K frame cylinder swap?

[Doc1]

Hey folks. I recently acquired an S&W 15-3 Combat Masterpiece in very rough shape (very cheaply). This is one of the Katrina/salt water-damaged guns still turning up here on the Gulf Coast after five years. Interestingly, the salt water etching and deep pitting seems to be confined to the exterior of the revolver. The action and bore are still nice. It didn't have grips when I got it, but I had a nice set of vintage Safariland grips that fit fine. I'm slowly polishing out the pitting on the barrel and frame and think I can wind up with a decent-looking, serviceable revolver.

Here's my question: The cylinder is the roughest-looking part of the gun. I'd describe it as shootable-but-butt ugly. The pitting/etching is too deep for me to polish out or even turn on my lathe without making it too thin (IMHO).

Does anyone know what S&W model cylinders are a straight swap for the 15-3 to replace this bad one? I don't know much about S&Ws, but have fairly good amateur gunsmithing skills. I think I could time the new cylinder safely.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Best regards
Doc

[HeavyMetal]

Gun Parts AKA Numrich usually has 38 special cylinders in stock.

My number 29 catalog shows a cylinder asymbly for a 15-4 at $118.00 I believe that would be everything just pull the crane screw and swap parts.

think that's a simple plan but If you called they most likely have just the "bare" cylinder.

You can get exploded views on line, www.e-GunParts.com customer service 845-679-4867

Might cruise gun broker as well some times I see these available.

[Piedmont]

All of the .38 special K frame cylinders will be the same length (models 10, 15, 64, and 67).

[Dframe]

You can certainly get a replacement cylinder. But I assume you already know these are not "Drop-in" parts and will require fitting by a good gunsmith

[pietro]

SInce you would presumeably keep the original pawl & stop latch in the Katrina frame, a replacement cylinder should virtually "drop-in", provided you remove the fitted ratchet/star/ejector from the trashed cylinder, and install it on the replacement.

Since all the parts, excepting the edges of the stop latch notches in the new cylinder, are original and already fitted, any refit should be minimal or non-existant - cylinder endplay or end binding (arbor too long/short) being one.

.

[Doc1]

Thank you, gentlemen for all of the informed input. It's a great help!

Best regards
Doc