BFR 500 ejector rod housing screw sheared off!

[wellfedirishman]

So I was at the range yesterday shooting my BFR 500, with mild loads (Trailboss), when the following happened.

The screw holding the ejector rod housing to the barrel (the screw at the muzzle end of the ejector rod housing) sheared right off, leaving the stump of the screw almost flush with the barrel!

Someone else here had the same problem some time back:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=290

The screw was loctited in (red loctite) to avoid it loosening and flying out (happened a couple of times before).

I understand that this screw is the same as on a Ruger Super BlackHawk, so this should replace it: ($2 part)
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=614508

Question is, how do I cleanly remove the stump of a screw that is still in the barrel?

I don't want to damage the gun, just to cleanly get the old screw stump out. I understand that I will have to heat that section to break the old loctite.

The gun is lightly used, and 7 years old, so out of warranty. BFR only has a 1 year warranty, unlike S&W. Another reason my next one will be a S&W.

Is anyone here an expert in broken screw removal? Any advice would be appreciated!

The gun is still shootable (I used a brass rod the same diameter of the ejector rod to pop out the empty cases.) The gun shot great yesterday even after the mishap, I found a load that it really likes.

[lamina1982]

Im no expert but depending on screw size could you get a "screw out" for it? Drill small hole and use device to remove? Just a thought

[ebner glocken]

You may not have to heat that area. If you find a left hand twist drill bit smaller than the screw there may be enough heat generated to break it anyway.

btw the exact same thing happened to my BFR some time back and I'm simply keeping my eyes open for a bit.

Ebner

[wellfedirishman]

Thanks guys. That left hand bit is a good idea. It is not a functional problem (since I can still shoot it just fine), but I'd like to get it fixed in the future.

[Changeling]

I think your question should be , how can I get it out and replace with something that won't do this again.

[Phillip]

Use reversed drill bits too get it out. Also, use a small dab of nail polish remover to brake up the red Loctite first. Be warned though, it might discolor the stainless steal around the screw.

When you get a stainless replacement screw, get a harden one. Most screws that are use, are not harden, so they twist or break easily.

Also, watch what color you use with Loctite, Red is pretty nasty with small screws. Purple would be a better choice.

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/166733_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide_032010_Web.pdf

[dubber123]

It's only my personal opinion, but I would not rush to replace that BFR .500 with a S&W .500. The BFR goes "bang" every time right?... (hint, hint). If you can drill the screw, drill a small hole in the center, cut a straight section off the appropriately sized allen wrench, tap it in the hole, heat a touch to release the Red Loctite, (which can hold REALLY well), turn it out. Good luck.

[Changeling]

Use reversed drill bits too get it out. Also, use a small dab of nail polish remover to brake up the red Loctite first. Be warned though, it might discolor the stainless steal around the screw.

When you get a stainless replacement screw, get a harden one. Most screws that are use, are not harden, so they twist or break easily.

Also, watch what color you use with Loctite, Red is pretty nasty with small screws. Purple would be a better choice.

http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/166733_LT4985_Threadlocking_Guide_032010_Web.pdf

Thanks Phillip, I didn't know you could harden stainless steel. Is this something that can be done at home, hardening SS that is?

[Phillip]

Its the carbon content that makes them harder then standard stainless screws.

I should have said a harder screw and not hardened screw...meh

These guys have them......
http://www.smithfast.com/ssscrew.htm

http://www.towerfast.com/

[44man]

Screws will shear if they get loose, never if kept tight. Red Loc-Tite is not the savior and also fails.
To destroy Loc-Tite, find a brass or copper rod the size of the screw and heat it red hot, stick it on the broken screw and transfer the heat. It might take several times. Then maybe you can wiggle it. I use a dremel tool with a dental burr or tiny diamond cutter to cut a slot in the screw for a small screwdriver. They turn right out. Just enough for a screwdriver to bite.
You need to keep ALL screws tight at all times.

[Lloyd Smale]

I probably sheer one off two or three times a year. I even keep extra screws and even ejector rod housings, rods and springs for rugers in the parts box because they sometimes go flying and cant be found. 44man said it best. If there loose they will eventually break. I try to keep a screwdrive with me when i shoot and every 50 rounds or so give all the screws on a sixgun a check but i still get caught with my pants down once in a while. Ive also had new rugers do it after a few rounds and have found that some just never got a good enough bite on the threads to do anything about it. My montado had the barrel turned a bit to much and the screw from the factory was basicaly stipped in two threads. It didnt last 10 rounds and went flying. On really hard kicking custom guns alot of smiths will use hardened screws or put a pin in the barrel that enguages a hole in the housing to help keep it in place. But in most cases just keep it tight will go a long ways toward keep it on the gun.

[wellfedirishman]

Well I heated that spot with a gas flame directly on the hole, until it was quite hot to touch (to break the loctite) and I tried the reverse threaded screw remover, that did not work at all. It would not bite and grip the old screw.

I drilled out the center of the stuck screw with a drill press and tungsten bit (so it is basically a hollow), but cannot get the threads of the old screw out. I am afraid of drilling too deep and puncturing the barrel. That would be a real screw-up (no pun intended).

What about re-tapping the hole? A tap would cut the old screw threads out.

Can anyone please confirm what size tap is required for this screw? (the article below states 6/40, but is unsure)

This thread discusses the same issue, apparently it is a common problem.
http://guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=172

Thanks for your advice so far, it is appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem so I can put the gun back to full working order. However, I will just leave the ejector rod off in the future so I don't have to worry about this issue.

[44man]

Well I heated that spot with a gas flame directly on the hole, until it was quite hot to touch (to break the loctite) and I tried the reverse threaded screw remover, that did not work at all. It would not bite and grip the old screw.

I drilled out the center of the stuck screw with a drill press and tungsten bit (so it is basically a hollow), but cannot get the threads of the old screw out. I am afraid of drilling too deep and puncturing the barrel. That would be a real screw-up (no pun intended).

What about re-tapping the hole? A tap would cut the old screw threads out.

Can anyone please confirm what size tap is required for this screw? (the article below states 6/40, but is unsure)

This thread discusses the same issue, apparently it is a common problem.
http://guntalk-online.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=172

Thanks for your advice so far, it is appreciated. I'd like to fix this problem so I can put the gun back to full working order. However, I will just leave the ejector rod off in the future so I don't have to worry about this issue.
You need more heat on the screw itself. Don't heat the whole barrel. Brazing rod heated red hot and held on the screw should do it.
You can not tap it out with that piece still in there. If you have the drilled hole dead center you might be able to drill it larger to the size needed for the threading. Then you can work a tap into it. Cut a little and remove the tap to dump out chunks.
Normally, if the Loc-Tite is busted, just a small screwdriver in the hole you drilled should turn it out.

[Lloyd Smale]

I would think youve put enough heat on it to break the loctite loose. If it were me id try to heat the barrel and not the screw. Heating just the screw is going to make it expand and even harder to remove.

[44man]

I would think youve put enough heat on it to break the loctite loose. If it were me id try to heat the barrel and not the screw. Heating just the screw is going to make it expand and even harder to remove.
No Lloyd, heat is only to ruin the Loc-Tite. When cool, the screw should turn. Works the same with epoxy or super glue, sugar the glue to ruin the bond. The bond will not reform.
Now Elmer's glue or Tite Bond wood glue will melt and reset to full strength when cooled.