25-36 from 32-40

[Marlin Junky]

I've made 30-30 2.1" brass from 32-40 brass and it works out great in my old long chambered Marlin but I'm thinking about rebarreling a stainless 336 to 25-36 and was wondering if I can feed this thing with brass made from 32-40 brass. An intermediate pass through a 30-30 die wouldn't discourage me but I'm wondering what kind of stress I'd be applying to the 32-40 case in taking them all the way down to .25 caliber. BTW, 25-35 WCF brass is shorter than 25-36 brass.

MJ

[Green Frog]

If I were embarking on that project I would order the long .38-55 brass from Starline and never look back. I regard this as "basic" brass for all of the .30-30 head size rounds. JMHO, YMMV!

Froggie

[Marlin Junky]

I creased 38-55 brass taking it down to .30 caliber. 32-40 brass worked much better for that particular game.

MJ

P.S. I just had a thought that might kill this project... Do you guys think a modern 30-30 cartridge lifter will work with the 25-36?

I'd move this thread to the Leverguns section if I knew how... or is that something the moderators need to do?

[beagle]

From my experiences in making .25-35s from .30/30, I'd think the .32-40 route would be easier as well. Even making from .30/30s, you have to take it slow and watch for crimps./beagle

[Marlin Junky]

Beagle,

So what do you think about the cartridge lifter issue? Have you ever compared a 25-35 lifter to a 30-30 lifter?

MJ

[303Guy]

On the original question, I have sized a 303 Brit case (which is close to 32) down to 25, then back up to 311 then down to 25 and back up to 311 again! The trick is to anneal before starting and having the correct intermediate dies. (The case did need trimming to square up the mouth at the end of all that).:roll:

[beagle]

I re-barrelled a 336 and had no lifter problems with the .25-35 and didn't have to modify a thing. You do have to mill a flat under the barrel to give magazine clearance or it will bind.

I used a 1-10 Douglas and mine shoots from 85-120 grain bullets just fine. Had a lot of fun with that little rifle.

In reforming once fired .30/30s, I encountered a small problem. The chamber on mine is at minimum specs. Formed cases would not chamber as is. New .25-35 cases will. I had a tight set of .32-40 dies and used a flat shellholder that I call an anvil. I lubed the cases and drove them flush into the resizing die and then tapped them out with a 1/4" steel rod. This sized the base and after firing in my rifle I had no more problems. Just some of the old M94s out there had overgenerous chambers. These were once fired range pickups I was using.

Just a note on .25-35 and .32-40 brass. There's a lot floating around. Some is new and some is old. Even with the new (old batch) of .25-35, I had split necks. I annealed and that went away so be careful and know what you're getting. I bought this at a gun show and the guy had 5-600 rounds loose in a box and I made him a deal on it all./beagle



Beagle,

So what do you think about the cartridge lifter issue? Have you ever compared a 25-35 lifter to a 30-30 lifter?

MJ

[6pt-sika]

I had an 1893 Marlin in 25-36 .

Also used the slightly shorter 25-35 WIN brass with no ill effects !

When shooting the Hornady 117 grain RN or the Lyman 257325 the WIN brass worked great in the rifle I owned .

[Marlin Junky]

I think I will go for the -35 simply because it's simpler.

MJ

[beagle]

I've sure been happy with the one I built. The .25-35's the best little farm gun made. Light enough for varmints and heavy enough for small deer (no matter what some say). Stingy on lead and light on recoil and accurate.

Looks for a RCBS 25-100-FN mould. I see one occasionally. Have buckshot to HP one cavity and you got a going concern,/beagle

[6pt-sika]

Nevcer had a chance to try the RCBS 100 grainer in the 25-36 I had .

Did shoot quite a few Lyman 257325's and some Lyman 257312's . Also had a NEI 114 grain FN GC mold cut expressly for the 25-36 I had and never really gace it a complete evaluation before I sold the rifle off , then later the mold as well !