Sandpaper patching

[Randy in Arizona]

I have a .30-'06 with a really rough barrel.
I have been pondering reboring or rebarreling, but funds are somewhat tight lately.
At worst I might not improve it at all, but at best it might salvage the barrel into a shooter.

I have been reading the threads on firelapping with valve grinding compound on the exposed paper patching of loaded rounds and the thought occurred to me to ask about patching with sandpaper.
IIRC, I have sandpaper in 600, 1000, 1500 , and 2400 grits.

The stuff is rather thick but could be wrapped around a slug and loaded.

Thoughts?

Overkill or too much abrasive?


45

[303Guy]

Randy

I would hazzard a guess that sandpaper is not the best way to fire-lap a bore. My concern is that is would likely attack the sharp edges of the rifling, the very area one would want to preserve. I have cleaned out a rust roughened bore and exposed relatively sharp rifling (when viewed lengthways). My own guns vary from a new barrel to the insides of an old waterpipe. i.e. the entire bore was covered with a layer of scale. For those hard cases I used a brass 'fire-lapping' bullet. This bullet actually removed rust from deep pits. I have thought of a sandpaper patch but for the reasons I've mentioned, did not go that route.

I have one rifle with a badly rust pitted bore that after fire-lapping shoots j-words very accurately. The rust pits have not removed the original profile of the bore. The rust scaled bore on the other hand has had a layer of metal completely removed leaving an oversize bore. Fire-lapping with this 'fire-lapping' bullet removed that scale and also removed the sharp edges from the rust damage. This gun is now begining to actually shoot groups albeit with oversize paper patched boolits. (And not exactly target grade groups).

So, I would suggest not trying the sandpaper patch idea. (Normally, I am all for different ideas).

This is the 'fire-lapping bullet'.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/MVC-565F-1.jpg

The bands up front are there to guide it into the bore and are sized to closely fit the throat. The last deep groove holds the abrasive and is seated within the neck (one doesn't want to get abrasives inside the chamber and action).

Here is a similar one, ready to be fired. It's only different in that it doesn't have a long stalk to the first guide band.

http://i388.photobucket.com/albums/oo327/303Guy/PigGunFire-LapCartridge.jpg

[pdawg_shooter]

The sandpaper i am aware of would not form to the rifling, and would in fact remove the rifling. Best to stick with paper and lapping compound.

[docone31]

I agree.
The binder in the grit will remove the rifleing before the rust.

[Hardcast416taylor]

It would work great.....if you are trying to make a smooth bore .30-06 shotgun!!!Robert

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

You can buy "firelapping "J" b------- from such places as Cabelas's, or make your own from Boolits and the proper type of lapping compound.

Check out Veral Smith's info at LBT - Lead Bu------- Technology and he can set you up with everything you need.

Just don't talk about "Boolits" with Veral!!!!!!!!!!!! Not the way to go, with him it is Bullets or nothing!

Crusty Ol'Coot:groner:[smilie=b:

I do like his molds, just rec'd a new one last week, but you need to watch you terms to stay on his good side.

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot:lovebooli;)