept a different screw.

Byron