Marlin 336 firing pin

[Denver]

Howdy to all;

New guy here. I just picked up a Marlin 336 RC in 35 Rem that I hope will be a great cast bullet shooter. I'd like to replace the firing pin with a one piece pin. My question is; how to remove the extractor collar to get at the pin holding the front part of the 2 piece pin? Is there a tool needed like the one for Mauser extractor collars? Also where to get the one piece pins? Brownells?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ron

[Rrusse11]

Howdy to all;

New guy here. I just picked up a Marlin 336 RC in 35 Rem that I hope will be a great cast bullet shooter. I'd like to replace the firing pin with a one piece pin. My question is; how to remove the extractor collar to get at the pin holding the front part of the 2 piece pin? Is there a tool needed like the one for Mauser extractor collars? Also where to get the one piece pins? Brownells?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ron

Ron,
In a word, DON'T! Trust me,,,,,,,. Whatever the "advantages" are,,, the alternative is NOT good. Ez to end up with a premature detonation. Lucky for me it was 'only' in a 25-20. There is a VERY good reason for that 2 piece firing pin, it works, and is safe.
Cheers,
R*2

[Denver]

Hmmm! That's interesting, I'll take it into consideration. I would still like to remove the firing pin to clean and inspect it. I've experienced a few misfires with it. The front pin seems to be stiff and dragging in the hole. Rust maybe? The hammer spring seems to be strong enough.

Ron

[StarMetal]

My best friend had a Marlin in 35 Rem and there were times where it wouldn't fire. Could try a couple times on a round and nothing, no dent at all on the primer. Then it would start working again. The rifle was kept very clean and well taken care of. Never did find out what it was that it would occossionly do this.

Joe

[NVcurmudgeon]

I had the same problem in a new Marlin 1895 as Joe's friend did. The local Marlin authorized warranty gunsmith replaced the rear firing pin, and it never missed a lick again. Add me to the list of those who like firing pin safeties on leverguns. Take a look under the lever of a Winchester 94, there is a little pin that unlocks the firing mechanism only when the lever is fully closed. I have even learned to like the crossbolt safety on my Marlin (new) 1894. Even if I prefer to use the half-cock safety most of the time, the crossbolt makes unloading less nervous-making.

[StarMetal]

Bill

We talked about this before and that was unloading back through the loading gate. In my levers I have been able to do it with not too much effort or trouble. I remember Finn said he had a, I believe 45-70 Marlin, that wouldn't cooperate that way. I do mine that way because I got fed up with all the scatches and nicks on the brass and bullets by feeding working them through the action.

Joe

[Denver]

Well I figgered out how to remove the extractor without any damage, Clamp the bolt in a bench vice(with padding of course), take 2 flat bit screw drivers and push against the ends of the collar firmly. It will pop off easily. To replace it, lay it on the bolt on the bench with the extractor finger lined up with the slot and give it a rap with a suitable driving device.

I removed both sections of the firing pin and found that the ends that come together when the action is closed show some peening that may be from heavy use or dry firing.
Anyway I cleaned everything up, polished the pins, put it back together with no improvement. It's still misfiring. I'm going to order new parts and go from there.

Ron

[Finn45]

Denver,
Put some more tension to the hammer spring; easy to do with side cutting pliers by "cutting" between the coils. Don't over do it and do it around the spring in order to prevent it from bending. Small amount makes wonders; I've lengthened mine and then shortened and lengthened again and it still works. I've been through bad misfiring due to weak spring and heavy levering due to too stiff spring; all with this same spring. If You see that misfired primer is pushed down in the primer pocket then it's not short pins but the weak spring. Presently mine is so that lowering the hammer with thumb hammer pushes pins completely in and stays leaning against bolt recess. At weakest it wasn't able to do that. Additionally I have weakened the rear pin leaf spring some, but not much beacuse it's safety device also. Joe; my Marlin unloads through the gate like Yours; I posted a video about it some time ago.

[Rrusse11]

Well I figgered out how to remove the extractor without any damage, Clamp the bolt in a bench vice(with padding of course), take 2 flat bit screw drivers and push against the ends of the collar firmly. It will pop off easily. To replace it, lay it on the bolt on the bench with the extractor finger lined up with the slot and give it a rap with a suitable driving device.

I removed both sections of the firing pin and found that the ends that come together when the action is closed show some peening that may be from heavy use or dry firing.
Anyway I cleaned everything up, polished the pins, put it back together with no improvement. It's still misfiring. I'm going to order new parts and go from there.

Ron

Ron,
If the junction of the two pins is showing peening signs, it may well pay to check the pin for portrusion length through the breech face.. Might be a tad short, giving a light hit. Some carefull releiving of the taper may give you some additional length on the business end of the whole firing pin assembly. I like to have the front pin clean/clearanced so that it will rattle back and forth if you shake it fore and aft. Also the peening may be dragging on the top of the locking bolt, check that for wear or burrs as well. As Finn points out, hammer spring can be critical.

www.marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm (http://www.marauder.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm)

Here's the best site I've found on the Marlins,,,,,, well worth a read.

Cheers,
R*2